Mark Maras

There is the possibility that your boss loves Zs too. If he does, he may want to go with you.

On the subject of pilot bushing (bearing) removal, here's the strangest and possibly the most effective method I've ever tried. I couldn't remove the pilot bearing from our RX 7. Small puller, regrinding the tips, nothing worked. An old mechanic friend asked me if I tried bread. I immediately asked, "What the hell are you talking about? He said stuff bread into the bearing center and get a bolt slightly smaller than the bearing center. Smack the bolt and add more bread. After repeating those two steps three times the bearing slid right out, to my amazement.

If you have any oil pan debris left, put a magnet on it to see if it's ferrous or not.

If I wrote a Z book it would contain all the dumb things I've tried and failed at or worse injured myself than helpful tips. Hmm. maybe combining both subjects, like, when you blow the caliper pistons out with air, after the first one comes out, DON'T stick your hand in the caliper to block air from escaping out of the open cylinder. A hand is an effective method to facilitate the removal of the other piston but the rest of the brake job is very slow and painful.

These carbs (SUs and Hitachis) usually run well with the mixture (nozzle) screws down 2 1/2 - 3 turns down from the top. An easy way to check your fuel level in the float bowl is to remove the domes and pistons, turn your mixture (nozzle) screws down 9 1/2 turns from the top. Your fuel level should be at or near the top of the nozzles.

Or lightly coat the part with grease, press it onto the gasket material and cut off the unstained parts.

I've used a cereal boxes, scissors and a hole punch for paper to make gaskets similar to that. I coat the gasket with a bit of oil and assemble. I've never had one fail.

Remove the dome and piston. The fuel level should be 3/8" down below the carb bridge. Turn the jet adjustment nut down 9.5-10 turns from the top position. The fuel level in the bowl should be at or near the top of the nozzle at 9.5 turns down. when you're satisfied with the float level return the nozzles to the appropriate height. Usually 2 1/2 - 3 turns down.

A boy on the front porch playing a banjo should be your first warning but barring that, Nothing ventured, Nothing gained. If you don't ask, you'll always wonder. Many of these old Zs are still sitting around because the owner loved Zs just like us. That's the common ground for a good conversation.

Personally, I hope you stay and continue to post.

The problem with the real news is the "Official Story" the Gov. doles out to our trusted news sources. Most of it is probably true, as far as it goes, but it's what they're not sharing with us that is the real news. The "Powers That Be" (pick your favorites) do control the news, real and fake and as history has shown, the real and fake news often came from the same sources. A lie by omission, is still a lie. Power tends to corrupt and absolute power corrupts absolutely. Lord Acton

I'd go with the welding reps advice.

Gorgeous nether region porn.

Go for it Cliff. Kathy got Moderna and had very mild symptoms. I got J&J a couple of weeks ago and my symptoms were very similar to a two day hangover.

Older people do it because they grew up with carbs that had accelerator pumps and automatic chokes that didn't work very well when they got old.

A big pipe wrench and a floor jack on the end of the pipe wrench is what I used after trying to be gentle with the fill plug. It chewed up the plug a bit but it came out.

It was a fun day in , almost a Deja Vu moment meeting Cliff face to face. Instant good vibes. Thanks again for the ride from the airport. IMHO, Nissan was pretty brave or foolish for placing that beautiful original Z next to the new Z. Is there anyone one the face of the earth that thinks the new Z looks anywhere as good as the original?

Too bad they didn't solve it by installing a cross-flow head. SUs on one side, exhaust on the other.

I'd guess it's a used replacement.

I'm impressed but I'll stick with a chainsaw for something that tough.

I'd start by disconnecting the two linkage rods with the plastic ball ends and operate the three linkage assemblies from the gas pedal up to the carbs independently. Hopefully you'll be able to isolate the problem. As an alternative, if you haven't lubed all the pivot points yet, you could start at the pedal and start oiling all the pivot points one at a time until you find one that may be binding.

Looking at the pics it looks like the clutch disc lining is worn down to the tops of the rivets. I see what I think is a few shiny rivets. If it's down to polishing the rivets, it's time to replace it along with the release bearing and pilot bushing. And, "as long as you're in there" having the flywheel resurfaced or even lightened.

They can be a multi-tasker. I've used mine to pull stubborn shrubs and laurel hedge and lift a riding mower to clean-out the deck. Now I'm considering mods to convert it into a firewood splitter.

I have a H.F. engine hoist that folds up and doesn't take up much space. Years ago I pulled and reinstalled my 240 engine using two 2x4x8s, garage rafters, a one ton cable jack, jack stands and the Z jack. I unbolted everything under the car, lowered it, hooked up the cable jack to the engine, finished unbolting the topside, lifted the engine a bit and rolled the car back as I lifted the engine. It sounds like a PITA but it all went well.

Does the linkage operate smooth without the springs?