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Carl Beck

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Everything posted by Carl Beck

  1. Hi Mike: Just so there is no misunderstanding. The "70 Poster" that you posted at #38 - is NOT the poster I was talking about in the lines quoted - when I said that Gayle said it was NOT a BRE Generated Poster. The BRE Poster painted on aluminum is a completely different one. Gayles response to the one I showed her - as below was: "I've never seen that poster. I showed it to Peter and he of course has. We don't have one. He said it was a poster Nissan put out." As you can see - the Nissan Poster from 1970 - looks a lot like the BRE Poster for 70/71.in terms of size/shape and track section.. Personally I like the brighter colors in the Nissan 70 Poster a lot, and I might have it reproduced if I can find a good source around here. FWIW, Carl B.
  2. Most certainly !! And keep it well stocked for visitors !!
  3. Carl Beck replied to rxsleeper's topic in History
    Hi Paul: Yes, I'd love to know more about 0999. Maybe if were lucky some will show up with more of its history and/or pictures. Some of my first experiences with "Sports Cars" involved running a Corvette in with the Mid-Ohio Sports Car Club in the early 60's, in one of their POR like events in Ohio. What a hoot.. the wonders of the Plastic Pig. Winch that sucker out of the mud, and you began to realize why everyone else was using those tiny TR-3's and 356's... Over the years I've been trying to collect more information about the Z's used in North America for SCCA Pro-Rally and/or Vintage Pro-Rally use. Mostly because of liability issues here in America - Pro-Rally events are few and sparely covered by the media. Indeed the organizers seem to avoid publicity of the events, for fear of having the "Safety Nuts" and Lawyers get wind of them. One of the guys in Canada bought one of the Z's that ran in the 1997 Panama to Alaska Rally, by Rick Hintz a few years ago. {picture below} But I don't know if it's still there or not.. http://zhome.com/Racing/RALLY/Hintz.htm FWIW, Carl B.
  4. Unless some PO wired in a relay that fused high/low individually. I think we had a thread on that subject some time ago.. where the pros/con's of left/right vs high/low wiring of the headlights was discussed. The fact that both low beams were out is what reminded me of that.. High/Low dimmer is most likely - I was just tying to think of other things I've run into.. FWIW, Carl B.
  5. Carl Beck replied to 1rad280's topic in Help Me !!
    Who is "they"?? Can you take a picture of your wiring?
  6. Looks like a great car to serve as the basis for a complete refresh or restoration. Once you get the garage done, start looking for some good Package Racking.. at least 6 and better 8' wide by 4'deep, and with at least 5 shelves. That will give you a safe place to put the doors, hood, deck lid, seats, dash, front fenders and other large parts. Check your local Yellow Pages for vendors that carry both new and used Package Racking. It will be one of the best things you buy for the project and your garage. FWIW, Carl B.
  7. Carl Beck replied to 1rad280's topic in Help Me !!
    See if this will help. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/MalloryDist.htm I don't know how different the wiring in the 280Z is from the 240-Z, but there might be something there you can use. FWIW, Carl B.
  8. We have at least two people in this group, that after 20+ years, found their cars. So I don't think that finding the one Wick restored is a lost cause. The odds are against it but long shots do come in... FWIW, Carl B.
  9. -Is it possible that both low beams have burned out? -Is it possible that some PO installed a headlight relay.. and one side of that is out? FWIW, Carl B.
  10. It might be too late - but maybe not. Make sure your garage door openings are at least 9' instead of the usual 8'. Most four post lifts, that have mobile capability ( you can roll them around when the ramps are down)... have Posts that are 8'4" to 8' 10". Which means you can't roll them out the standard height garage door. At times you'd want to roll the lift outside - to pressure wash the undercarriage perhaps... and you wouldn't want the water inside the garage. At time's you might want to roll the lift outside, just to get it out of the way for a few hours.. so other operations can take place in the Garage..
  11. Hi Mike: As I understand it - different Vintage/Historic Racing Organizations had different rules, or local officials that interpret the rules differently. Mostly its a political issue - if the Porsche Guys hold power in the organization they do everything they can to exclude the 240-Z. It's just too embarrassing for them to constantly look at the Z's tail lights. The above being said - there are organizations that state "built before Jan. 01, 1970"... and there are a lot of 240-Z's racing in various Vintage/Historic Races. I don't know who said no 240-Z's were sold in the US prior to 1970. Several most certainly were, but the next problem is proving it, past that point, the definition of "sold" becomes a sticking point. Is the car "sold" when a contract is agreed to and signed by both Buyer and Seller? Is it sold when money changes hands to pay for the car in-full? Or is it "sold" when the Buyer takes physical delivery of the car? I actually bought my 1970 Z, in March of 1970. At that time the Dealer had about 18 customers that had signed a sales contract, and paid for the cars in-full prior to Jan. 1970. Did the Dealer keep the sales records from 1969? NO. Did Nissan USA keep any records from that period? NO. Three of our Original Owners - have 1969 production year Z's... but they all bought them after Jan. 1970. So no proof there. My HLS30 00020 was sold and titled as a 1969 Datsun Cpe. and it is still titled as a 1969 Datsun Cpe. - - but due to the Federal Privacy Laws.. I can't get copies of the original filling of the MSO showing a Dec. Sales Date... So all I have is a "story" from the second owner that the first owner told him... but we all know what stories are worth... I keep hoping that some day - an original owner of a 69 Z will show up with his original Bill Of Sale dated prior to Jan. 01, 1970. Or perhaps one of the Datsun Salesmen, that sold 240-Z's at the L.A. and N.Y. auto shows, will have kept some of the documentation from sales made there.. hope springs eternal.... FWIW, Carl B.
  12. I'm pretty sure that this has been discussed here - in an earlier thread someone posted pictures of their modified shift lever - they had cut it off and rewelded it in another position, then bent it. Nissan Competition used to sell a "Competition Shifter" that was made to install the newer Type B Competition Transmissions in the Series I/II body. It looked a lot like the MSA Short Throw Shifter. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm Note that both the above - change the pivot point at the transmission as well as modifying the shift lever itself. I'm not going to tell you to use the "Search" function - but this is a case where it might do you some good. It doesn't look like anyone is actually going to measure theirs and send you information... per your request. good luck, Carl B.
  13. Hi Mike / Bonzi Yes - that is a new one for the "List of 69's Found To Date". Bonzi - when you get it - let me know what the original engine serial number was. It should still have its engine compartment Data Tag, so you should be able to tell the original engine serial number. Sounds like it is worth saving... good find... I'm sure that several of the people that called wanted it for Vintage/Historic Racing... they wouldn't care if the original engine was in the car or not - they just need a build date prior to 1970. FWIW, Carl B.
  14. Hi Ron: Actually qw know it's not the math - - - the answer is: 2 Z's plus all the other junk that it takes to refresh one... Work Bench Parts Cleaner Compressor and Air hoses Package Racking to hold the parts Tool Chest + roll around tool cart Torch Set Pressure Washer & Steam Cleaner Shop Vac Small Parts Storage Ben Engine Stands Engine Lift Jack Stands Jacks - at least two Car Washing & Detailing Stuff - buckets etc. Lets see - what else am I squeezing between, triping over or having to move around?? Oh yes - a couple of cars:tapemouth If I could just put a 24x24 addition on this garage, I might have some room to workROFL FWIW, Carl B.
  15. Hi mally002: Looks like the construction is coming along quickly... Now is the time to build!! Tell us about the "loft area" - - does that mean you'll have enough height outside the loft to put a four post lift in? Sure wish I had made my garage with 14' high walls, instead of the usual 8'. I just didn't realize how inexpensive four post lifts would become... keep the pictures coming... FWIW, Carl B.
  16. OK - I'll bit.... "tibZ" ??? wannaz I understood... FWIW, Carl B.
  17. Hi ohio260Z That is very interesting - for the benefit of us all - could you show us the page in your regular insurance policy, where it states " Agreed Replacement Value $8,000.00". I would guess it's on your Declarations Page or within the Comp/Collision section... I'd just like to see it in the Policy, to see exactly were it is, and exactly what is written. So we all know where to look and what to look for... thanks, Carl B. BTW - I lived in Ashland, and when in Columbus I worked for Nationwide for a while... small world...
  18. Hi Jim: Advanced Auto - at least shows the correct part in their On-line inventory... They did not have one in Stock at the Store, nor in the Stores in this Area (nothing new), but said they could order it. I didn't order it, because I needed it now of course. Bumper To Bumper Auto Parts said they showed the number on "backorder" and did not have a "expected date" shown... I wound up over-hauling the one on the car. Searching on line, it looks like you are right. All the "new" one's show pictures of the 9/71 Forward, and the reman's show the correct master - but without the reservoirs. Interesting... FWIW, Carl B.
  19. Just FYI - - Our local Advanced Auto Parts (as well as others) sell a couple different after-market brands/types of Brake Master Cylinders for the pre 8/71 Z Cars. One type is $135.00 - but it comes WITHOUT the fluid reservoirs - so you have to remove the old one's from yours and put them on the replacement. Another type is $185.00 and comes with new reservoirs. NOTE - the rubber stoppers in the reservoir caps will dissolve in brake fluid over time. They turn into a thick black gooe.. So if you use your old reservoirs, be sure to order new caps. This is a very common problem with cars parked in the barn for 6+ years... FWIW, Carl B.
  20. As I recall, 810 was the model number. The base model got only the model number, and the "Maxima" was an upgraded trim package, that included A/T on the 77/79's. As I recall the 80's Maxima was V6 with Front Wheel Drive.. actually much better styling. However the Toyota Cressida with an in-line six and far better build quality was the market leader in that class from 81 forward, although the class was small. They were both relatively expensive for a Japanese import and Datsun/Toyota buyers were not for the most part looking for high prices. One of the managers I worked with had a 82 Cressida - very impressive car at the time. If I could find a low mileage example - I'd buy one today. FWIW, Carl B.
  21. Hi Poindexter: For SURE... with the right routing coming from Ohio South.. you could do the Tail. Here is picture from one of the Annual ZDayz in Fontana, NC. Large Z Car Meets there, along with my white 72 at one of the scenic stops along the Tail. It's beautiful scenery and wonderful driving in a Z just getting there and going home.. http://www.zdayz.com/ FWIW, Carl B.
  22. Just as an aside - The color codes that the manufactures use, along with the formula the paint supplier creates - that specifies the exact amount of which if their color tints are mixed - - - are originally based on the type of paint and type/quality of color tints that were current and specified when the cars were produced. Even then - minute differences in the droplet size, dispensed by various color mixing machines could result in slight differences of the resulting shades of the same color. GM used to sell "Factory Packs" where they took the actual paint being sprayed at the factory that day or week - and packaged it up for later use if necessary by their Authorized Dealers -to fix transport damage etc. Buying the Factory Packs was the closest you'd ever get to the actual color the factory put on the car. As paint systems, formula's, and base composition of materials used evolved over time - the paint manufacturers had to adjust their formulas, so that the newer technology paints and different color tints being used - could produce results as close as possible to the original colors - - they are close, but don't expect exact color matches to 20 or 30 year old paints, based on a formula that has been adjusted several times to account for several different types of paint.(fading, aging and environmental factors aside). Today, using modern paint types - if you do want to get a close as possible to the original color on a 240-Z, I'd agree that using a panel with the original color for color matching is the way to go. Keep in mind that what you see as "color" is reflected light - acrylic enamel from 30 years ago reflected light differently than todays base/clear systems, or todays single stage urethanes. They are just such different materials. The color matching systems look at the reflect light from the sample part, then using the modern color tints and considering the modern paint base - they create a formula that will get you as close as your going to get (if everything in the color matching system is up to spec. to begin with). As mentioned above - PPG seems to have evolved and corrected their formulas over the years about as well as anyone could, but don't be surprised if the paint you actually get is two to four shades off.. As mentioned above - if your looking for a certain end result - you'll have to buy extra paint and spray several large test panels - then select the one that is closest to your expectations... FWIW, Carl B. BTW - the 77/78 280Z had its rear chassis redesigned to reinforce it where necessary, to pass the required 10mph bumper standard, because the Federal Government would not give Nissan (or any other manufacture) another waver to the Standard, as they had in 1975. That resulted in additional strength in the rear frame rails, which required additional room under the rear deck - .. so they raised the metal floor and added the false interior floor to cover the spare.. from Aug. 76 85210-N4700 Comp-ShockAB rear bumper RH 85211-N4700 Comp-ShockAB rear bumper LH Up to July 76 85210-N4200 Assy-Absorber Rear Bumper RH 85211-N4200 Assy-Absorber Rear Bumper LH
  23. Working as a New Car Sales Manager for a Datsun Dealership in 73, and selling Datsuns here in Florida in 74 - I can tell you that if Nissan had been able to produce three times as many 1200's and 510's we could have sold them in a heart beat in 73. The reputation the 510 had built was almost at it's peak - why Nissan decided to come out with a model change at this point is beyond me, and it was beyond all the other Dealers in Dealers Association at the time. By 73 you didn't really "sell" 510's - you just took orders and delivered the cars. The 610 was supposed to be an up-scale/luxury reincarnation of the 510 - but it completely lacked the wonderful personality of the 510. The 610 was actually a very nice car once you got the 510 out of your head, the problem was the public still wanted a Datsun 510 - and they simply went to Toyota as their next alternative.. It was an interesting situation - one that the Sales Force and I discussed - even after I moved down here to Clearwater. People would come in, with their decision to BUY a 510 already made. We would have to inform them that the 510 had gone out of production, and was being replaced by this wonderful new 610. The average Customer would say something to the effect of "well $^!#". then they would simply leave - they didn't want to hear about anything else. The had finally made up their mind that they wanted a 510 only to find they couldn't buy one.. The switch from the 1200 to the B210 went better - it was all about gas mileage in a known dependable car... The Trans/Am being over - the poor 610 never really got the enthusiasts hyped up.. So they continued to recommend the 510 - even if all you could find was a used one. They saw the 610 as overweight and not as tossable nor fun as the 510. Of course the US Emissions Standards also hurt the 610's performance.... and the price increase for the 610 didn't help sales either.. I'd buy a 610 Wagon in a heart beat if I could find one in excellent shape around here.... but you just don't see them anymore... FWIW, Carl B. BW - that little F-10 that was on E-Bay was amazing.
  24. OK - credit China with having the intellectual honesty to chose the best design for their purposes... it is a magnificent structure and it does just shout CHINA. It seems the first step in developing design and engineering capabilities is to hire the best from around the world and learn from them. I should have googled it first... I think I'll go look at what else these Architects have done... FWIW, Carl B.
  25. Looking at the DATSUN X-Link: Personally, I'd be OK with the styling for 2010. Make it 1200cc, 110HP and less than 2000lbs - that sells pretty well equipped for $11,995.00 (and actually sells for that!!). Make it rear wheel drive, with a typical DATSUN bulletproof engine and drive train... 21mpg in town and 38 on the highway. Build a lot of Customer VALUE into it - and yes, it would be a modern DATSUN. Of course it would have to be sold through a NEW Dealer Chain where the new Authorized Dealers were real car people and hungry to build a successful dealership. Dealers that actually own and operate their Dealerships and actually deal day to day, face to face with their customers... Yep - you couldn't build them fast enough. Send it to your typical Nissan Dealer - and it would represent another FLOP... they want to sell $35K Maxima's now, or $32K Pickup's... At $12K they would let the little car sit on the back lot.. or blow you out the doors if you came in and ask for one.. DATSUN was about 25% the actual cars/trucks, 50% the Authorized Dealers and their Service/Parts Departments and 25% DATSUN USA. The people at DATSUN actually listened to their Customers and delivered the high quality cars/trucks they wanted to buy - at prices they could afford. Every Datsun had a large dose of Customer Value... Something that seems to have been all but completely lost in todays market.... As the standard of living of middle class America, goes steadily downward - the need for low priced new cars will grow here. Toyota was very wise to start their low priced brand - and Nissan has a huge advantage in the DATSUN Brand Name... who ever actually wants to buy a Sicon?... Every car nut would love to have a new DATSUN.. even if for their kids.. FWIW, Carl Beck Clearwater, FL

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