texasz

nutxo, off topic a little but since you mentioned it I must know. What is double clutching??? I've heard the term before but never know what it was. Now on a similar note, my compression readings are 120, 120, 120, 120, 40, 120 (give or take a few, it was done a couple months ago and I don't remember the exact numbers). So except for that one cyl the car seems to have worn evenly much like yours. The low cyl is a ring problem, we poured some thick oil in there and the compression jumped in like with the others or better.

Please be kind, I'm new to the terminology too. If the lobes are the shiney parts of the cam that make contact with the rocker arms (is that the right name?) then you are correct, there is no rust on that area only between them and also really only near the front of the cam. What is the rod that runs parallel to the cam that I indicated has rust on it too? What's it's function/purpose?

Say! I just thought of something. You say that this will rev a couple hundred RPMs higher on the highway. I have also read that a lightened or an aluminum flywheel will reduce low end torque and RPMs as well are increase top end speed. If a lightened or an aluminum flywheel is used with a 4.11 wouldn't you net about the same results as a 3.9 while saving a little weight too?

Are the manifold studs available from somewhere? How do you remove them and install new ones (a special tool)? As long as I can find the coolant connector that should be a no brainer to replace. On the rust, am I correct in assuming that I should do my best to not allow it to fall onto the head when cleaning it off? I'm very new to engine work and do not know how clean thigs must stay so as to not cause any problems later on.

mwz, how much are these mesh grills?

I had bought an N42 head from a guy and just received it last night. It has been rebuilt and then stored without having been used so it truely is a fresh rebuild. However, there was no cam sproket or valve cover and there is some rust in a few places. Please see the pix in my my gallery, there is one where I have pix from all angles in one photo and have circled some of the rust locations in red. I don't understand how the gallery system works, the head pix are scattered throughout my gallery and not in the order I uploaded them either. In short, there is a little on the cam, on the rod that runs parallel to the cam, the manifold bolts, in the little passages on the manifold side, and the piece that hangs off on the plug side of the head. Can someone please tell me how bad this is for the head and what can be done about it? I don't really want to pay for another rebuild or anything like that. Can this just be cleaned up with something? Does it need cleaned up (I'm thinking yes)? What would be used to clean it up (tools, chemicals, etc)? Should I be mad at the seller for not disclosing this information to me? As a side note, since the cam sproket is missing are they all the same between the different Z heads?

I don't have the luxury of an inspection as the unit is half way accross the country. But from everyone's input I will get back with the seller and let him know I want it. Thank you all very much!!

The price is very right, R180 4.11 for just under $100 SHIPPED!! :classic: :bandit:

Here's a pic of the outside of the diff.

Here is a pic of the inside of a diff I am looking at buying and I'd like to know if it appears to be in good shape?

The car with the least amount of BAD rust/rust through is probably the best starting point.

The show is nearing and the club needs voluteers to help staff and judge the event so if you are interested contact them about it...and enter your Z while you're at it.

Anyone have any information that they can share about the service manual by autopress? I found one for the '70-'71 240Z for sale and want to know if it's a book worth having at a price tag of $26 + S&H or should I pass on it?

Interesting again...if you are talking about the summer/winter switch on the front of the air cleaner housing mine has that as well and my car was produced 8/70. I have no idea where it was originally shipped to and sold but it's in Texas, and the previous owner lived here too. *shrug*

That is an interesting observation. I have a series I and my door locks are on the top of the door. It looks like these were at one time but they have been plugged and one has been added behind the arm rest if I'm not mistaken.

Holly cow!! Your cam broke!? What car was that in and what other damage was caused?

For those of you who are in or near central Texas there is a Z car show coming up on Sept. 20 that you may be interested in attending. Here's some info. 5th Annual Texas Statewide Datsun/Nissan Autoshow

N5572B, see this thread where 2many has kindly provided us with a listing of what diff came in what vehicle. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1568&perpage=15&pagenumber=2

You're on the right path I think. If the starter will not crank the engine (all you get is silence or the clicking sound) then you have a problem with the electrical. Could be a bad starter, a cable may be grounding on the chasis somewhere, bad coil (I know it's new but I have had a few things that were new be DOA), etc. I would not consider the plugs or gas in the chambers since the engine is not even cranking. I'd keep working the angle you have been and maybe someone else here will have a better idea of what it is than me.