texasz

The dilema is that I could get a used R180 4.11 now for about $100 including shipping. Or I could wait and look for a 3.9 and the junkyard 720 4x4 is the route I was going to go. We all know what finding parts in a junkyard can be like :stupid: so I'm just trying to decide and needed some advice/info/help.

2many, I saw that one last week also but that was out of my price range. FWIW the guy got no bids on it so I'm sure that he still wants to sell it and he may be negotiable on the price now.

Ok, I've been through the calculator at http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ and I have also read up on the charts on http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/6117/datsuntransmittionratios.html Now what I'm trying to determine is what is the noticable difference between an R180 3.9 and an R180 4.11 in a 240Z with an F54 block, N42 head, and a '77 5-speed? Will I notice any difference between the two diffs? I will be autoxing the car and also an occasional weekend/weekday drive for fun. Please do not say that these ratios are not available in the R180, they are but they are just hard to find.

dero, Are those a pair of Z dished mags that you've done in black? Those look sharp! How did you do that and what did you use? I am also curious aobut your air induction fab work. How does that work out for you? Any noticable gains? What did you use and how did you do this mod?

So far if I'm reading this correctly if you put an LD28 carnk in a stock L28 with no other changes then you have just created a 2.9 and if you bore out the cyls then you could have a 3.1 If all you do is put in the LD28 crank and make no other mods how will the car perform? Better, worse, or what? And how/what will it change? If that was all I planned on doing would there be other parts that would have to be changed also or just the crank? All the writeups I have seen talk about doing the 3.1 upgrade and I had no plans of doing this. I was just curious if the LD28 crank would benefit me without doing the other mods. BTW: I will be running an N42 head if this matters.

I'm in the same boat, I will certainly miss this year's autox season all together and maybe part of next as well. See this thread for the kind of info and responses I got: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7922 Maybe we should have a big engine rebuild party here in Texas for all of us who have to do this and don't really know quite what we're doing yet. You know, get together in a big shop with a couple skilled people to assist us...some pizza and beer...some tunes...lots of cursing...

What fuel tank will fit my series I 240Z (it was made in 8/70)? How many different tanks are there for the 240 and what years are compatible (straight bolt on)?

Anyone? I'd really like to know what the benefits are...

What I want to do is put a 1" sway bar up front and a 7/8" in the rear. This seems to be the way that they are paired up and re certainly more substantial than stock. Also when I do this I plan on putting urethane bushings on.

Like Doehring, I too would like a good explanation of what the benefit of an LD28 crank is. I have an "82 L28 with an F54 block that I'm going to rebuild with an N42 head and put in my 240Z and would like to know what difference the LD28 crank would make since I will already have it taken apart. I am planning on keeping everything else stock in the engine (i.e. no over boring).

Well until I got down to the money criteria I had an idea but unfortunately what I was going to suggest run more than that. However, should you find one...I LOVE my 4Runner!! It's a Toyota so it will run forever and they were originally designed with offroad driving in mind. Mine is a 2000 Sport model 4x4 with a 6cyl. but the new ones have a V8 option.

It was advertised as a Z sway bar, I can not remember what year now. That's ok though, the auction ended weeks ago.

If you live in Houston, Dallas, San Antonio, Austin or anywhere near or in between any of these locations please help me out if you can. I called Just Dashes and they want $800 to restore my dash, I can buy one from MSA for that. I need to know if there is anyone in the above areas that does dash restoration...NOT just putting a dash cap on the old dash. PLEASE help me out here, money is tight (as always) and I'm not sure I'll be able to send my dash off to Aust. with the other members like I had hoped.

kmack, Do you happen to know what year(s) this was in the Maxima?

Just for reference if anyone can also say what they can be found in for USA model cars that would be great info too.

Gav, What mods were done to the car?

Victor, As I mentioned much of the history of what's going on is located in another thread which I provided a link to above. However, to help a bit here's some of the info. No points, it has an electronic ignition. Appears to be in good condition. Timing was set. Plug wires are pretty new and in good condition. New plugs were gapped yesterday just before installation. I have not done this nor do I know how. Fuel filter is new. Could not find the window to see what the float level was. As stated above, this was one thing I did yesterday. As stated above, this was one thing I did yesterday. I hope this helps a bit.

Updates moved into the Carb forum in this thread.

Well I finally had a bit of time to play with my carbs yesterday. As some of you may know from a previous post, Running Like A Dog Today, I was having some problems with the way the car was running. Bottom like is that it was running very rich. The plugs had about 3 hours of running time on them and were carbon fouled like you wouldn't believe (black, black, black). I got new plugs and printed out the instructions from zhome.com on how to tune your SUs and took three of my repair manuals out to embark on trying to fix the problem. Now I know that I did not really fix much but was fairly pleased with my results considering that this was my first run at messing with carbs. The car used to backfire ALL the time. I got that resolved (mostly). I do not think that I have the mixture right nor do I think that I have the carbs balanced. However, I did find that the knarled nut with the ball on it under the carb was only turned 1/2 turn down from the carb!! From what I have read it should have been 1.5 to 2.5 turns down as a starting point to tune them. I turned it down more and the backfiring stopped! The only time it backfired after this was when I pressed on the gas then started it. It seems as though the plugs are stilling fouling up but I think that I'm getting closer. I too the car out for a drive and it really seemed to drive, accelerate, and idle better now that it was getting more gas. However, it is still running rich I think. I really need to find a color tune to help me with this. Anyone know where I can find one? Also, I bought the Syncrometer from MSA instead of the Syncrotester and am not sure that this was a wise move. All of the documentation references the Syncrotester and where the floating ball should be but there is nothing to tell me how to use the Syncrometer. Should I write off the Syncrometer and just buy the Syncrotester or can someone help me to figure out how to use the Syncrometer? As an additional request, if there is anyone in the Austin area willing to help me learn how to tune my carbs I would really appreciate it.

First off welcome to the group. There's a wealth of information here and everyone is very willing to share it with you if only you ask. 1. You can read up on zhome.com about the cars history, production info and stats. 2. Definately look for rust! Look at the floorpans, under the battery tray, the rockers, the rear deck above the taillights where the hatch closes, frame rails, etc. You could probably find someone local to do your carb work but there is also a place in CA that has a good reputation for these carbs; it's ZTheropy and they have a website, ztheropy.com. 3. Can't help on this one, I'm in TX. 4. A/C was available as a dealer option as I recall so adding it I do not think would hurt the value (someone else here may have better info on that). However, if you want to buy the system you can get it from MSA (MotorSport) www.zcarparts.com or from Courtesy Nissan in Dallas TX, they have a website too. Either place I think it will cost you about $600-650. For more sites check out the links section here.

gav, Where did you find that model of the police Z? That's really cool. I wonder if they are available any where...

I'm completely new to the internal workings of an engine. How would I know if it has been milled down too far?

That's the kind of aswer I wanted to hear. And pretty much what I expected but had to make sure. I may have to build on this thread after I get the head.

I will soon be getting a head that was rebuilt a couple years ago and has never been used or installed on a block. Are there any special considerations that I should be aware of before trying to bolt it on and use it?

I installed an alarm in an early '80s Honda Accord hatchback around 1989 or so and it was a MAJOR PITA!! It took 8 hours over two days to do and this was a basic system, no power window or lock actuators, no starter kill; just door, hatch, and hood trigger switches and a vibration sensor. I'm not sure if I will ever do that again, every car since I have just paid the guys at Custom Sounds to do it...and it gets done the right way. Just my experience. Now granted this was when I was new to cars and audio (and the like) equipment. It would probably go quicker now that I know more.