texasz

Depending upon the size of the sub you want to put in you may be able to have a box between the seat backs and the verticle wall of the hatch area (where the tool storage is on the series I 240Z). This would certainly be hidden and you are guaranteed to "feel the bass!" I figure that a pair of 8's would be about right, or maybe you could fit a single 10" in that area; I'm just working from memory on the size of that area and have never measured it.

I too sell things on ebay and I typically only add about $2 (sometimes even less) to the actual shipping cost unless the item is VERY heavy, then I do add a bit more. For some items I charge a flat rate, like CDs are $3 which barely covers the shipping and Jiffy-Pak. Tip: I ALWAYS email the buyer their tracking number immediately, this eliminates that email three days later, plus then I don't have to try and find that damn receipt with the tracking number on it.

Suicidal Tendencies....... I saw you mommy and you mommy's dead! I saw her laying in a pool of blood At least that's the way I think this song went...

1975yellowBSPZ, I have not done the job yet. I have ordered the Spicer joints only for the side that is bac (2 joints) and will let you know how it goes after I have done it. I would like to have a go at it this weekend if the parts come in time.

I have a PU that I shopped around for a spray in bed liner for. Rhino came out to be the best out there, it's sprayed on thicker for one which in the bed of a truck this matters. Any how, as far as what was said...these spray in bed liners do prevent rust...as long as they remain intact! Once a tear, rip, chunk or what ever has been taken out of it this exposes the underlying metal to the elements. Being that it is designed to be abused in the bed of a truck this stuff is all pretty tough, however it's not bullet proof and can be damaged. Just think of the under side of your car when you kick up rocks and other items at a highway speed...what if you hit a board in the road, etc. On the bright side this material can be patched easily! I have a spot on my tailgate where the bolt heads are that hold the handle on that has been scrapped off through normal usage and the Rhino place will fix it for me...no problem. Hope this helps a little.

Be careful with the plastic, it is old and they do break. Trust me. That plastic thing is threaded so you can also turn it so that it moves up then you are just left with pulling the metal rod out, this may give you a little more room to work with and also move the plastic part out of harms way. This is a tough job as there is not much room in there to work and it's hard to get your hands in there. Best of luck.

Most of these and some other parts are now for sale on eBay. Please go have a look-see!! http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=djsting1&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

I sent the seller an email requesting more information and clarification. NO REPLY!! EVER.

Seeking the following parts: The center console from series I(if in very good shape with no cracks, breaks, etc) Heater/Radio panel (no controls, just the plastic cover panel)(if in very good shape with no cracks, breaks, etc) The ashtray from series I The valve cover from series I(if it is the same as mine, reads "NISSAN 2400 OHC") Rear license plate light assembly (if in very good shape with no cracks, breaks, etc) Fuse box and cover from series I(if in very good shape with no melts and has long pigtail) [/list=1] Please provide prices, pix, and any other info you have on these parts.

Xargon321, check out this thread I have going...I'm in the same boat! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10034

And I see that nobody has bought one yet. Hey, does this require you to run Active Desktop? EDIT: I should have clarified my statement. Based upon the auction link above it appears as though only 1 has been sold thus far. Sorry about that.

kmack, great info! I will be doing that in the next day or two. About my other question...how much more effort would it be to swap the diff while I'm doing the u-joints? I'll be under the car, I'll have the shafts partly taken apart already...

Unfortunately like mentioned previously, it is not that clear cut. My car is a great example! It's production date is 8/70, VIN is HLS3008215, has all the charateristics of a Series I car yet is titled as a '71. *shrug* Go figure.

He must have said U-Joint and by the time I posted this I was just confused (he's very knowledgable about Z's, he has been working on them since the beginning and went to the first Z school that Datsun/Nissan held). The question I have before ordering them is since all he did was drive the car and not put it in the air how can I tell if this it the real problem? Can I just jack the car up, roll under there, look at them and be able to tell? What will I be looking for to tell if this is the problem? I just don't want to order the expensive u-joints from MSA and find out that this was not the problem after all. While I'm there how much more work is it to swap the diff? I have my new one sitting in the garage ready to go!

I saw a website months ago that had them listed for $9.99 but I can't seem to find it again. DAMN, I wish that I had bookmarked it when I saw it!!! :mad: :stupid:

Only reason I could see that someone may want to run a 5.88 in a Z would be for some of the hill-climb races that are around. Something like the July 4th climb to the clouds (I think it's called, and I think that's the date) that runs up Pike's Peak in Colorado Springs, CO. That's one big hill with a huge elevation change...I have read how hard it is to tune the cars for the race due to the change in elevation...the peak is over 14000 feet. To add to the difficulty the last 2/3 of the road are not paved as I recall.

I know that there are a few of you on here that live in and around Austin and I would like to know who you trust with your engine rebuild and machine shop needs? I am working on rebuilding an engine and will have to send some of the work out and want someout good.

Ok, I swung by the Z-Clinic this morning and the owner/mechanic told me that the awful noise coming from the passenger rear was a very bad c-joint. He wants $125 for the one side and stated that the part is about $50 from the dealership. I was looking in both VB and MSA catalogs and did not find them...did I misunderstand and he said U-Joints? Is there such a thing as a c-joint? So if it is the u-joint then they run $12.95/each from VB for the stock type and $17.95/each for the same at MSA. Now MSA also has a Spicer heavy duty u-joint they recommend for racing which costs $32.95/each. Does anyone know how much better these are? I will be autoxing my Z and would like to know if the extra money is worth it on these. Other questions are how hard of a job is this? Do I have to replace ALL the u-joints at the same time or not? If yes does this include the ones on the drive shaft or just the half shafts?

Generally putting in an '81-'83 280ZX Turbo engine will be what you are looking for but what you DON'T want is the P90a head! I think that these were only in the '83s so what this really means is that you will be looking for an '81-'82 280ZX Turbo engine, this will have the P90 head which is said to be the best flowing head and all three years have the F54 block wich is considered the best block by most. The difference is that the P90a went to hydrolic lifters and they are crap (from what everyone says...and I do mean everyone). After that there are other mods you can do but I do not know anything about these as I am focused on a carbed non-turbo car and have not investigated your choice.

Just so everyone knows, this guy has been selling these on ebay for the past couple weeks. I don't know how much longer he will be selling them though.

Great! I'm glad you were able to get pix of the other items. Can you please post/email the pix of the ashtray, valve cover, the fuse box with the cover off, and heater control panel cover? I still want the center console too. Also, are the metal coat hooks salvagable? If so I'd like to know what condition they are in and how much they are.

What does this software do or classic Z car owners?

For Z cars the names to know for parts are as follows: Victoria British (commonly know as VB) - www.victoriabritish.com Motorsport (commonly know as MSA) - www.zcarparts.com Zed Findings (great for floorboards among other things) - www.datsunzparts.com Midwest Z - www.midwestz.com Z Parts - www.zparts.com Z Therapy (THE place for rebuilt and performance carbs, etc) - www.ztherapy.com Z Barn - http://zbarn.com Among many, many others who's links are located in the 'LINKS' section of this site. The ones I have listed are probably the most popular from what I can remember at the moment (if anyone is missing please do not be offended I'm working from memory only). Welcome to the group and enjoy your Z!! This is the nicest most helpful Z site I have found yet!

Larry 73Z, the dash from what I understand is a series I which is different from the '73 dash. The dashes are all interchangeable but there are differences between the series I and series II. BTW: the fuse box is already spoken for...by me, sorry.

I have begun working on rebuilding an engine and will be selling pieces that I do not want/need. Here is what I have now: 1) Power Stearing Pump from running '82 280Z 2) AC Compressor from running '82 280Z 3) P79 head from running '82 280Z 4) FI setup from running '82 280Z (engine parts only, manifold, injectors, etc.) 5) Stock Exhaust Manifold running '82 280Z 6) Blower thing from running '82 280Z (mounted on plug side of engine and blows air from engine compartment over intake manifold) 7) '82 280ZX air cleaner - complete 8) What I believe to be an original space saver spare tire from a Z, was made in Japan All parts were removed from a running '82 280Z engine. I have not run the engine personally but it was bought from someone who drove the car home and is doing a V8 swap. All parts are sold as-is. Make me a reasonable offer on any/all of these parts and it's yours!! I have pix if you want to see something first just let me know.