texasz

Is this a front sway bar for a 240Z?

Ok, does anyone have the measurements from the piviot point to the top and from the piviot point to the bottom of the stock shifter?

This is generally what I thought with one exception. I would think that if the stick were shorter it would eliminate this problem and if it were longer then you would have to lean forward to go into and out of 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears. Your circle example show has this would support what I am thinking. Please let me know if you just mis-typed this or if there is some important part that I'm missing.

I have heard that a short throw stick was make shifting easier and allow for faster shifting. So I have to ask: 1) What is the length of a standard stick in a first gen Z? 2) What are the real benifits to a short throw stick? I have a very early '71 240Z (really a '70) that will be getting a '77 5-speed in it if this helps any.

Here's a link to my thread where I was trying to do the same thing. Basically I found that you can not do a compression test with the engine out of the car like this. I tried with a drill, did not turn...I tried with an impact wrench, did not turn...I tried with a socket wrench with a LONG handle (3' logn!) and that didn't produce good results either. Running the car in the manner that LanceM described is down right SCARY!!! Please don't try this, it's a bit nuts! Sorry LanceM, I know we all do stupid things when we are young (I certainly have) but this one is a bit out there. :stupid: Glad nothing happened to you. By the way, how long did the engine run?

Help fast!! I need to know what size the lug nut is on a 240Z? I need to buy a socket to fit and have no way to measure the size. EDIT: Scratch that, I just found a socket that I did not know I had. A 13/16 fits just right!

owenk, truer words were never spoken. My first car was a good buy (a 10 year old Accord for $1800) and passed my mechanic's inspection but within 6-9 months the tranny was slipping (an automatic), the A/C quit working, and there was another major malfunction but it slips my mind. I was in a way fortunate that I got rearended and the car was totalled thus getting me out from under it and having cash from the insurance to buy something else (which I autox and ran into the ground!). Also about the women, SO true. My wife does not like riding in my 240Z because it smells of exhaust and has no A/C. When she has been in it she said it smelled like a Nova (to her this meant an old car) to which I took great offence to. She also does not like it parked in front of the house because it is not all prettied up yet (see my gallery or the icon under my name). However, she does like that I enjoy it and that makes her happy. Aaaawwww!

Yes, I have a few that I just posted to my site. as well as pix of the other early Z cars at the Capital Z of Texas car show that was held on 9/20/2003.

PrOxLaMuS©, no there is one pipe that runs from the header to the muffler and then a Y pipe that comes out of the muffler and makes it look really cool.

Ok, so here's mine...and you even get to see the 4Runner and maybe a glimpse of the Silverado (bonus!). http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5609&size=big&password=&sort=2&thecat=500

Here's a pic of mine that melted sometime before I bought the car. It is the third one down on the right side that melted (not sure what that is for). The easiest thing would be for me to replace it with the one from my '73 parts car if I could then I could worry about rebuilding it later and not be rushed to complete it and take the chance of doing something wrong.

Are the fuse boxes from all the 240Zs the same (i.e. '70-'73 all the same) or where there differences? If not the same can someone please tell me what the differences were? I have an early '71 (8/70 production date) that has a melt in the fuse box and I have a '73 parts car with a good fuse box.

Where in the world is Mexia? Do you paint cars too?

I have now placed, and received, two orders from them and both times I was fortunate enough to speak with the same person who was EXTREMELY helpful and very knowledgeable (even told me to call him directly in the future). I have had no problems with them yet. I agree with 2many, I'd make them eat the shipping since it was their error. Does not matter how or why it was their error, it WAS their's so they should make it right.

So then if I'm understanding this right using the 'stock' slot mags that came on the car and a 1" wheel spacer would give you the room to install the S12W breaks and vented discs. HOWEVER, this would be a bad idea as this would push the wheel out past the stock centerline thus causing other problems. *shrug* It was just a thought. Oh well, no big deal. I will just get the S12-8 and use my stock discs.

I just thought about something, everyone seems to agree that the S12W Toyota 4 piston calipers with vented discs will not fit behind a 14" wheel and that you must go to at least a 15" wheel. Well what about putting a wheel spacer on? This would push the wheel out some. Would this allow for the S12W behind a 14" wheel? How sturdy/stable are the wheel spacers? I will be autoxing my car so I will be hitting lots of turns very hard and would not want any problems.

Slightly off topic but I was under the impression that running straight water was bad due to the freeze temp, and running straight antifreeze was also bad do to the same reason. This is why you should run a mix, I have always run a 50/50 mix here in the heat of Texas. I think that the antifreeze bottles have a mixture chart on the back of them but I do not have one and can not remember. As far as the amount, I would agree. Just fill it up and watch the level, I also would keep some in the overflow bottle.

Is SSR a brand name? Are you talking about 14 or 15 SSR wheels? Where might I start to look for a pair?

I'm curious about this. Can someone explain why smaller is better? I know bigger is not always better but in this case why is smaller better? I was thinking that a good light 15" would have been better than the 14" that is on the car.

*bump* This show is this weekend!!

I got my AC Delco at O'Riley's for $50, it's the middle of the road stand that will hold up to 750lbs. For $40 you can get the next step down that holds 500lbs at many places as mentioned above. Make sure you get the right bolts, I have to return to the store 4 times before they got it right! The problem I had was the thread pattern, for my L24 it uses 10mm by 1.5 and what ever length you need for your stand. Your bolts should be the same seeing as how the tranny is interchangable through all the L series engines and you are mounting to the tranny bellhousing locations.

So how big can you go before you have to do other mods (coil-overs, flares, etc.) 15", 16", 17", etc.? Also what is the offset?

$45/tire is a great deal, I have forgotten how cheap small tires are (I just paid $106 for a truck tire yesterday...one tire). Anyhow, for autox are the Falken Azenis the best tire for the money? I will need a set of tires for autox and that's all they will be used for, I have two sets of wheels and the other set will have my daily street tires on them so tread wear is not as big of a concern to me.

I would be interested in browsing PDK Racing's site to see the other products you have. Can you give us the URL?

Mine is a 240Z zmefly. I'm not too concerned though, I'll be replacing the engine with an F54 block (flat top pistons) and N42 head soon. Double clutching sounds tricky and like something you must practice a lot to get it right. It also sounds very hard on the car, the clutch especially.