texasz

Really? This is new information to you? Sorry, I know that sounds really nasty...I'm just taken back that you have not noticed ALL new autos have day-time running lights (DRL as is often indicated on the window sticket or equipment list). Now this may be an option or standard equipment, it's there on new cars in one way or another (i.e. maybe not all new cars have them if they are optional equipment). In any case, the day-time running lights are intended to ALWAYS be on and make autos on the road more visible no matter what the conditions. They are not so much for the driver's ability to see the road as it is other drivers to see the auto (i.e. most people fail/forget to turn on their headlights in rain). Now at night they do help the driver see the road a little better. They are by no means fog lights though, those are completely different and have the yellow lens. Not sure if this helps or not, hopefully it does. And seriously, no disrespect is meant by the way I started this post so please do not take it that way.

May be a state by state issue as with many things (i.e. radar detectors, front license plates, window tint, etc). So that said it may be hard to get an answer for what most states do. Unless you are moving you may consider just focusing on what your state requires as they will be the ones you have to deal with for inspections. If you do what most states allow and you live in a state that is different you'll run in to troubles.

I have one though I'm not in Houston or the area...I'm in Austin. I may even consider selling it as I have my eye on another one. Here's what I got, oh and these pix were when it was new about 5 years ago so the paint and wood are weathered now. http://www.pape.ws/gallery/v/Our_Life_Together/Our+Hobbies/Allan_s+Hobbies/240Z+Car/Car+Trailer/

Can anyone tell me what these are, I'm thinking that these are what people refer to as the honeycomb wheels?

Do a quick search on this site for REDDAT and you will see all the complaints over the years including mine from about 4 years back. I'll NEVER, NEVER, NEVER do business with this guy again. No morals, no ethics and has a real attitude as I recall.

I'm sorry to hear that you are doing business with REDAT from Houston...I truely hope you have a better experience that I and others have had (there's a thread on here somewhere about him).

Thank you, and well said. I was really not quite sure what more to say. :classic: I've had that site up for a few years now except for some down time in 2006/2007 due to a complete and very ugly server crash. I put Z related info I find/collect there for all to benefit from...I source what I can though much of the information I got from others to begin with so I do not know it's origins. If anyone has content to share please contact me, I'd love to have it myself and share the info with the Z community; the only thing I'm not interested in hosting are all the videos (I have tons of them including the Wangan movies, all 10 of them...no I have yet to see any except the first)...I used to host the videos and movies until I discovered how hard it was hitting my through-put, I could barely check email there were so many people streaming or downloading. Sorry about that everyone, this is my personal DSL connection at home so until someone feels like paying for a fiber connection...

If only you were closer...I'd be there already. :disappoin

Yes it does. Take a look at a bottle of finger nail polish remover...acetone! Diluted of course, yet still very strong stuff. I reember playing with it in the chem lab, take a bit of nail polish remover and drop one of those packing peanuts in, rotate the container slowly around and around until the packing peanut has completely disolved and the acetone has evaporated...you now have a nice thin pink layer on the container (assuming your peanut was a pink one as it was in the lab to clearly illustrate this concept). Any how, yes it will remove paint so use caution. Also head the other's warnings above...my experience with acetone is quite limited and it sounds as if others have more exposure to it and know more about what it is like to work with. Thank you for the info, 50/50 ATF and acetone...good to know. Hmmm....I've been using PB Blaster and looking at these numbers I'm considering changing to something that works better.

As some of you may know I'm stripping down a parts car and the headliner seems to be in good shape so I'd like to remove it carefully. Any directions on this? Tips/pointers also accepted.

You already posted it above TomoHawk. :stupid:

Yes, this is all information I have read before. Unfortunately what is discussed is all about the compression ratio and I'm asking for HP and torque numbers given two combinations. The engine calculators do not provide this information...I've already used 2 or 3 of them to check before posting here.

Both, or combined. See statement below. I'm completely fine wtih, in fact I'd prefer, the last one in the series of pix posted...the orange glossy coverer 1971 FSM. I know that this was a more recent reprint and likely to be more readily available and affordable than originals. I'll leave the originals for someone who wants to collect them, I need a FSM to use (read: it will get dirty). Banzai does not seem to have the 1970 FSM available and they are charging a pretty penny for what they do have. These later reprints were going for $75 or less, I just have not seen one recently...of course, now that I'm looking for one...when I wasn't they were everywhere. :stupid:

I'm still keeping an eye out for this manual if anyone happens to see one.

WOW! Really? Nobody has any information on this? I figured someone here would have some numbers and thoughts on this...maybe I posted in the wrong forum to get the right people reading it. :disappoin

Any decision on the battery tray area? Depending upon price I would want it.

As I recall 14" wheels work with the S12 calipers, you must move up to 15" wheels for the S12W calipers though. This is from memory so please do a quick search on here to verify (this question has been answered a few times).

Yep, that's my website. Way at the bottom is a Z-Ads directory with a few items in it, maybe one of them is something you are missing.

I've seen that one, or one with the same interior (highly unlikely), before. $2500 for a 95xx VIN car...not bad depending upon it's condition of course.

May be a good idea to post the info, I'd be interested in reading it.

Please don't hack up and destroy a series I car, especially if it's mostly original and numbers matching. As for price, the others have said it...we do not know enough about it to say. If it's got good mechanicals and no rust it's a good deal, even with a few mechanical issues or a little rust it's a good deal. If it's got a dead engine and tons of rust then it's not a good deal. Then there's everything in between. Get back to us after you've inspected it with you findings and pix.

Dave (aka: Zs-ondabrain) may have some valuable input on this as he has done extensive work with the lighting for our Z cars (i.e. relay setups for the headlights etc). Dave, any thoughts/input?

I have to rebuild an engine and I have some decisions to make. I have a rather early 1970 240Z engine (it's a spare that I'm using as the foundation of my rebuild). I am on a 'no money' budget of course, who isn't these days. With that said, I want the most bang for my buck and am not out to build a monster engine...that will come later when I have the money to throw at an engine. This engine has an E31 block and E31 head. I can do a stock rebuild on this and call it a day. Or I can pick up an N42 block locally for $50 (includes crank, pistons, rods all disassembled) and build from there. The condition of any of these parts is a question mark. They may be fine, the either block may need bored out, or some parts may be scrap metal. I also understand that the head must be rebuilt replacing the brass valve seals with steel ones (if I recall correctly); this is not optional since the brass will not tolerate unleaded gas. I have used a couple Z engine calculators to determine compression ratio. That's all well and good though this does not tell me what I'm interested in knowing. What kind of HP and torque can be expected from either of these...well mostly the latter since the former is a stock rebuild for the most part? Aslo, is there anything else I should be considering?

Most all the engine parts from 1970-1983 (240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX) are interchangeable. There are some obvious exceptions such as pistons since they are of differing sizes, etc. Though this is not written in stone since you can alway bore a block for larger pistons. In short to answer your question, yes you can do this.

You mean: E31, E88, N42, P90, P90a = Square port N47, P79 = Round port Also, if the head is original to the '83 and it is in deed a P90 variety it's going to be a P90a. What's the difference you ask? I'm glad you asked...the P90a has hydrolic lifters. From everything I have ever read you do not want the hydrolic lifters. Do a search on this topic and you should find plenty of reading material to keep you busy for a while. Also for what it's worth there were two different versions of the E88 head made, I believe that the better version was original to the '71 and '72 cars while the less desireable one came on the '73 cars. Again, do a search on this topic and you'll find more detailed info. One good resource is Bryan Little's Z Garage site: http://datsunzgarage.com/