texasz

Agreed, this is who I would suggest also. Todd sold me my set a few years back and he was GREAT to work with!! Also agreed, the Holley conversion is crap!!! The design of these engines requires 2-3 carbs for optimal fuel delivery. Period. It's simple physics and don't let any hardcore Holley person tell you otherwise.

I failed to mention that I'm using glass beads from Harbor Freight in my cabinet so it's a very fine media that a screen may not work for. I'll be awaiting to see the outcome of Will's tests. Dave, so to put this in you removed the glass put this in then replaced the glass over it? I'm also quite interested in this water filter idea, I've never seen one before and would love to know more about the construction of one once you two have completed your tests and refined the design.

Ok, I know that this is an old thread...though instead of starting a new one for the same topic I wanted to retain the knowledge shared in this one already. I'm looking for ideas on protecting the 'window' on my blast cabinet. Will has already shared the cardboard idea and then there's this one too: Do you have a link to what you bought? This is all I could find: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=252& Also, how does this material adhear to the window? Also, if anyone else has any ideas I'd love to hear them. I need something! One idea I had was clear contact paper, it's available just about anywhere including Walmart. The thing with that is that it would leave a glue residue when it is removed...I'd prefer something that stuck to the glass via static, that would be ideal.

I was just on the ZT site late last night and noticed that the DVD comes with the rebuild kit so that may be the route I take after all. I'll see if there's any discount, you never know unless you ask. Oh, and some comments got me thinking so I went back and re-read my original post and I now see how one may have thought I was asking for a copy of their DVD. I was actually asking if anyone had the DVD that would be willing to let me borrow it. My wording was a bit misleading since I used the word copy...my bad guys.

Thank you both for such a complete answer. I suspected as much about too small a gap, it was the larger gap that I really was unsure of. Once again, Dave you have really helped me. Your explaination of the stronger coil, higher economy, et al is GREAT! I had never known those things before. You can bet I'll adding this to my (very long) list of things to do to my Z. JohnnyRock, also interesting about plugs like the split fires...I thought that the spark hit both at the same time. I didn't realize it only hit one. See, you can teach an old dog new tricks. :laugh:

Ok, I know that plugs have to be properly gapped before installing. My question a two parter and is this: What happens when a plug gap is too small? What happens when a plug gap is too large?

I'm pretty sure that borrowing something then returning it is not copyright ingringement. I'd rather buy the DVD than another VCR...they probably cost the same! That's if anyone is still selling VCRs, I know they went out of production a year or two ago if I recall correctly. Than again maybe that's like the digital TV conversion...it just keeps getting pushed back, and back, and back, and.... Anyhow, looks like I'll be buying the DVD. I was just hoping to put that money toward the parts I need to get the car running properly...money is tight and the economy sux. Oh well, it is a good investment...just one I wanted to make in the future instead of now.

Well it seems as though the question has been answered...plastic it is and always has been. Just for the record, since I said I'd post pix of mine here they are. Both of these are after some media blasting on 1/2 of the item (will be very obvious). I'll have to check out the Nissan dealer and see what they want for one.

I'll post a pic of the one I have tonight. This is why I was asking, because if the metal was was not even the original then I'd certainly not spend the time restoring it. If it were the original and they are NLA I would. If you are referring to this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SEIC04A/12-4271 then MSA is the most expensive I've seen it anywhere. $30 for the tray only!!! :eek: Black Dragon has a good price on everything except the frame: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?Page=117 Banzai Motorworks has the best price for a one stop purchase: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ and click on Catelog on the left then on Battery in the top center of the screen Heck, someone on eBay is selling the tray for far less than MSA. Lesson learned, shop around for your parts.

Jeff, that would be great if you could. Shoot me a PM with how much you want and how to get it to you. That's interesting. It appears a bit large and out of place in the Z though. The question I have is what/how does this attach to the car? I see that is sandwiches around the battery calmping it between the two billet pieces though I just don't see where/how it's attached to the car to keep the whole thing from flying in to the side of the engine.

So the metal is the original design. Is that what you are saying? Where are you finding them? I have not seen anyone selling anything other than the plastic ones.

You interested in supplying the pieces? I could always get someone local to weld it up. I really like the tube you added for the J bolt, great enhancement to the design (I'd want that version of course).

Does anyone have pix of the original battery tray? Were they alway the plastic ones with a drain tube like what is available today (like the one Z Car Source sells here: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/53912/catid/7674)? I have a series I car which has a metal tray (it "had" some kind of coating, like rubbery plastic or something), it has I believe it's 6 places in the bottom where there are + shaped openings/holes. Was this OE or some aftermarket piece? I'm trying to decide if it's worth restoring or scrapping, it's VERY rusty and will require a TON of media blasting to clean up then lots of effort filling in all the rust through. When all that's done I could finaly finish it off with POR15.

No kidding! Make a dozen and sell 'em.

bump... Seriously, nobody has this DVD?

Just one more idea, I had a parts car where the head was already removed and I needed to pull the lower end and tranny. I took either a chain or strap (like a tow strap or something), I can not remember which, and ran it down one side of the block through the center of the motor mount under the engine through the center of the other motor mount and up the other side of the engine and connected both ends to the hoist. Worked like a champ!

Call Jerry at All Z Car Specialists in Ft. Worth. He'll have what you need!

Does anyone here have the ZT Just SU's DVD, the one that walks you through rebuilding the carbs, that I could bum a copy from? I have it on VHS and of course no longer have a working VCR.

Yours would be one of those transitional cars mentioned in an earlier post. They used the parts until they were gone then went to the new part...that's been my understanding from many dscussions here and on other sites over the years. Hence the mixture of newer and older parts on many of the 1971 Z cars.

I had the same issue, lots of slop on one side. Removing the half shafts is not hard it just takes a bit of patients and maybe time. I had to hit mine with some PB Blaster before the nuts would come off, spray it and leave it sit over night then the next day they will come off easier and without stripping or braking anything. Brand...you are on the right track, get good quality ones. I went with Spicers from MSA. Pay attention to what you are buying from them since they sell a lesser brand and the Spicers. I took my half shaft to The Z Clinic and had them put in for something like $50 about 4 years ago. After watching him I think I could probably do it myself next time. While you are at it you should do both half shafts and the drive shaft couldn't hurt either.

Great info guys, as usual there's always something new to learn. Thank you all.

Yep, that's about what the answer is every time this topic comes up. From Mike's post and the info you gave though it does seem to fit that this engine did come from a very low VIN Z car which is really all I wanted to know...again it makes no difference I was just curious.

It's both. Nobody really talks about the block casting code much so I had not realized this either. About the only block casting codes people talk about much are the N42 and F54.

I have a few parts in piles/boxes of Z stuff that I've started sorting through to determine what I want/need to keep and what will end up being made available for sale. Can anyone help ID the following items? I think this may be a mass air flow from a 280ZX, it has a label on it that reads A31-627 420 and under that is JECS 2402 L28 I have a hose with a part attached to it, the hose has this Nissan part number on it: 27187 P8?70. I'd like to know what this is for so I can figure out what the small part it's attached to is. I have a couple brackets that I think may be A/C mounts, the have this number cast in them: 11910 P8101 Thanx in advance everyone!!

Very good!! Thank you gentlemen, I thought that's what it was...just a little confused as I had it stuck in the back of my mind that these were not added until '73 along with several other air quality measures (i.e. flat top carbs :sick: ). That's one more part for my scrap pile...or 'for sale' list (not likely anyone wants one).