Jump to content

CaseyByrd72

Members
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About CaseyByrd72

  • Rank
    CaseyByrd72

Contact

  • Map Location
    Lexington, SC

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1972 purchased in Atlanta in Feb. '09. Sold new by **** Smith in Lexington, SC. Car sat in garage since '82. All original except A/C removed, new seat covers. Mechanical restoration began today.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I finally got her back together and on the road last week. However, i have discovered and oil leak near the front cover. The attached photo shows the area of the leak. When i was installing the front cover, i bent the head gasket because the head and the oil pan were already installed. I had to "squeeze" the front cover in between them. When i did this, the head gasket bent and crimped. I believe this may be the reason there is oil leaking now. I have a new head gasket, but i didn't want to spend the time to replace it if i don't have to. Has anyone had this problem or have an idea of where/why the oil is coming out? Also, my oil pressure is reading low, about 15% of the gauge's range. This may be due to the old sending unit. The oil seams to leak worse when the engine is off. There is virtually no sign of the leak when the engine is running, but after sitting overnight there is a small puddle under the car, about 1" in diameter. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
  2. I think I have a problem. I reinstalled my head with the #1 valves closed and the crank dowel at 12 o'clock. I set the crank to TCD with the crank key at 12 o'clock. I installed the crank sprocket with the dowel in the no. 1 location hole. This set the no. 1 timing mark at about 2:30. I installed the chain with the bright link on the no. 1 timing mark on the crank sproket which positioned the second bright link at about 4 o'clock on the cam dowel. So far, so good. At that point, the right side of the chain was slack and the opposite side, with the chain tensioner was tight. With the chain still installed, I rotated the crank sightly which tightned the chain on the right and slacked it on the left. No problem, I thought. Tonight when I came back to tighten the cam bolt to 100 ft/lbs, the cam shaft rotated sightly, enough to put the slack back on the right side. Also, I noticed the the location notch on the cam sproket is no longer aligned with the groove on the cam tower. The sprocket notch is to the right (clockwise) of the groove. Pictures attached. I don't know for sure, but this does not seem correct? Any ideas? Thanks. Upon further review it appears that the second bright link is not aligned witht the timing mark on the crank.
  3. I removed my head for reconditioning and I am in the process of replacing all exterior gaskets and putting everything back together. I need to re-install the head and I have a couple of questions about the crank position and cam position. My guide says that I must set the #1 cylinder to TDC. Can I set it without a dial indicator? When I got my head back it was re-assembled with the crank dowel in the 12 o'clock postion (more or less, see photo). In this position, the #2 exhaust valve is open and the #3 intake valve is open. My guide says that if the cam dowel is in the 12 o'clock postion then the #1 intake/exhaust valves should be closed, but it does not say which valves are supposed to be open. I may just be paranoid, but I have to get it right now, or else... And finally, I still must remove and replace the front cover, oil pump and distributor. Since I have to re-set the timing, is the distributor position important to note before removal? Thanks
  4. Got it. Good ol' PB Blaster to the rescue. That thing was 37 years tight.
  5. I tried to put in gear, but it still turns.
  6. Someone help! I'm trying to remove the camshaft sprocket nut but when I turn it, the motor turs over. I tried putting a wrench on the crank sprocket, but the engine still turns. How do I keep this from happeining? Thanks.
  7. I have removed my intake/carb assembly and would like to rebuild the carbs. I had to remove one of the float bowls in order to access one of the manifold nuts and discovered that all of the carb gaskets are brittle and junk. The carbs seem to run fine the last time I started the car, so I don't think I need to replace all of the internal parts; needles, nozzles, ect. (not to mention I am not familar enough with these parts to just order a kit to replace them if it is not necessary.) However I do feel like the gasket replacement is strightforward enough for me to try. I have a question regarding the kits that are available. Z Therepy has a comprehensive kit available which inclueds the internal parts mentioned above. The only other kit I have been able to find is from MSA, which just contains the gaskets and hoses. There is a substatial difference in cost, and as stated above I don't want to buy parts I don't need. Does anyone have experience with either of these kits or may be able to recomend another? As always, your input is appreciated.
  8. Unfortunately working on the Z doesn't pay the bills! The hose that you mention below, are they only abailable through Nissan dealers?
  9. I started out with the intent on replacing the exhaust manifold on my all original '72 but it now seems there may be more I need to do. I got the manifold off tonigh with little trouble. There are a couple of studs that are stuck in the block and a thermostat bolt sheared off in the block. A little PB Blaster and I should be able to back it out. I hope I can use the vise grips on the studs after I let them soak for a few days. I should get my headers on Tuesday. I need to replace most of my hardware and all of my gaskets. All of the original hoses will need to be replaced. I am having trouble finding replacements for the insulated hoses. Particularly the brake servo hoses. Does anyone have any suggestions for hardware and hose replacement suppliers? I have Black Dragon and MSA but they seem to lack a lot. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks for looking.
  10. Bob, That's great. Is the housing not threaded at all?
  11. Bob, Good questions. I am trying to remove the entire housing from the block. The screw extractor would grip some but not enough to back it out. I think it must be rusted in the head. We drilled into the bolt almost to the block. We haven't tried to back the second bolt out. We hope that if we spray liquid wrench a few times, it may penetrate and work with time.
  12. Hello everyone. I just joined tonight for good reason. My brother and I started working on my '72 tonight. I bought the car in Feb. '09 and before that it sat since '82 in a garage. Although the body and frame have little rust, I discoverd tonight that the bolts in the head and block are a different story. I purchased a new set of MSA headers Saturday so we began removing parts tonight. The exhaust manifold and pipe is original all the way back to the muffler. Needless to say, its pretty much garbage. I noticed before I bought the car that one of the thermostat housing bolts had sheared off. Tonight we tried to drill it and extract it without luck. I however doubled my trouble when I tried to remove the other and it sheared. More liquid wrench???? Does anyone have any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.