EuroDat

Hi, I accidently swithed the wires when I quickly connected the TIU for a photo. I noticed it a year or two later, but funny no one else has made a note of it until now. The wiring for the HEI is correct. Trust me, when I was first testing it would not rev over 2500rpm. That was because I connected the two red - green wires on the TIU backwards Working from left to right, looking at the TIU with the wires coming out from under the TIU. B - Black wire: HEI Ground. Very important. BW - Black/White wire: HEI B (battery) BW - Black/White wire: Not used. L - Blue wire: HEI C (Coil trigger "-") R - Red wire: HEI W (reluctor input) G - Green wire: HEI G (reluctor input) You can set up the HEI next to the coil if you want. Just disconnect all the wires from the TIU. You can then use the power to the coil to HEI B and the HEI C terminal can connect to the coil negative. The blue wire on the coil negative will still need to be connected for the tacho to function. Make sure you ground the HEI well. PS: Agree with you on the terminal layout in the electrical schema. I try to find a terminal that is not full. Say it has 7 wires in a 8 pin plug, then I can figure out which direction I need to look at it.

I'm getting the same error. Probably the EU authorities "protecting" us from learning too much.....

I havd been following this thread and a little suprised no one has commented yet. It is an interesting mod you're attempting and I hope it delivers the results you are looking for. Great detail and plenty of photos so others can follow. Slowly buy surely these parts (AAR for example) are getting harder to find and a possibld update to later more available parts is more than welcome.

Yes the plated version is the 240Z version. The other one is a 280Z. I think there are 3 basic models of the S30 horns and probably more finer differences in the 3. The left horn in you photo is the later 280Z version. The single metal strip bolts to the bumper shock. The right horn is from the 240Z. There is also a variant on the 240Z version, I think it came in the 260Z and maybe the later 240Z. The have the same mounting bolt pattern as the 240Z, but the bracket connects to a single bolt on the back of the horn like the 280Z. See photo.

Let see, an engine in another Z, a couple of 280ZX turbo motors and a V07 crank lying around. You know they have therapy for that kind of behavior🤣 No real experience with either option, but I'm leaning towards the turbo camp. Turbo with an aftermarket MS ecu or similar to aid in tuning. I'm also quite happy to sit on the fence and watch this develop.

Ill have a look for the old one. I had one original still in good condition to copy from. If I can find it I can get some copies done, but it will take a couple of weeks because our machinist is on holiday, and we "untrained" engineers are not allowed to play in his workshop😁

Mine dit the same thing, and I DON'T drive it hard. Ended up making them out of HDPE from work. They have been in the car since 2014. The instructions look exactly like the ones I have in my map and I ordered them from MSA.

The variable resistor on the coolant temp circuit will richen your mixture. These old analog systems are known to lean out over time. Probably not what you are looking for to pas your emissions test, but it's fun to play with and I think it's the only form of tuning you have on these old efi systems even if it's just restoring original settings.

Hi Paul, I would bypass the resistor or bridge it over if you are looking for the original look. I bridged mine in the photos. The condensor should not be an issue, it's more a noise supressor than anything else. Like Zed Head said. It could be a heat issue. You could try and mount the HEI module with the heat sink plate next to the coil. Then you have the shortest circuit to the coil and good grounds in the area. Once you know it works, then you can more to fitting the module in the original position. The HEI will get hot, and the flame thrower in no exception, but heat is not a good thing in these units. The high resistance the resisitor is generating will not let the HEI function as it was designed. Not helping. Btw: My TIU was overheating when failing. Like yours it would leave me stranded on the side of the road. A quick spray with very cold circuit cleaner would bring it back to life almost instantly. A passenger (my wife) could spray it and the engine would come back on after a second or two.

Hi Paul, It's a pity you're having issues with the TIU mod. I ran mine from 2014 up to October last year with I had the good fortune to buy a 280ZX unit. A couple of suggestions. You are running a 0.3 ohm flamethrower coil with the resistor. That coil should have 12 volts, the HEI has a current limiting function to get the maximum out of the coil. The blue wire should go straight to the negative post on the coil, or via the end terminal on the resistor, if you want to keep the original look. Not mentioned in the instruction, but check the reluctor air gap. That is crucial for the HEI because the HEI needs 0.5 volts to trigger and too big a gap will quickly drop the cranking volfage to 0.3 volts. The other thing that can give you problems is the reluctor in the dizzy. If it is old and the insulation is starting the break up, it will not generate the voltage required to trigger the HEI. When you crank the engjne, it will generate 0.5 volts and will reach around 28 volts a high rpm. That high voltage can bridge poor insulation and cause your problem.

Agrëd. My 77 was leaking through nr 3, 4 and 5 injector seals and the dip stick seal was gone.

Hi sboy. Welcome to the club. Checking vacuum leaks, you could try what was called the yogurt cup test. The original thread "Purs like a kitten" is unfortunately long gone, but this one describes the procedure well enough. You basically block the afm and blow very low pressure air into the manifold and spraying soapy water on all the suspected areas. If it is tight and doesn't leak, you can move on. Zed head is right with the AFM. It's an hands off device, it's not tunable. In fact these old efi systems are not very turnable en this JECS variant of the Bosch L-jetronic does have some known issues with leaning out over time. Vacuum leaks and things like the AAR leaking air past the throttle body are your most likely issues. Mine 77 280Z was sucking air through the dip stick when I first got it. Changed hoses and even the injector seals before I found it with a simple yogurt cup test and soapy water.

Although a little off topic, interesting thread.👍

The diff damper looks home made, but it is an original add on to reduce diff vibrations. Some people remove them thinking it is some kind of home made add on. Interesting photo. The cat has some kind of O2 sensor and an EGR take off. Do you know what is does or where the cable and piping go? The J-tronic didn't have O2 monitoring. The fuel hose is not suitable for EFI. Most stores try to sell you regular fuel hose, but these cars need high pressure fuel hose with a rating of 4 bar. The EFI runs at 2,5 bar, but the pump can deliver 4 bar. The floors look in great condition. You will know more when you clean it back to bare metal. I'm also a little amazed that the original exhaust shielding is still intact. Long time since I saw one with the shielding in such good condition.

Bart, Looking goed as always👍

Yes, that it. It's the later 1978 onwards fuel pressure regulator. It serves no purpose on the pump. Without vacuum it will provide 2,5barg and you will still need exactly the same thing after the injectors to reduce the pressure to compensate for the vacuum in the manifold. Someone probably thought the pulsation damper looked like a regulator and replaced it with one. Could have just left it out all toegether. According to the bosch FI manual, the dampers main purpose was noise reduction more than anything else and this system is basically a bosch system.

I wouldn't leave the ball out. If the washer gets the chance to spin it will weld itself to the main shaft, trust me☹ I remember a guy bringing in a seized tranny and the washer was friction welded to the main shaft, after he rebuild it himself. Our conclusion was the main nut was not torqued correctly. We had seen it in a couple of our rebuild transmissions where it became hard to use the gears and it still wanted to move forward in neutral. To make sure that didn't happen again, we torqued the nut with a homemade (workshop) tube socket that fitted over the length of the shaft. We tested it a couple of times by tightening the nut first by hand and then checking with the tube socket and torque wrench. It was then we found that by hand we were tightening the nuts to about 3/4 specified torque iirc. This is all going back to the eighties. The guy with the welded washer. The main shaft and fifth gear were a throw away, but for the rest of the transmission it was in goed condition.

If you use a P79 head on a standard N42 block that had a N42 or N47 head it will kill your CR and serverly reduce the performance. You can modify the P79 but shaving it 80 thou (2mm) use the valves from the N47 head (N42 & N47 vavles are two mm longer) and shim the cam towers. That will compensate for the 10.9cc dish in the pistons.

It looks great. I didn't expect it to turn out so good when I saw the photos in the April post. Hope it performs as good as it looks.

Hi LorenB667, Nice work and great that others can enjoy alll the effort you put in to it. You can upload wiring diagrams in the download section of this site. That would get for future use. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

Yes. It has a thin "gasket" somewhee between 80graam and 120gram/m3 paper. I made a set out of 120gr, but it was a little thicker than the original. Plenty of rebuilds showing horn restoration, only problem is that the horn restoration is buried in the rebuild threads. Just need to be a little creative with google and search through the results.

Just google Bosch 0 332 514 120 and you will find them for the Porche 912E, BMW's, Mercedes, Opels, Volvo, Peugeot etc. It will plugin and work perfectly.

A fusible link is designed to withstand an overcurrent for a short period of time before burning through where a fuse will blow very quickly at it's rating. They say that a fusable link is rated to about 4 gauges under the wiring it is protecting. Sizing a maxi fuse to compensate for the brief overshoot could result in a contant overload. Manufacturers do a lot of R&D when designing the wiringloom, but there probably is some room for "error" in the gauging of the wiring loom and the systems can be unbalanced these days with all the led lighting and lower current consuming accessories we can use. You could probably go under the original fusable link rating and not have any issues.

You might want to read the other thread Tamo had. He did more upgrades and included more photos of the voltage meter as well.

School kids use it here to make their essays for school projects. The schools are having a hell of a time trying to sort out what is done by the students and what this bot has generated. Some things fail the test quickly, a little like the statement in the first post: In 1972, the engine was upgraded to a 2.6-liter unit that produced 162 horsepower and 157 lb-ft of torque.