siteunseen

Kinda hits on my problem and maybe offers an idea. Maybe I could combine the new cylinders with the older housing and not have to bend my lines???? I originally was wondering if I do bend them, should I go behind the strut towards the rear of the car or bend them around towards the front? I really don't like the idea of going anywhere around the square 4 bolt hub? which would happen if I went towards the front of the car. Also there'd be a sharp bend at the housing where the line screws in if I went forward. I could shape a piece of clothes hanger and have 2 made I guess. Decisions, decisions, but these are MY lifes worst at the moment.

I've bought 2 new ones from rockauto.com but the hardline position is off from the OE ones. I'm going to try and figure a way of making mine screw in by bending the ends that go in the wheel cylinders. If someone had a picture of the routing they used I would appreciate being able to see how it's best done. Hopefully it's an easy job but I've never bent a brake line on purpose so I need help on this. Thanks, Cliff

Does your's have the flattened out part on the right for the emblem? Mine doesn't but the 240Z emblem fits pretty flat.

That's great Mr Blue, thanks! I'm going with the satin sheen of the rear finisher.

I'm getting my front and rear spoilers painted black on my orange 240. I like a low sheen finish but the painter called and said after he got started on them they were originally done with black gel coat. Could someone who wasn't in diapers in 1972 tell me the sheen as they remember? Gloss, semi-gloss or a satin finish? Thanks for any help, Cliff

I knew I'd seen that car in an earlier post. The site unseen wording got my attention. $1,300 to over $10,000, DAMN!

Maybe Z Car Source, Datsun 280Z Gas Filler Hose, 1977 1978 - Z Car Source

Timing?

I bought all the fuel hose and clamps from O'reilly's for around $60. I had the PEX brass fittings but you could get them at any hardware or plumbing supply shop. You'll also need the plastic rivets for your rear interior panels if you want new ones, Nissan #90909-E4100. Take your time, it's a big job if you do it right.

Here's good thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/25857-rating-factory-240z-fuel-vent-hoses.html

On my '77 there's a round plate covering the fuel gauge sending unit in the hatch, by the spare tire. 3 screws I think to remove it and check to make sure the sending unit is locked in place. It also has an o-ring that could be missing or distorted.

I put a ZX radiator in my 240, got it from Advance with a coupon code for $150. Brass and copper 3 row. Works great.

I was hoping it ran off leaves. Got plenty of those, now especially.

You'll be "walking away" now for sure.

I'm glad to hear you take advantage of the 5% code, sneaky rockauoto has you put it in a trick question box, "Where did you hear about us?" Those pads seem really smooth, not grabby at all. That could be the rotors though? My old ones were shot so anything I did was an improvement. Rears are next weekend hopefully. Hopefully you'll just need to replace the HG to get rid of your leak.

I thought "plug and play" was a marital tool. :stupid:

I bought the slotted and drilled rotors, $70 each, and Wagner ceramic pads $14. $160 from rockauto.com shipping and all. Then remanufactured calipers from Advance with a 30% coupon code, $20 each and a can of red caliper paint for $5. 4 stainless braided caliper to hardline hoses off e-bay from Apex, $50. I also bought a remanufactured 7" brake booster from rockauto.com for $106, I get $20 or $25 back for the core when I send it back. I'm very happy with the results so far but I've only driven it for maybe 30 minutes. And SUPER SORE! Sat cross legged all day Saturday. # rockauto.com has a 5% coupon code that almost covers shipping, http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com #

I bought some touch up paint from amazon.com, actually Jeff's Paint is the seller. I emailed him and told him what I had, 42 year old original paint #918 single stage. He sent me a small container and a brush, it is very close to PERFECT. $8.49 and a really helpful guy.

That's a pretty neat set-up. Are the SUs on Datsuns HS8 or HD8? I've never seen those numbers but according to Wikipedia I think they're HSs. Thanks for sharing that website, I learned something new to me.

I actually used my $50 FSM today. I didn't want to get my laptop greasy for torque numbers

Between $200 and $250 for new rotors, calipers, pads, braided stainless hoses, paint, fluid and a 1 man bleeder that actually works for $6. It takes a Village, of tools...

Engine bay looks like paint #110 but the body looks like #918. What's the sticker on the radiator support say? Just curious.

I'd love to tell him to go to Advance and get a starter, they keep them but I guess he doesn't trust businesses. Luber, that's funny.

Does their #91 grind require new springs and shorter valve stem seals? Thanks!

That'd be like buying a .357 Magnum and firing .38 shells through it.