siteunseen

Cleaned my carbs for rebuilding Saturday morning.

Will do, thanks. They have to be better than fiberglass and that's where I was headed. Actually I bought them before I found futofab's powder coated steel bumpers.

Is it April already?

You won't want to leave! Traffic sucks though.

Talked to Dave Patten at futofab.com, he said the black powder coated bumpers were a satin finish. Perfect!!! Can hardly wait to receive them and will post up pictures as soon as I can. $543 for both front and rear to Alabama.

Her 280 doesn't have all that mess, fuel injected. Finally found a good thread with pictures for reference, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/17542-treating-insideoutside-of-gas-tank-with-por15-products-and-removing-evaporation-tank/ He's deleting the tank though but still has some useful info. Here's another picture that'll make you cringe.

I bought one from rockauto.com about 2 months ago, $106 with $27 core charge so it was $92 after paying the shipping back to NY of $13. The top left nut inside the cabin took me longer to remove than installing the whole thing. You can lay a short peice of wood across the inspection lid to the front of the wipers making a triangle to hold up the brake cylinders while you're working. I had to unbolt that brake line manifold down at the bottom too. It's tough the 1st time but if I ever have to do another one I'll know the tricks. Looks like rockauto doesn't have them now, here's the part I bought. https://www.google.com/search?q=A1+Cardone+Remanufactured+Power+Brake+Boosters+53-5246&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=A1+Cardone+Remanufactured+Power+Brake+Boosters+53-5246&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8 You'll want to paint it black as it comes raw metal grey.

Seems like when I deleted mine there was a small hose going to the BPT valve? then from there to the side of the throttle body, driver's side. I had to plug that at the throttle body. Yellow circle in the attachment.

He's in Oslo, Norway. Buying the car from California's scammer. "I'm about to import a 240z from California to Norway."

I am pretty sure that article was written when Mr Gibbs son Kevin reopened the place. Now most of the cars are on their side with the catalytic converters cut out. He's crushing them pretty fast, clearing out everything to sale the land. I think it's 70 acres of oil and antifreeze soaked soil. He can't afford to clean it up so the rumor is he's talking with the county about buying it to make a transfer station for garbage, like a "dump". When I went a few years ago to look for Zs I was hiking around and out of nowhere there's this 280 sitting on top of an old 70's hippie van. I took some pics with my phone but before I could transfer them the phone fell out of my shorts pocket while mowing. You can guess what happened next, LG mulch.

Nice car to pass along to a friend. You're a fine man.

This may be why I have black plugs!

I bought all my hose at an O'Reilly's Auto Parts store. They had all the way up to 5/8" on hand. Hoses and clamps were around $60, quart of Red Kote tank liner was $30. I have hundreds of PEX fittings, so $100 and a week of time. If I can find some of the pics. Don't forget a Fram G2, $3 bucks, coming out of the tank's supply side. That picture isn't my 240s G2, thats a 280 with the G3. Nissan still has the fuel sending unit, $50. The wires going to it are what they call "nail head" connections and they are a PAIN. When you get them on slather them up with liquid electric tape. Picture: I used a 1/2" pex 90 degree for the small vent line above the sending unit. You'll need two 3/4" pex 90s for the 180 turn on the top of the tank, it's the 5/8" hose connection. I'll find a picture of that somewhere, I know it's on my computer! That box has the Nissan part number for the sending unit. You'll also need an O ring, p/n 17342-18000 Gotta go, more when I get time. Cliff

After taking some dramamine I watched the whole DVD. I quickly figured out why both my car's consoles are broken. The nozzles are stuck. Best money I've spent and my hands aren't even greasy, yet. Thanks Bruce and Steve.

Here's some Sta-Bil fogging oil for winterizing engines, it should work for your tank. I've never used it but it got 5 stars from amazon.com https://www.google.com/search?q=STA-BIL%2FFogging+oil&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=STA-BIL%2FFogging+oil&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58j69i60j69i61l2&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8

Well there's my dilemma, 2.8 or 2.4? I've got both. A 2.8 bored .030" over with dished pistons or a 2.4 with flat pistons. I'm thinking of putting the E31 on a 2.4, then working that early E88 head I bought a few months ago to put on the 2.8. Decisions, decisions.

Look at this thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/6320-are-early-gas-tank-vent-systems-simpler/ The early ones had the "T" and no tank according to this.

Man that looks good! I've got a long way to go but plenty of time to get there. Need more grinding bits and some Mother's Polish.

#16, http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine240Z260Z/FuelTank/ToAug-74/tabid/1587/Default.aspx

I don't know where you'd find that coupling but when I did mine I used brass "PEX" fittings. Any plumbing supply or hardware store should have them. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=3%2F4%22%20pex%20coupling

That's about as Obvious as I've ever read, thank you Captain!

I was going to do an E88 head but decided to go ahead and use the E31 that already had the 1.73 & 1.38 valves installed. For some reason I thought I'd save it?? Madkaw I'd love to see your's. I can get the valves out pretty easy now if I need to for the unshrouding. Might go ahead and put some shorter valve seals on there anyway, just in case the reground cam needs the room. I just got my Z Therapy rebuild kit yesterday, yea! Winter projects are moving along just fine.

I can't seem to find any old threads, "404 Not Found", keeps showing up this morning but there's alot of info on that. I cleaned my tank and replaced all those hoses a few months ago. Mine were original and hard as a rock, all cracked on both ends. There's only 1 you can get to easily, 1/2" that comes out the top driver's side of the tank. The others are a PITA but doable with the tank out. here's the only one I can find, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/24181-rating-the-factory-240z-fuel-vent-hoses/ I think replacing the hatch gasket would be my 1st attempt at getting the smell out of the cabin.

I've been smoothing the intake and exhaust ports and will be matching port sizes as soon as my gasket comes in. Does it look like the valves were unshrouded before the bigger valves were installed? I don't know myself, all I've done is read and looked at pictures so I'm guessing they were? EDIT: the E-31 was with a project car I bought so I know nothing about what was done before I got it. Thanks for looking, Cliff

I bought a Cardone remanufactured distributor from amazon.com that didn't have any numbers on the moduale. The only ones I've seen are '79 to '81 which is the E12-80 that has only one 2 spade connection on the top. The '82 & '83 has the E12-93 which has the top connection as well as another one on the side. The 2nd connection was for some sensors or something, not sure. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/36786-zx-distributor-adapter/ look at post #11 for pictures http://community.ratsun.net/topic/56630-e12-92-retard-or-no-retard/ post #2 for pics too.