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That was a huge PAIN for me! I just had bought the car and got one from O'reilly's. The stamped together one without screws. I had to take that front bracket loose, take off the fan, the bottom radiator hose and the bottom bracket to the alternator. I may have even pulled the alternator altogether! Can't remember, I got a little tipsy doing that job.

"Peckerheads",

It probably is an 86.5mm but there's a "0.75" stamped on the piston tops and I can't figure what else that could be??? I know I could load it all up and got to a machine shop and know for sure but that'll be later. I'm trying, with the help of the members like you, to know as much as I can about this motor. I like the dished pistons for pump gas and it's going to be temporary until I get the original 2.4 built up nice and shiny with the E31 head I'm gonna sink some dough ray me into, $$$. Just getting ready for the cold weather projects I've been putting off until it cools off, and it finally has down here.

If you haven't done this before I'm here to tell you Tom Monroe's book "How to Rebuild Nissan/Datsun L motors" is a must. I just got done finishing disassembly of a motor I bought a couple of months ago, when I tried getting the main bearing caps off I had a hell of a time until I remembered his tips. Use the 2 bolts as a handle to wiggle them and pull them out, use a front cover bolt on the center and rear main to pry them out with a 2x4 and a crowbar. All kinds of helpful information for $20. It's only $13.50 now, How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine: Covers L-Series Engines 4-Cylinder 1968-1978, 6-Cylinder 1970-1984: Tom Monroe: 9781931128032: Amazon.com: Books

Turns out I was dead WRONG. Bought a 240 that came with these parts to build another motor, 2.8 with an E31 head and some triple Webers. I was so excited to get the car I wasn't paying much attention to the parts that were part of the deal, car ran great as it was. So now I've measured and am pretty sure he bought .750mm over sized cast piston cups. The block was bored .030". Here's the numbers as best I could get, block bore is 3.410". Pistons measure 3.390". Top ring in the hole has a gap of .026" with a feeler gauge. Piston with top ring, in the bore looks pretty darn close, very little wiggle. I'm going to put it together with an E88 head that will have the bigger valves put in. It's an early E88 so it should have good enough compression with the dished pistons. Sound OK?

225mm and 240mm is all I've ever seen. 240mm is for the 2+2, 225mm for a coupe. Some put the 240mm in coupes, more grip surface. Sorry I can't say for sure.

I appreciate that info. I'm about an hour west of Cartersville and used to go to Road Atlanta some before they built Barber's in Leeds. I had been thinking of trying Eddie Raditz's shop, it's over in that area also. Thanks again.

I have an F54 87mm overbore block with some new 87mm dished pistons. I know that 1mm is .040" but the ring set that came with all this is .030" oversize. Is that what I need or should I get .040" oversize rings? Thanks for any help, Cliff

I got so engulfed in my first rebuild I can't imagine squeezing in a move. It's all I thought about until I cranked it.

Thank you, thank you! I really wanted to see how the wedge shaped landing was made into the fiberglass, your 2nd picture is perfect. That left end looks like an additional piece of fiberglass, hopefully my painter can sand it down enough it won't be too noticeable. I will order 1 today. Thanks again.

Those are great prices on chroming but I need to get the holes welded up and a couple of dings out first. I'm wanting to drive this car for a few years then get it painted and the bumpers chromed so this is temporary. I carried my front to a local powder coater yesterday and he told me that it's permanent, no chroming after the powder coating. Kacrow76 and Chas, you've pretty much made my decision. I needed to know that they bolted up, all the others are naked bumpers without any mounts built in. Thanks for everybodies replies, Cliff

I did the math 15 years ago. :classic:

That's what I was thinking Mr Beck. I'm just starting to get older and a little wiser with my money.

May very well be electrical, they fail when hot then cool down and come back to life. I think the easiest thing to do is clean all the grounds and connections you can. Takes about an hour and doesn't cost anything. Here's some help with it, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Dang! I wish I had room, I'd buy that and part it out. The bumpers and tail light assembly are worth a grand, easily.

Well that wasn't what I wanted. Bumpers only, no landings. He suggested I use 3M adhesive to hold the bumper to the bracket, not too keen on that. So I'm back to ask about MSA's bumpers. Appreciate any input.

Here's a thread that'll have some info. Starts at #12, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/check-out-my-ride/52534-my-new-baby-72-240z.html Likely the heater valve's leaking. Still available from Nissan. #32 has some tips on getting to it. Have fun!

Those look like the ones that came with my fuel injectors, they look as good today as the day I put them on. Not being stainless I thought they might get a little rusty but not at all in 2 years. Here's a 4 pack for $2.99, Autocraft 5/16" Automotive Fuel Injection Hose Clamp (4-Pack) AC52F15V: Shop the best Hose Clamp at Advance Auto Parts

That's going to be a lot of fun.

On the first night of real estate school, went through it with my step mom, caveat emptor "buyer beware" was a phrase I learned and often repeat. Working at a restaurant I've also learned you'll get screwed at the drive thru.

Wow! Just sent him pictures of what I have. I found his phone number googling "fiberglassfabrication" off an ebay listing. Parkway something or another in New Jersey. He said he sales through distributors but they're out of stock so he's selling direct? Thank you Steve. I wanted to ask you about my E88 head I recently bought, valves and what not. When I get these bumpers off my mind I'll send you a PM. Ramsey, NJ

That's funny. Looks to be a great car you've bought. I have those same floor mats in mine.

If someone who has purchased the 240 ones recently could tell me of the fit and finish of what they have now, I'd appreciate it. I can only find comments, which weren't too good, from 5 years ago. Hopefully they have improved. I've found some at ztrix.com but they don't have the bracket landings glassed in, you have to run bolts through them to attach. He makes them for racers. I want the smooth finish like MSA's. Thank you for any response, Cliff

Looks good to me, especially the motor. Look between the front 2 spark plugs to see which cylinder head you have, some numbers cast into the aluminum, then look on the drivers side bottom of the block to find which block you have. Here's a good read on different set-ups, Datsun L-series ZCAR engine modifications Here's the different colors, 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

Just do it on an empty stomach, HaHa. I jacked mine up, removed the tire and put a smaller bottle jack under the A arm to get mine loose. I found it easier getting behind the rotor for those 2 bolts.