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That's all I can find for the 240s and they're HIGH DOLLAR.

You will be happy, guaranteed. I'm finding the bolts for the rear bumper now, Nissan Hardbody pickup has the same chrome 3 piece bumpers. Jegs has a bumper bolt kit for $6.99 but it's a 5/16". I'll post up what I end up getting today.

That's the new chrome center strip and direct plug in, right?

I'm reading all I can about cams and cam kits and somehow or another came across this post on hybridz.org, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/ What do you think? I want to do mine the right way but if I could save some trouble and money, I'd like to.

I've ALMOST decided to get rid of my '77 280. Fresh N42 block and cylinder head with an oiler cam, can't remember the stamped letter right now, with MSA's ceramic header and premium 2.5" exhaust, completely new fuel system. Bosch pump, all new injectors, tank cleaned and sealed. It needs painting but so does the other 240 I have. So I'm thinking I'll keep two 240s instead of 1 and the 280. I'm mad at it right now! Removing the non working automatic antenna and busted my egg on the hatch's edge. Six staples. You don't want to see the before stapling photo, it's nasty.

Why can't you just buy the shorter valve seals? https://www.google.com/search?q=Fel-Pro+%23+SS72686+seals&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=MlF7VP_hE8qeggTBm4KQDg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=620

I never knew that voice had a name. "Bitchin' Betty" is perfect. My friend was beating his Mom's ZX turbo around a curve when the rears got off in the grass then caught a driveway culvert. Upside down and swimming in beer and cooler water, we started laughing when all we heard was "your lights are on, DING, your lights are on, DING, your lights are on".... She got a Buick Regal Turbo next. Ahh yeah, the 80s!

I took the plastic snorkel off, then put some screen in the opening of my air box. Pretty much the same thing without the cost. It's already in front of the radiator.

I cut two pieces 1.5" long off a heater hose I found in my hoard pile, drilled 1/2" holes through them. It's a little thick but works great. Also cut a couple of square pieces for the inside nuts and washers. I was so excited to have these new bumpers I had to make do with what I had here. I'm going to get all the right stuff someday. Shade Tree .

Great compliment on the bumpers! they really are sleek looking, mirror shine too. My buddy at Nissan parts locally is going to get me some Hardbody pickup chrome bumper carriage bolts with the smooth head and square shoulder for joining the the rear bumper's end pieces to the main section. I'll post it here. Maybe I can find it sooner at carpartsmanual.com

...to make these myself. I'm stumped. Thought about buying a bicycle tire tube and cutting 2 out.

Good feeling, isn't it! I'm having a blast tinkering with mine. I've got Memphis on my mind.

I found a part number on the microfiche but no images of it. It's number 23. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Body240Z/FloorConsole,FinisherAshTray/tabid/1769/Default.aspx

What I thought were tow hooks are actually tie down hooks that weren't removed at the dealership. I was trying to find longer bolts for them before putting them back on with the rear brackets . Luckily for the past 42 years they weren't used! Nicely painted Safety Yellow too.

I'm not a good picture taker, so they said. Here's some a little farther back. I never opened the doors today. They had some packing smears but I quickly buffed 'em out with a microfiber towel and they look back at me, like a mirror. Very happy with my new bumpers.

Here they are! Y'all better get these. Cyber Monday $306 each plus shipping which isn't bad at all, $63 for both from Connecticut to Alabama. I got them so close I don't think a playing card could slip between the bumper and body. Both sides pulled in perfect too. Rear is next but I'm going to paint the tow hooks and need to get some stainless carriage bolts to put the 3 pieces together. Not going to use the old rusted ones. Thank You Dave Patten @ futofab.com.

280s are a lot like 944s, comfortable and easier to drive. 240s are like the early 911s, a little cantankerous at first but you quickly fall in love with that. Drive a 240, the smaller gearbox will remind you of the 2 stroke bikes you like, they hit hard early. I've got a 280 that stays hooked up to a trickle charger. I've got a couple of 240s that are driven every weekend.

Here's my Cyber Monday quest.

"I see!" said the blind man. Thanks Steve.

So advancing the timing through vacuum advance is for cruising speeds, not romp on it speed? That's why everybody sets theirs to max advance to begin with?

Great news. I tried to remove the original sticker and glue it back on the reconditioned one but it wouldn't come off as a whole piece. So now it's just black. My rebuilt one didn't need any push rod adjustment at all, it was still at the right length. Have fun installing it, for me it was almost a PITA.

It was done that way by the PO. I'm guessing the vacuum advance will work properly now? That float jet should be here Friday, and if it's not raining Saturday I'm going to take it for that "spirited drive" Blue talks about when adjusting the nozzle height in his Quick and Dirty tune. I've been chasing that drive since I bought it.

I followed Dr 240Z's advice and they turned out great. Thanks again for the write up.

He's good at that! Make a Wish should've included a mechanic with his car.

So my 240's vacuum advance has been plumbed off the balance tube, manifold vacuum, right? It holds at 17 on the vacuum gauge at idle then goes down to nothing with RPM increase. The front carb vacuum has been plugged off until I rebuilt my carbs. It barely has anything until the RPMs raise then shoots to almost 20 on the gauge. The butterfly opens exposing the hole. That's the way I want it, right? Port vacuum for the vacuum advance on the distributor?