siteunseen

A little redneck er I just cut the bottom spout off my funnel, it fits the hole and doesn't wobble with those 5 quart jugs. Cost, $0. Totally off topic but I just got a Chrome warning of data breaches at thezstore.com, hybridz and some other z related sites. An FYI comment I guess. See ya.

Just curious. Everything else in my life has gone up except my paycheck.

Here's the best one to me. I used it and it looks great. Post #11 from @CanTechZ I'm not sure if it's the same for 280s though. Maybe someone will tell us?

Thanks Mark but unfortunately I can't take credit for that trick. I took the easiest route and put an extra rear lid I had and put it up front. @madkaw is the engineer that redrilled the ears. Mine are basically 3 screw 4 screws now.

@nix240z

Yes, I have the 152 on my '77 too. I read about that upgrade at the very beginning. Also turbo head bolts are a reccomended update. I don't think you can buy any others now anyway, just turbos.

It's off a little I think. The front pulley key slot should be straight up. Like this your mechanical timing would be retarded? or PC correct, "slow" coming in. Edit: I just realized the motor is tilted pretty good so maybe it's right.

Yes. You can use brass plugs to plug those extra holes for a cleaner look and less chance of the hose cracking and pulling in air.

The tight side is the one that doesn't need the tensioner. The crank pulls the chain down clockwise from the front so from the front of the car the tight side is the right or straight side.

Missing a spinged screw but that flat is OE and has to be right or your rpms will shoot up to 2,000 on start up.

You'll need a better Sawzall blade now too.

I used the Melling 152 turbo manual transmission oil pump on mine. It stays on the high side of the gauge. Seems like it was $60 in 2016 from Advance Auto. Probably a $100 now. Found on google.com... non turbo L28 (75 to 83) model M90 = 2 gallons/minute at 491 rpm turbo L28 with automatic trans model M111 = 2 gallons/minute at 491 rpm turbo L28 with manual trans model M152 = 2.25 gallons/minute at 491 rpm

Oh yeaaaah!

Nothing but sweet music from the motor, sorry but this is insane. Residential ripping. He never hits "wide arse open" though. Find a track!

I used that stainless bolt kit from zcardepot and mine leaked too. Put the OEs in and now dry as sandpaper. I had some other issues with that kit. Some lengths weren't the same and the threads seemed a little rough compared to OE.

The groove is on the rear hub facing the windshield.

What's the purpose of the weep hole, is it sad?

That's a pretty basic kit. EDIT: that's pretty much a float chamber rebuild kit. It won't get into the carb. I would find a better one if I was going to rebuld mine. I used ztherapy's and got the instructional dvd free. Zcardepot has a good one too. Here's a basic write up and video link that will show where what goes. https://www.google.com/amp/s/zcarguide.com/rebuilding-cleaning-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/%3famp=1

The shiny links will be on the same dot or number corresponding with the cam spocket and crank. Don't forget your oil slinger when you go to putting it back together.

That's the first iteration that I've seen of a fuel pressure regulator for the Zs, smaller hole on the return line back to the tank. I guess it keeps the bowls full without overflow. More in while running then excess goes back without overfilling the bowls.. I'm sure it was done before but my 1st experience with the larger in vs. the smaller outlet.

You can figure it out. We'll be here for any ideas thay maybe helpful if you ask. I've put headers on all my Zs and was always able to figure something out.

I think the over flow after the bowls are full go back to the tank through that teturn line it's a open flow circuit. It has to go somewhere. The efi cars are even more at 32psi constant fuel ptessure. Our SUs are 3.2 psi.