sjcurtis

Si|v3r72, Hey that first try was pretty close. I got to agree with 2ManyZs instal hotter plugs I run BPR5ES in my L28 as an every day runner, this change should realy aid the clean burn with a re-tune on any average to good engine. good luck Steve:classic:

Sammy1970, thanks for posting the pics, the first one is a definate special, I think you can win some beers on the number of guages in the dash. The manufacturers data plate has the engine number just above the body number. Because of the location it can be hard to read them, very hard to get with the camera, this time we failed. I always use a torch and a white envolope, when you shine the torch down the reflection of white from the envelope held below and towards the engine makes the number stand out. for ease of reading(a scribe secret). Could you try a manual read on that engine number please. I also note your engine bay is inhabited by some inpressive looking relays (lighting or fuel management). Thanks again cheers Steve

To the repair , on Sunday I had a look at mmirror remains (mirror arm) when my mirror smashed I undid the phillips screw with its washers and and the spring from the mirror case and put it back in the arm for storage. The build is two washers a spring and a phillips head screw threaded to attach in the arm on the door. good luck getting it out. cheers steve

Fred, that looks very good from an Aussie perspective, gets your intent across well. cheers Steve :classic:

abas, Sounds like you have got some hard decisions to make. I have no idea what you do or do not know about these engines. Firstly is cost a priority or are you going to keep that engine. cheapest option could be another engine. If you want to keep the block you need to get the damaged cylinder bore surveyed. You need to know what the recovery number is ( the amount of machining required to restore the surface for continuous use). Best case light hone and find a fresh piston. Worst case you are already looking at scrap. With any bottom end re-work always do more than less, always change out the bearing set, even change out the rods on the early 240 engine with a major rebore you are up for six of the oversize variety pistons. then the oil pump should probably be changed out for new(200000miles). all those corroded alloy parts should go for new. new water pump maybe. That is not all but it gives the idea. Other scenario contact a major zed parts supplier, price and availability of a rear sump L28, (hot run and with compression test data) mortgage your next palace and you are away. cheers Steve :classic:

Sammy1970, excellent , boy did I get a shock with that picture, I see what you mean by limted ADR compliance. I was impressed to see a compliance plate, I expected the Manufacturers data plate. any chance of a picture of that, or just PM me the roiginal data plate engine number. It sounds like a lot of money has already been put in on your Zed. Even the engine bay paint looks reasonable. Your Zed is the highest number HS30-00230 I have put into the data base so far for 1970. Just need the original engine number please thanks for your efforts Steve:classic:

Sammy1970, I am curious you say you have a 1970 240z are you sure, is that on the rego or do you know by some other means, can you tell me the body number also what was the engine number on the data plate in the engine bay, maybe I can tell you more. To these bigger engine instals and re-engineering to compliance I think the mainroads people are trying to keep a lid on power to weight ratio. To the round top Hitachis these are the number a great setup for the L series if you have them. They will run well on any size or build combination they are easy to set up and they will hold a tune for months if they are in reasonable condition. with regular checks and some singer sewing machine oil to keep the lube between the lines they will do the job well. To the water manifold on the round top Hitachi carbs Number one reason for this part being disconnected is a corroded tube or fitting leaking water out of the system. Check for this problem if there is no leak leave a water flow through from the thermostat housing throught the manifold around the back of the block and into the heater return line. This loop is designed to aid cold start and cold running ( others would say they are polution control but that is not the whole deal. good luck with the carbs Cheers Steve :classic:

Gee, to information what you have put in your post is great stuff if you can give me the same for your brothers Zed and your friends Zed I will enter it all in. any delivery info dealer delivery date anything at all that may be interesting or relevant, first plate number. Sounds like you have been to the same specialists as me, show you a rust bucket and tell you it is gold bullion. Red is around, a mate down the road has a 9/73 white/red Interior. Can't help with last build number. Hurleyz, Donny thanks for all your input, I hope the dealer can tell you what you want to know. Cheers Steve :classic:

GEE, that is a realy high body number for an export HS30 Z. I have a question, what is your Data plate engine number and is it Higher than L24-189875. cheers Steve:classic:

Geoff, if you had my interior you would cry, off white and badly sun burnt lots of top edges are gone and as you know light colour interior is very thin on the ground. I totaly agree you should always maintain your own plan no matter what. It is all about what you get back when you put the effort in. I guess I will get to Eastern Creek soon. My neighbor Shane went down this weekend to get some ideas on now to set his 240Z. He had a spare ticket he reckoned but I was headed for Taree. good luck with the track cheers Steve :classic:

Geoff, thats probably the right thing holding yard, or could it be the shipment allocation number for delivery to Brisbane. I wish someone could tell us. As for your interior when I saw the 110 code, I remebered the colour and condition of your interior (spotless) comes to mind. A great Zed all round. cheers Steve:classic:

Well done Hayden, that search was worth the effort, very impressive colour, great score. I hope the resto goes well. You have to post some more pics for us. Cheers Steve :classic:

g260, Geoff excellent information, great depth. Thank you. I have put everything in. Your Zed has the lowest serial I have seen so far. From memory yours has the good light interior too. I am intrigued by the Z 167, could it be Ira Berks holding yard serial. could it be one of the key codes. I wander Thanks again cheers Steve :classic:

Hurleyz, The information was good and I have put it in. To the build date the build plate is located I believe inside the drivers door opening, if you sit in the drivers seat with the door open look next to your left shoulder in the door opening and you should see the build plate. For your 240Z it should say build 5/70. I think you have got a great project. Let me know what the build plate said. good luck Steve:classic:

Hurleyz, Welcome, it is great to here you and your son are into the resto. I am sure you will both find hours and hours of enjoyment working on your new 240Z. I wish you the best of luck with the resto. If you have any tech questions on any system or part on the 240Z the guys on this site are arealy helpfull bunch, and they know a whole lot. Donny, to the production details your 240Z is a real interesting case because it is a 70 the body serial and the engine serial can be crossed up. So before I put the information into the data base can you tell me the following in order please. HLS30 - L24 - Build date - - /70 Trans - Exterior Colour Interior colour This info set out like above will let me put it straight in the data base. Cheers Steve :classic:

Rick, I have been collecting a few numbers as you know and it appears that HS30-001224 was buit in 08/71. This is based chassis numbers behind and infront built in the same month. Can you complete the engine number from the nissan data plate in the engine bay L24-05XXXX. cheers Steve :classic:

abas, Hi Andrew, Welcome. If this mirror is what I am thinking it is, you are not going to be to happy. On the inside of the mirror case the stud has a tensioning spring, with the mirror reflector in position you will not be able to confirm the health of the spring hence no retension unless you get really lucky. If you know someone who is a metal forming specialist / coach builder you will save damaging the edge removing the mirror, that is the key. if you are prepared to fit a fresh mirror surface you may save the day if you can relock the new mirror clean. I wish you luck. I see you have 2 Zeds are they both HS30's. cheers Steve :classic:

Sammy1970, I think the best thing you can do is, if you are in Adelaide is go over and visit Ben, He knows a hell of a lot obout turbo and the 240Z. One afternoon could advance your cause by a whole heap. All the information Ben is offering is on the money and yes as he stated F54/ P90 is an Australian Delivery Combo (NA) in the pre 88 Patrol. As to turbo combination you can get the power you are after with any L series 240/260/ 280 combo, the diffrence is for how long. good Luck Steve :classic:

Gav240z, I am sorry to hear this story. The smoke consideration is the key here, as alluded to by Zedrally it is probably the major problem, to me if the blue smoke is constant and not effected by rpm or load, I think it is more serious probably holed or destroyed a piston or at least scored the hell out of a bore when something impacted the rings and shattered them. I hope I am totally wrong. I wish you the best of luck with the recovery. Steve

1 Bravo 6 Excellent Rick, I am so glad that "Precious" was available when you were looking. you gained so much for the price. I have added the tools in, thats the most info for one Zed. Thanks again. Does anyone out there have information I am after your production serial number, the data plate engine number the date of production,certification or first registration of your HS30, RS30 GRS30 or a fair guess. I will input all colour interior colour and special information you wish to share. so it will look like HS30-102660 L24173261 06/73 M Australia NSW SYD date 17/07/03. One variable is M for manufacture C for certification (ADR) R for first registration Anyone Steve :classic:

I think you will find for your question who supplys Tokico in AUSTRALIA the ANSWER is most probably nil ,no one, non. I am sure they pulled out of the aussie market, you may have to buy from the west coastof the US or somwhere in Europe. Watch on EBAY as well. Look at the website in the states for all the info you need i think it should be easy to deal with the US based Company. Good Luck Steve Tokico Gold/ King springs and loving it.

1 Bravo 6, Rick that is amazing, I will put the first number in for reference as for the rest I will put them in except for the one you are driving on. looking at the capitol document rego and the RACQ numbers HCW423 and HCN473 are the same PLATE. I suspec the second numbers are good for the age. I want to see this info set up with "Precious" at a show one day. one day. Cheers Steve :classic:

I recommend ram air ducting. I am running a 77-78 280Z filter housing base with standard plumbing back. I removed the top section of the filter housing, you know the bit held down by the three butterfly bolts and fabricated a stainless clamp to hold the filter in, breathing good cool ram air. always loves cold days and late night running, winter is great. Oh and like LanceM above a hundred is much better again. Good Luck Steve:classic:

As for the tunning I was so successful. I now run fuel injection it is the best. The trick to the Hitachi is to get the balance right keep the oil good, make sure the both valves weights fall at similar rates, also check that the chokes lock off when you push the lever down. (take a breath). Did I say I lifted my Hitachi's and manifold of in 1991 and injected my L28 from then. Hitachi's can be great if you can get them right. The set you are getting are the best. How soon for details and pics of the new one. Cheers Steve :classic:

If you have an older engine (passing mid life). why bother with optimax or LRP just give it ULP. You will not notice any real decay in condition and it will run well if you tune it too suit. This will give you time to progress your other projects before any real effect will be a problem. Did I hear a new or extra Zed. Cheers Steve:classic: