sjcurtis

BartZ240, When NISSAN built the Z they already had an established practice of manufacturing sets of locks/ lock barrels and keys for each vehicle. In your situation with no delivery documenation and no original keys, there is still another option. All Datsuns have a master barrel assembly in the door locks. Either the lh or the rh door locking barrel that you put the key in will have a set of code numbers stamped in it. with those numbers a good key cutter can cut a key to the correct profile. This fix will cover both doors and the hatch and the glove box I am not sure about the fuel cover, on Australian Z's this is a standard feature so it would be covered as well. As for the ignition barrel I can not offer a solution if the keying is diffrent. Hope this Helps Steve :classic:

Agree C production thats where it got started, a lot of other diffrences in those engines to run the high octane fuel. I dissagree with the rational that repositioning the cam within the three dowel hole range will affect operation adversly when utilizing poor fuel grades as legislated in by the State legislators, a lot of other engine build considerations come into play. I do not know what restriction or fuel you are running so I can not advise there. To my own situation my cam is a standard profile "smog" Z cam set up to position three, all gear was as new at engine build. My last smog test on this engine was CO 2.11% and HC270 PPM with unleaded about 87 Octane fuel and that was carried out under full test conditions by the Pollution Control Commission of NSW. I was well within optimum range and the engine was passed as acceptable. I hope that someone can advise you guys for the California Requirements. Good Luck steve :classic:

what if the box does not bolt up I am not up on the Pintara boxes as I do not know the engine series they are using is it Z 20. I do Know that the R31 Six is an RB series and I was told that the RB and VG series engines will interchange boxes, because the attach patterns and imput shafts match. How does that go with the L series And Z series. I think this is an issue as well, just becuase if it can go wrong it will. cheers Steve:classic:

It sounds like you have an L series engine about to go for the long rest at boot hill. With that breather problem, your crank case is pressurising, so you will be better off fitting a hose and jar set up to the hose, or run the hose down the outside of the engine so excess oil can flow off when you back off. for the spark plugs, spark plug cleaners are like sandbasters that you direct the flow into the coked up end and blast until clean. you can do this as much or as little as you like with each plug. re-gap you plugs at every removal and if you are pulling plugs alot use the TQ wrench so you don,t screw a thread as well. The situation sounds serious and these are all short term fixes. If I where you I would start planning a strip down and repair or find another engine. good luck Steve :classic:

looks like you got some good information. Can I just add, set up on position 3 if it is not to late,The L series Six loves it there for some reason the four cylinder l series engines like position1 and position 2. The v notch is good up high on the slot like that if the rest of the alignment is good. cheers Steve:classic:

Those 2 keys on E BAY. From what I have seen in Australia. The left is identical to the single key from the 69 model 510 delivered in Australia. The right key is identical to the ignition Key for 71 / 73 240z. cheers Steve:classic:

Alfadog, be careful, there are Bluebird boxes and Bluebird boxes. Due to the local build and import mix in the Bluebird range in AUS you are going to find a mix of boxes all called five speed. In your case may I recommend that you source, either B series Z box or B series K box as you Know the two boxes have diffrent ratio sets, but you should end up with a box that will match your car and tail shaft spigot and not cause problems. Dont rule out all those Skyline boxes that came behind the L series engines in the 80's. Cheers Steve :classic:

Thanks to KATS for the original post. It is good to see that in the life of the S30 significant information can still be found by the dedicated investigator. I have enjoyed the good level of banter, mixed with the uncovering of fact that this post has produced. Great Photos. I am confused in a few areas but I guess the first question must be ( to anyone). 1. In the context of this thread does E mean HLS30. and 2. Does the HLS30 designation cover all of the LH Drive S30 build. Regards Steve :classic:

1 Bravo 6, from what I can see Precious is looking fantastic. Please post more pictures. We all know your hard work and dedication has produced something Special. We all want to view Precious extensively. Please give us more opertunity to comment on the many diffrent aspects that make up this superb Z. Waiting for more pics Steve :classic:

WOW, I got of the side on that one. Great explanation Guys. appologys Steve:stupid:

The injection System and the engine all can be fixed, good that you saw it run from the clutch start, as that is a good sign. The part number on the computer will date the injection system, and allow you to chase any parts you may need. The forging mark on the block just above the sump attach point passenger side down below where the distibutor is. You must have seen the casting mark for the head on the drivers side of it. Take some digital pictures if you can get a camera, stick them on your hard drive for when you do the instal in the 2 seater. Please post a pick of the engine bay if you can. Steve :classic:

MakDiesel, I think what the guy was meaning by the statement is that it is the distributor for a 1981 or1982 ZX set for 8.2 degrees BTDC at 700 + or - 100 RPM. For the 240Z still set it up with standard timing position 10-17 degrees BTDC depending on fuel and altitude. its going to be around 15 plus with this particular distributor. hope that helps cheers Steve:classic:

two_fourty_zed, I dont understand your problem with ADR'S. What model Z are you running. If you are going to run injection on your engine you cant really go wrong when it comes to getting power out. If you have built up the engine in such a way you will have to check your measurements to work out where your compression is going to come in for a given block/head combination,N42 is probably going to be the main contender as it will provide tracktable power with injection on nearly all combinations. Post any problems you get along the way as a lot of people can help with the injection and tweeking. My2c Steve :classic:

Zedrally, my sentiments to. If its all alloy and the weight is low and aft of the crossmember imagine the posibilities. It realy does look like a great fit. cheers Steve :classic:

Drunkenmaster, if this Z has an injected engine with a p 90 and it runs, grab it. Any block combination with a P90 bolted to it will give you what you want if it runs and sounds strong. Even if it has been sitting and the head has internal corrosion you can still repair it. I have run an L series/ p90 injected for 10 years, believe me, you wont regret the buy. go for it. Steve :classic:

Drunkenmaster the 2+2 is not a bad option to get you 90 % up to the mark. Forget the obvious differences, look at the positives every component on the car uses attachment hardware you can use. all the hidden stuff fans, mechanisms heater aircon steering indicator stalk,,, endless list. Sure you will have to source some parts ( very small list). The Best thing ready accessible pre fabricated repair sections and correct grade of metal for sheet inserts and strengthening. EFI is a bonus. sorry for ranting in the positive. cheers Steve:classic:

After looking at the two pictures already posted, they both look like 90 degree blocks. I think either engine will present similar fabrication problems no matter what systems you are looking at. Are both engines all alloy. How much does the fully dressed engine weigh in comparison with the L series. cheers Steve:classic:

Z Kid, Two finishes, gold or silver on the same type of mag wheel. I think the earliest version had the silver type finish, the gold was then introduced along side it later. Yes the epoxy was sh**, a good steam clean could bring the wheels up looking patchy. cheers Steve:classic:

jmead, I would like to offer a few additional tips to what Jeff is already saying. If you changed the throttle body, could you have upset something else when you did the job. It may be as simple as a wire loose on a plug, I think your full throttle switch could do with investigated along with the airflow meter. I think your pop and associated shut down could be a very lean mixture and faulty air flow meter operation. You may have to do some work on the airflow meter to increase the fuel to air ratio allowing a better burn rate. let us know what you find. my 2c Steve:classic:

The mag wheels you are talking about where an option item like many other items for the 260Z, they come in silver or gold depending on the age of the zed. the most common delivery was on the fully optioned up 260z 2+2. I cant remember to many 2 seaters with them on. most of the aftermarket stuff was bigger so serious people soon ditched them (rim size correct offset 14x5.5). As for steel wheels and trims Dealers are the main culprits for muddying the waters on standard delivery fit as they would send a whole shipment of zeds into the shop and d*** them up with fresh mags and such to boost the base selling price. Capitol motors at Burwood to name one. cheers Steve :classic:

I like the finish, good all around package, needs the standard bonnet though. my 2c steve:classic:

drunken master, definately an R200 ( probably open center) it is one of the features of the AU version of the 260Z Coupe. Z kid, take the plunge. The R200 is worth the effort. If you can get your hands on an R200 for that price with a full size LSD inside, go for it. I got mine back in 93, had it in storage because I wanted to rebuild it first. I was told simply don't fix it if it ain't broken. I changed the drive shaft seals LH & RH, the rear seal and flushed the internals. New circlips on the half shafts and still going hard now. cheer Steve:classic:

Gav240z, Yeah you are right about the hole theory some do come with the air hole in the boot to spot them bursting at the bottom. Dont even think of the cheap ones, I saw some that where in two months and they where flogged out. The dry graunching sound is normally a dry uni and when that dry noise is associated with a skipping motion thru the lock both ways is a stuffed one. Are you sure your rack mount bushings are stuffred are there bits hangign out get someone to turn the wheel while you look also listen for th noise I bet its at the strut base. cheers Steve:classic:

Datman 260Z, welcome this is about the best place for someone getting started in Zeds. The guys who are members of this site really know about the 240Z and the 260Z. There are people from the West on the site and also a lot of people around the world who can help you with just about anything. I am sure someone from Western Australia should be able to help with contacts and suppliers. Glad to meet another Zed owner. good luck Steve :classic: