sjcurtis

Rusty1, can you please tell me some production information for your Z eg colour, interior colour, manual, auto, aircon , engine type and engine number number. so I can put it in the register for GRS30- you can send it by private message if you want. your Zed is early 74 build and the engine number should be about L26- 46995. cheers Steve:classic:

Rusty1, You are the owner of the sequence NUMBER 692 for a Right Hand drive 2+2 Export Model. Thier are a whole lot of diffrent production line sequenses for S30 series Z but only one for GRS30 cheers Steve:classic:

So are you guys saying that the all rear spring compression rate for super low is higher than it should be or have they sent 2+2 rear springs packaged as 240Z/260Z 2 seater. Did anyone confirm free hight then compressed hight as a check durring install. I think I will be after a new set at 200LBS front and rear and I am not sure if super low or low will be better as I want to have some flex when it is squeezed in tight. cheers Steve :classic:

stevegee, sounds like you have the basic L24E Aussie Skyline engine sold in Aus from 80/81-85 when ADR polution control took them out of Skylines. I am agreeing with Ben on the head, sounds like someone either cooked the original or was after a big valve upgrade to the L24E it should have an E88 late series injection small valve head (standard) with a cam profile (248/248). For interest sake what is the serial number of the L24 block, 240Z blocks finish at about L24-188200. I expect a number a lot higher in sequence. The L24E should of had a " Middle Sump"( normal Z possy is Rear Sump), that was probably changed out when it was installed in the 280ZX. What you have is an engine combo that will definately please if you drive the rev range and keep it on power. the L24E breathing well does hummmmm. My2c Steve:classic:

Z-point , HS30-01342, is definately a 1971 build, most probably mid to late September, to get any closer than that you would have to use the engine number, and some of the other fittings to cross reference. The glove box hand book would seal the issue if it has been dealer tagged, and in existance. My 2c Steve :classic:

Hi all, I just like to add my 2c here I suffer the same intermittent type (seasonal failures) I have got so use to the different fuses going off line that I just go straight to the culprit pull it out spin it around after inspection and refit to the same position. I have also had the situation when apply fan (no operation) re install fuse (nil op), leave the selected position on the fan switch and as you say presto starts working when ready. My fuel injection control circuit relays have two fuses piggy backing the fuse boxes and every so often when the ignition is turned to on no fuel pump, fuse out fuse in presto, pump on and start. I think the major short fall in this is the fuse type however they are known and easy to access. I will be very inteested in what is at the bottom of this maze. cheers Steve:classic:

To all, My source worked (sales) at Capitol Motors in Johannesburg (South Africa) in the early seventies. And It appears that all Zed sales where special order imports based on the RH drive platform. sales numbers where very very low figures of a dozen or so is all. Not sure about the badging but I posed the question as " what can you tell me about 240Z sales", they would have been prime for the HS30 with the Traffic Rules/MOT, roads and fuel at the time. I would not be suprised if some of these Zeds where very high spec items. cheers Steve :classic:

brake handle just visible. compliments to NISSAN AUSTRALIA. cheers Steve

Luke240z, are you going to put some pictures in the gallery, can't wait to see what your 71 240Z looks like. Is your Zed an early or late 71, is it manual or auto. You will do well with KYB they make a good honest product that is built tough. good luck Steve:classic:

For the interest, the AUS delivered 350Z has the park brake handle on the passenger side of the tunnel. So that would mean it is exactly as the S30 to hard to change over in orientation for difrent markets. my2c cheers Steve :classic:

This one is for the guys from NZ. I was looking through the trader and spotted a 1972 240Z for sale for NZ $13000.oo. has anyone seen this car or know any of its production information. for your interest: www.trademe.co.nz cheers Steve:classic:

Mr C, go for it, I am in agreement with Nick I got all mine in Sydney a long time ago for all Sway bar, steering rack clamps steering universal and all four Tockico chrome bump stop positions. No adverse affect. To the rear sway bar if you are going to support a standard setup find a 260Z coupe rear bar not the (rancho wagon) type it is bent wrong and will not fit. I Also HIGHLY recommend Andrew RESTORERS HOT LINE he will go the extra yard to get you what you want. Cheers Steve

Mr C, oops big square fingers

This sounds promising, you may get away with just clipping it back on, worst case you have both pieces and one weld line to come. They normally crack and vibration does the rest, with you ending up with 2 pieces if you atre lucky. I have six doors and only three of these suckers. good luck cheers Steve :classic:

You have found a common problem with the door glass, some do not last to long the bracket cracks and the whole lot goes crashing down inside the door. Durring my last rebuild, I had one dead on the passenger side, could only get one for the drivers door so I had to get it modified to fit the passenger side. If you can identify no damage, a good clean and lube and re install. Position for installation is under the external weather strip about 8 inches from the front, you may have to pull the other one up to get a good reference it just clips down on the ledge and pushes lightly in against the glass and stops rattles. hope you understood that cheers Steve :classic:

With this Zed I think you should look at the engine. The engine number is found on the right hand side of the engine. Below number six spark plug you will see a flat surface on the engine block witht the numbers stamped or ground in in this case it should start off L26 - XXXXXXX the X represents the serial number. You may need a torch and a clean rag to see the serial number clearly. The serial number on the plate will be your body number, this number is also on the firewall at the rear of the engine bay above the brake master cylinder, sometimes hidden by wiring and washer tube. worth a check to see what is stamped there. Cheers Steve

Hi all, this Zed is rare due to its age I would say mid 78 and sequence number is high, some points of note: 1. charge light 2. engine type not serial number indicated on the data plate 3. non inertial seat belts. 4. no eyebrow indicator/parking lamp under the front bar, 5. front bar indicators Any chance of letting us know the engine serial number. can you please look at the white tag on both seat belts as you may be able to give us a production date from them. can you also tell us which county you are in and what is the nearest city. Thanks Gav240z cheers Steve:classic:

ROOPZ, you have a black lead from the coil with a two pin plug clipped to the distributor on the forward side ( nearest the fan), it is the ignition wire from the coil. now you now what I am talking about I have one question and I think I am probably right is this lead hanging below the intake air pipe from the Air flow meter, if so it is to heavy and occasionally will give a bad contact. Run this wire over the inlet plumbing and make sure the crimp inside the plug engages firmly and your problem should be gone for good. cheers Steve :classic:

I have to agree with Gav240z, the compression is lower range but they are in good percentage across the cylinders. Another hot test is not really warranted, and it is a frustrating job hot. 2ManyZs suggested a cold retorque on the cylinder head bolts, did you get that one done. I supposed lastly I would get it hot and see if I was happy with the power, If it is thumbs up with no leaks problem solved. cheers Steve :classic:

Once you have the ignition timming set correctly, the area to focus for idle speed adjustment is to possibly, two valves on the throttle body end of the inlet manifold, as to the position and type this is market and engine specific, to easily identify to you where to adjust you need to post a picture of the area where the throttle body intake attach, taken from the passenger side of the car. Then better assistance can be offered. cheers Steve :classic:

Hi Guys, this looks like mixture theory 101 BACK FIRE - thru the carby = "lean mixture seeking Fuel". AFTER FIRE - thru the exhaust = "rich mixture seeking Air". These two theories apply to normally aspirated carb & injected and both types of boosted engines using a 4 stroke cycle. My 2c cheers Steve

I would say that another place to look, is look at the electrical side of the cold start(warm up circuit). as you may not have a good connection electricaly to the thermite switch under the thermostat. The book items for to high or to rough idle are: air regulator, fuel pressure, injector leak, cold start valve leak. cheers Steve :classic:

This hight issue, I am sure the home market S30 model had an extra seat carriage assembly that extended the forward reach and also provided a higher ride position. Maybe this factory item is still available somewhere. good luck Steve :classic:

when the oiling of the engine is what you want to achieve, I normally pull the plugs and squirt engine oil in each of the bores let it sit fo about 15 minutes or so the oil moves around the edge of the piston, use this time to prime the carbs and fuel system using an electric pump on the engine side of the engine driven fuel pump when the fuel filter is full of fuel continue pumping for 20 seconds. restore the fuel plumbing to normal check the time. Crank the engine for 5 seconds, install the plugs. Quick scan of the engine for tools and disconnected bits all good fire it up. all being equal you should have arunning engine in seconds. my 2c Steve :classic:

KEINsm, have a close look at the breaker points in the distributor, sounds like you have a burnt set of contacts that may be catching or sticking in operation. The problem of hitting the rev limiter can also be the contact breaker points, if they are burnt out of phase or the return spring is weak. My 2c Steve :classic: