sjcurtis

Zvoiture, Now those two pegleg inserts are a sweet look,love the sign writing on the case. I am sure they will be Dynomite under pressure. good luck Steve :classic:

Have you had the throttle body apart from the manifold, if so recommend pull it back off and use formagasket on the mating surfaces refit tightly and whipe off the excess. Cheers Steve :classic:

I do not like that answer, it sound s like all the air settings are screwed up, the adjustments are way out allowing the ngine to run without the oil cap. The oil splash is fine. All I can say here is, you will have to inspect all of the hoses for loose clamps and possible splits also you should have an EGR valve at the end of the intake manifold near the fire wall (it will look a bit rusty around the base), it may not be fully seated (light tap with a small hammer) very gentle. It may be coked up in the seat area below the valve. The fix may be confirming some issues with the temp sensors circuit then adjusting meterd air down to normal when system hot. sorry I am not around the corner, we could probably sort it out in a day. cheers Steve :classic:

drunkenmaster, Thanks for that update, Iwill put all of that in even the 2+2 information as they help in lots of diffrent ways with dating and option /colour trends and such. to the shell I take it this is a goer not being scrapped. "GOOD" is the data plate still there with the factory number for the engine. I will chase you up later about the 77 RS30. i take it from your comments that the 2+2 has a few diffrences, can you expand. Cheers Steve :classic:

drunkenmaster, I have entered all of the information, as I see it two are 1974 and the other probably1977 compliance, can you expand the information, compliance dates, original data plate engine numbers, exterior colours, interior colours, auto or manual ,aircon , mods and such Cheers Steve :classic:

I can only talk from my experience, if you run 225 on a 14X7 rim use them at both ends of the Zed to keep it all equal, reduce the twitchines. If you run reasonable compounds the 225 grip will assist you in departing from the crowd smartly on demand. good luck Steve:classic:

Okay, what you are dealing with. 1. With the engine running at the elevated idle rpm you have an inbalance in the metered air. this inbalance can be from a number of causes, and you have to chase down each possible until all are elliminated, and the correct idle rpm is restored. 2. You also have what you call un-metered air, this is outside air entering any part of the system and in the worst case causing uninitiated engine shut down. The disconnecting of the hose to the center of the rocker cover allowed unmetered air into the system, removing the oil filler cap will do the same. So now it is metered air and the trimming of metered air you need to concentrate on. cheers steve:classic:

It started with TELL ME YOURS I WANT TO KNOW your 240Z HS30 production details. I would like to know the details of your Z, If you have an export model RH drive HS30, RS30 or GRS30 let me know as I want the production details to build a register. My intention is to capture as much information as possible as quick as possible To achieve this goal I need all of your help. I will not include any ownership or suburb detail just nearest city state and country that you reside. To the information. Production body serial number, Data plate engine number Date of production, date of ADR certification or Date of first registration. Original Colour, Colour now, Original Interior Colour, manual or Auto Condition and use. So it would look similar to this HS30-102660 L24173261 06/73 Compliance Manual 110 Red Beige/interior fair condition registered daily driver. mods mags & efi Sydney NSW Australia 12 Oct 03. One variable is date of: M for manufacture C for certification (ADR) R for first registration. Please send in information. Thanks for your input Steve. :classic:

Okay got that. The small hose if you blank off the manifold and the hose what happens. Cheers Steve :classic:

unfortunately the manifolds and throttle body combinations are in the magnitude of about five diffrent combinations. for the age of your Z, I would expect the Bymetal valve (air bypass). Sorry if my previous was confusing. if you lean into the engine bay from the passenger side look for a valve just to the rear of the TB, it has two black hose and an elec loom connector attached, it is attached to the manifold by 2 10mm bolts, at the TB on top the closest hose to you goes to the center of the rocker cover from the TB the next hose over on the TB goes to the airbypass valve. isolate this item (either diconnect the elec or blank hoses). cheers Steve :classic:

Suggest blank the air bypass on the manifold, this can be a bymetal or a black elec initiated valve, if you have the black valve it will be directly below the throttle valve body, just diconnect the loom plug. If you have the bye metal valve it will be on the upper side of the inlet manifold, near inlet runners 1,2,3 with black hoses to it, blank the hoses. see if your rpm stabalises lower. cheers Steve:sleepy:

To all, the highest AUS VIN in the register so far is HS30-103731 10/73 Compliance in Victoria, do you know of a higher serial. cheers Steve:classic:

Does your engine return to 900-1000rpm when the engine reaches "normal running temp" with the timming set to the book positions. Could it be that your warm up system is working efficiently. cheers Steve :classic:

Thanks for the information on your Z's. as you know I am accepting any infor mation you wish to share. I would realy like to know engine numbers as well and if it is original (on the data plate) original colour/ colour know and original interior colour/colour know also any special mods or delivery type detail. To the question of colour batching I had HS30-102660 and HS30-102665 both 110 red one with beige interior, one with black. cheers Steve:classic:

To those bar mounted indicators, they are what gives identity to a 73 HS30, yours is an AUS spec Zed not UK spec as yours had the white parker lights below the bar from the factory. your indicator wires to the parker lights have been turned back at the factory. If you check the bulbs in the under bar parker they normally have dual filaments fitted. if you check the connector plug you will see the main loom plug has a pin missing this is the one that is taped back. If you decide to remove the bar indicators all you need to do is remove the indicators from the bar disconnect the looms go to the under bar parking light loom plug, take the taped back wire and push the pin into the vacant position on the main loom plug and you will have indicators and parkers at the below bar lamp. Then pack the dirty old bar indicators up and post them to Newcastle you know Steve's place, all donations graciously accepted. cheers Steve

yes it is the third listing in the last few weeks for this one. oops I aint no ebay junkie. I have been asking questions of the seller, three times. No prizes what questions I have been asking. My policy is I dont bid until I know what is on offer, I still did not get to bid. I hope the seller gets back to me soon, before it goes off again. cheers Steve :classic:

halz, got the date. To date 85 plus HS30- Z's across the production years about 50 260Z/260Z 2+2. Still after any information people want to send in. Cheers Steve :classic:

halz, now that is a real pleasure see, this photo realy shows of a smart looking Zed. You got the shipping address wrong thow, all late 73 Zeds go to Newcastle on the East Coast deliver to Steve. just kidding. Gav240z, just thought I would pay out on the comment, but then I walk into my garage on a regular basis to, look, smile and go back to what I was doing. They are just the best, and ONE is called precious, lucky Rick. cheers Steve:classic:

CZCar, Hi welcome. I hope you find what you want on this site, there are a large number of people who know a lot about the classic Z and information in all things Z. What you have here is a site full of like minded people. For anyone to assist with issues about your Z It is important to identify what you have. Can you look in the engine bay for a manufacturers data plate. On the data plate you will find similar prefix to those related by HS30H. So the information brakes down to chassis number and an engine number, these two items if complete with prefix letters will instantly identify your Z. I think you can probably get answers to any of your questions once we all know what we are looking at. hope this helps you Cheers Steve

LanceM, I understand the function of the item you have described. I have always known this item to be mild steel that has been cad plated and the ball bearing lock one piece spring steel. I would love a dollar for every one of these I have stripped lubed and rebuilt. Sounds like you have got the best fix working. Hope you have many trouble free miles. cheers Steve :classic:

LanceM, I have come across these plastics used on the internals of the factory distributor. My experience is mainly with the digital mapping distributor on the RB30 engine, the plastic in this case was a bearing shield. the bearing shield has an important job as it protects the electronic sensory equipment from the fine dust and such that is cause by the bearing in motion. primary cause of failure is normally heat. Nissan normally sell the new bearing and plastic shield as a kit. also if you find the dead bearing and plastic shield it is usually because the sensor module packed up causing you to wait for the tow truck. I am not sure exactly how the plastic failed in your distributor Lance, but please check the bearing as it could be on the way out if we are talking the same piece of plastic. cheers Steve :classic:

240znz, Have you confirmed the leak is from the head gasket area. the pre heater plumbing in the intake manifold is susceptible to corrosion. A leak onto the block on the left hand side at six could be a leak from the rear pre heater hose fitting, dripping onto the block. A leak at six right hand could be the rear head hose adaptor leaking down and staining the block. Non of the above is very likely, when it is happening at the same time, but like Gav240z is saying check every thing before pulling it up. Be very careful with that temp getting to high, when it goes its all gone. I hope you sort it quickly. cheers steve:classic:

Zvoiture, great effort, working thru the frustration. thanks for following it to conclusion. I think we has all kinda thought that Tockico was doing something like that, we know the facts now. To Tockico being another manufacturer stopping production on parts for early series Z, not yet( for USA) so glad to hear that. I wish they had stayed in the AUSTRALIAN market, they pulled right out of the market and we are limited to inporting these fine strut inserts. And we will!!!!!!. Cheers Steve :classic:

Walkingpig, yes if you have information on any RHD 240Z 0r 260z Zeds I am definately interested. please forward any info: Body no, engine no, colour in and out compliance details even extras. cheers Steve :classic:

Those photographs are amazing. thank you Kats. cheers Steve:classic: