Patcon

Sorry, missed that...

Can you just make one from a couple of choke cables units and get the throttle knob from Nix240z?

I will look on Saturday..."Toys" are good Oh I meant "tools"

Maybe Zcars or someone North of the border has some...

For the chimney, I have a parts car that is gonna get cut up anyway. I have a plasma cutter, probably a ten minute job. I took the plates off the parts car, I would get a set off a donor car

Do you need the chimney? I sold those plates to someone, I don't think I have any more but I would think someone on your side of the border could source some for you. They are normally not that rotten. the metal behind them is normally what's gone

It would be great to locate another source for a workable rubber part. If the Porsche part fits I bet there is another manufacturer who used it also that would have less premium applied to the cost

Inside the left quarter panel behind the interior plastic panel. Down low inside straight below the power antennae

I would say denser coil count equates to higher spring rate

Love PO's! How are you gonna repair the fresh air intake? I would drill out the 6-7 spot welds that hold the sheet metal rain cover over the intake. That will provide some room to work. If you need a new intake I can see if I have one you can use. I would probably use a body panel adhesive versus trying to get in there to weld it back. It is very confined with out opening the cowl all the way up

Are you testing at the sensor or at the ecu?

This may be the problem. Try a set of overbore rings or mic the piston to see if it's already over bored...

Have you tested the shielding on the sensor yet?

@Blue Ditto!

Unless your car needs a lot of work, $11k is not even close...

The real question is what is a properly restored Scarab worth?

In Texas, probably 30-40k. If you found the perfect guy, 25k..

I might have one. Do you have a picture of what your looking for?

Yeah, I like that. I would be in the market for one of those but I am afraid I might cuss a lot trying to work on it...

Who's who in this picture?

I am using a spray bottle from Depot. I keep the spray broad or it will wash off the chromate. I try not to spray them too hard or too directly... Yes, the plating bath is 110-115dF I did at first, but lately they are at room temperature probably about 80dF I am using a cheap aquarium pump from Harbor Freight. Moves the liquid around but no bubbles I am using some Muriatic from Depot at about 3 water : 1 acid I have been. I add a little every time I plate. I am unsure if it helps or not. I don't ever get bright plate like some people do.. Not yet... I haven't had any parts come out in a way where I needed to do more... 5 gallon bucket with about 3 gallons of fluid. I had 1.5 gallons but upped it to make it easier to run larger parts or longer strings of parts... I am running 2 of Caswell's plates, 4x8 on opposing sides of the tank Nope. They are dark when they go in and almost black when they come out. I rinse them when I'm done with the spray bottle and black water rinses off. They seem to plate ok, so I haven't worried about it I am using a steel wire wheel I bought at Harbor freight. Be careful a light touch is needed to polish and not cut up the part Sometimes I use my parts washer before I bead blast. Stinky solvent based cleaner. SP degreaser in a crock pot before the "pickle" I haven't done anything yet that bead blasting didn't handle. I would be comfortable using something if I had a situation that required it... My power supply calls for a short circuit to set initial settings. After connecting the string I adjust as necessary. When I put in a new string, I adjust up or down as needed for the required amperage for that particular string That is correct. I actually adjusted a part the other day before plating or maybe after but before color. It left my finder print on the part...

Also, 3" is probably going to hurt your performance not help it

That sounds like a plan

Looks good

I understand, this can get expensive if you want to run larger tanks... This is what I plated yesterday. Got good results although that may not be apparent in this picture. I would set it up and go check on the golf match or the Olympics. Plated everything for 30 minutes @ 0.14 amps / in Blue chromate for 60 secs and yellow @ 35 seconds. I rinse it with the spray bottle between chromates and shake them off. I haven't used heat to dry them yet. Let them air dry overnight. The yellow chromate won't scratch off any more since I am going straight to yellow from blue after rinsing... The finished color is very close to the professional stuff I have had plated