Patcon

I need to source some door hinges for Cody's car. Three of the four are damaged and missing the springs. Thanks, Charles

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The straight Argon doesn't work well???

Jim, How do you plates the stoppers with the springs? Disassemble?

I agree. I think you did really well with that auction

What techniques are you using?

Where is this car????

I've done that with whole cars. It's always fun to see how long it takes for her to notice the additional car at the shop

I would leave it like that. Shouldn't be a problem. No need for extremes there

I suspect there are a lot of warranthy exceptions for damage or normal wear. Most of these warranties are for material defects

I would think! Don't tear it up twice! Call Wayne...

I agree with your not going turbo. There are lots of issues going turbo. I have 2 turbo motors here at the house and may go that way some day but you really have to go aftermarket EFI and intercooler to make it worth while. It's lots of work and programming. I think if I were going to approach this, I would go with the better of the 2 P90 engines. If you don't use the head, sell it. They bring pretty good money. Supposedly they are one of the better breathing heads though. I would go triple webers like Blue said with about 10:1 compression and a good ignition system. Maybe a 123 ignition system. Should run really well and not be overly finicky. I might bore as much as I could to get a little larger engine. Play with the engine calculator some... @240260280 Make sure the engine you buy will turn freely by hand. The boroscope is a good idea! So are biting and low blows but if I end up in a fight all options are open. ?

This was my reasoning for suggesting the finer mesh

Cody loves that!

the finer mesh looks like it is more appropriate for this application

Most people in my part of the world wouldn't know what a transport plug is. The engine just ends up in the back of a truck and what comes out, comes out!

What are you doing for the heater hoses down the passenger side of the block? I see some brass fittings in there.

One thing you can do is get it to start for a few seconds to get oil pressure. Cut it off then remove the valve cover, disable the ignition and turn the motor with the starter to verify the oil spray bar flow

$500 is cheap for an LSD and the Subaru route will set you back more than $500. These cars take a lot of money to handle the kind of power you are talking about. In reality you really can't get it all to the ground with out a lot of work, maybe not at all. When you run that kind of power (approximately 4x's what the car had stock) you are going to break just about everything at some point. Unless you have 30-40k to put into it you should reevaluate your project. You basically have to re-engineer the entire car. My 2 cents

The really scary part is that use to be metal and the frame is directly weaker for that lack of metal. Plenty of Z's out there with similar unseen weakness. There are a couple of areas in those pictures that are especially hard to repair. The compound curves in the foot well and the compound curve area under the battery tray. Will be interesting to see how you approach those. You obviously have good metal skills.

looked like a NOS quarter and fender on the wall...

You can use a remote fuel source. If you have a return line, drop it into the can too or you will have fuel all over the floor. You will have oil every where without the valve cover!

Safe bet!!! but that was obvious...

That's an excellent offer!

My wife is VERY tolerant but I believe that wouldn't work out too well for me!!!! But honey, it was dirty...