Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Locke

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
  1. View Advert WTB Early ('70) Hazard Switch Looking for an early style hazard switch like the one pictured for my series one 240z. Advertiser Locke Date 05/19/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240z  

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for an early style hazard switch like the one pictured for my series one 240z.


  3. The part number via a sticker on the gasket set is A0101-P142H (I assume that's what you mean by Stone number). On MSA where I purchased it, the code is 10-2401 Thanks for the info and recommendations everyone. As soon as the new gasket comes in and I swap it out, I'll take pics of what the head and block mating surfaces look like with all the sealer for the curious.
  4. The gasket is made by Ishino Stone. I’ve ordered a new one and I think to be safe I’ll pull the head back off, clean up the sealer, and apply the new gasket dry. Or am I freaking myself out about a minor issue?
  5. Yesterday I put my head on the block. The head gasket that I purchased from MSA didn’t have any notes about whether or not to use sealer, and after researching (briefly) online I seemed to find conflicting answers between those who apply head gaskets dry and those who use sealer. So, figuring it couldn’t hurt, I squeezed out some Permatex Non Hardening (no. 2) sealer onto both sides of my head gasket. Since then, I’ve been wondering if I screwed up by using this sealer on the head gasket in the first place or by applying too much. Here’s an image of how much I applied to the block side of the gasket. Is there a chance that this could cause issues by blocking oil passages or deteriorating the gasket itself? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Yeah, I knew that the car had sat for nearly two decades and the seller said there was likely a blown head gasket but I never expected this kind of damage. Oh well. I've got a pretty clean N47 head that I may temporarily put on if I cannot find another E31 anytime soon.
  7. Sorry for the delayed response. Here are a couple pics showing some of the damage.
  8. Thanks for the help everyone. I stopped by the shop and got to take a look at the head. It is an E31 as I suspected. The machinists showed me some cracks and even where some of the ports on the underside have been chipped due to corrosion -- and reaffirmed that they cannot salvage it. I'll take some pictures if anyone is interested. So, in the mean time, does anyone have any tips on where to find an E31 for sale? They seem to be rare.
  9. Thanks Zed Head, I'll check that out. I'm not entirely sure what they mean, but I am meeting today to discuss in more detail so I will update this thread. In the mean time, I'll attach a picture of what the cam and valves look like. Definitely significant corrosion, but I would love to salvage it if possible (trying to keep it as original as I can).
  10. Hello, I apologize if this has been asked before but I have searched the forums to no avail. I’m in the process of rebuilding the engine on my Series One 240z that was manufactured in 8/70 (not sure if it is a 70 or 71 model year). My local machine shop has told me that the head is rotted out and I will need to get a new one. I would like to replace it with the original head, however I am not sure if I need an E31 or E88, as some sites say that all 70-71 model years came with E31 while others say only the 70 model years had it (and again, I might have a 71 model). Are there any sure ways to tell which head I have? I’ve seen Zhome’s page about telling an E31/early E88 apart from a late E88 but I would like to tell apart the E31 from early E88. Did all series one cars have the E31? I can provide more info if needed. Thanks
  11. Interesting. I also just saw mentioned in another thread on this site that some dealers would even swap the carbs themselves from flat to round top due to the issues the flats were causing.
  12. Yeah, you're totally right siteunseen... I just don't want to tarnish the character of the car. Although that sounds ridiculous now that I'm typing it out, and considering I'd want to put aftermarket rims on it anyway.
  13. Thanks zKars, I'll check it out. I don't actually have a Z yet, but I was asking because I've found the carb issue to be making me hesitate to consider a 73 over an earlier model, even though there seems to be a lot more 73's available in my area.
  14. So related question: The reason I'm so curious is because I'm looking to do a full restoration and would love to rebuild the original engine, and for some reason the issue of the round tops possibly not being original is not sitting with me very well for some reason. Do you guys think that putting round tops on a car that would formerly have flats detracts from any sort of "originality value" or am I just overthinking it way too much? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.