Patcon

I think I would still take the peel the onion approach

There are some current and previous Z32 owners here too

I suspect the inner pieces are perforated with rust. So I would remove the skin for access and then rework the inner pieces. I wouldn't want to totally cut the roof bracing, just repair or replace as necessary.

I think I would remove the roof skin and then patch the underlying structure where necessary. Then reattach the roof skin. As long as the rust doesn't get too far into the corners, this would give the best repair I think. I don't think I would trust my welding on an A pillar not to mention the potential warpage

I missed that. Why does the whole roof need to be done damage, rust?

I think @nix240z has done it. Lots of spot welds

I saw that car. Its a mess! Surprising how much it brought

Yeah, it's unfortunate. I haven't really seen that kind of cracking on street engines that haven't been severely overheated. It's good you have another option. How do the chamber sizes compare?

That is perfect!

Looks like detonantion damage in the combustion chambers. I wonder if that's what cracked the head. The crack and the detonation damage sort of does the head in. I don't even know if the crack could be fixed. The detonation damage and the coolant passage erosion could be, but would take lots of work. I would say that's done. I don't know if I've ever seen a head in that bad of shape that wasn't off a turbo car

You should look at Rebello's site and Datsun spirit's site for specs. either one will make plenty of power. Rebello is closer to you on the West coast

I may have one. I would have to look

PM me an address. I will send it to you for free.

@240260280 Maybe you could try hoovering a little, if you have time?

The large pits are actually outside the seal. I was working on building up the plate on the plunger and polishing it but then had to redo some of it. So I went with what I had. It is actually much smoother than it was originally. I would still be curious to know if the reman boosters can pass the spec

I guess I would start with the differences 4cyl versus 6? Less HP and torque? Shorter drive shaft, maybe? what others?

So i went back to the shop and did a little more work. There was a small leak in the mighty vac tube and one in the black line. I also found a check valve and clean it up and put it in line with the booster. If I clamp the mighty vac in the vise and work it fast I could get it to 15" of Hg. It would slowly bleed off at a rate about 3 times the FSM spec (.9" in 15 seconds). It would be curious to know if rebuilt boosters from other sources will hold the FSM spec. I suspect the old seal I used and the slight corrosion on the MC plunger are contributing to the bleed off. For now I will consider that a success. This was not the cleanest 7" booster I have. I may take another stab at it later but for now I'm moving on. @Captain Obvious You're up next...

I would also suspect reaction disc or bad/hard pads on the brakes. If you need a reaction disc and can't find one. I have one sitting on the bench right now.

So I messed with the booster some more today. It's only been a bout 6 months. So I reassembled it. It went really well with the new lever. Almost no effort needed. I used a mixture of old seals and new seals. The old seal that goes around the disc shaft on the passenger end of the booster was reused. I was unsure the new seal would go in or work properly. I also reuse the old bellows for that end. I just put enough pressure on it to get the space out between the cases This is locked So pleased with myself until I saw this on the bench So opened it back up and did it again The real "chapper" is it still won't build vacuum, at least not by hand. I blanked out the MC end with some sheet rubber and it wouldn't. so I wrapped a zip lock around the plunger side and it still wouldn't build vacuum. Now the mighty vac will build and hold vacuum it I pinch the vacuum line. So I am kicking around ideas Maybe the seals need to bed in and higher vacuum might help? Leaks around the perimeter of the case? I sort of doubt this because the edges were good and it's pretty compressed to get it to lock close Leaks in my testing setup? Not able to build enough vacuum, quick enough by hand? Leaks at the MC plunger side? Leaks at the passenger plunger side? I wondered if I could tap it into my S-10's vacuum booster with a gauge to see if I could get it to build and hold vacuum?

Off to paint jail On another note, is that flattened section behind the valve cover at the fuse box level supposed to be that way. It is hard to tell if that is a factory condition or not

Hard pedal or excessive pressure to stop the car?

I would still say that is a pretty good deal considering the car doesn't look like many of the "Fred Flinstone" vehicles I see for 2 or 3 times that

How old are the flexible lines?

You did good!