Zed Head

One of the guys in that Hybridz thread talked about doing the same to use 300ZX (Z31) 5 lug axles, with 280Z hubs. He said it was 72mm also though. Seems like there are many ways to get there. Machine the hubs, machine the bearings, machine the axles, Redi-sleeve the bearings, Redi-sleeve the axles, drill what you got. Buy aftermarket.

I don't think that factory used soldering to splice or tap wires. They used crimped connectors. If you start a new thread with "1970 ammeter shunt charging problem" you might catch the eye of one of the 240Z electrical gurus. Steve J and CO know a lot along with several others. Charging problems are usually boring, but yours has more meat to it. I know the internally regulated alternators basics, but not much ammeter stuff.

When you "shroud" do you mean the little shield on the top? That's not really a shroud. Without a shroud you probably really want to be within a certain distance from the radiator to get good pull through the fins. If you do have a shroud then I think that the blades typically sit in a certain spot to work most effectively. Doesn't answer your question, but I'd guess that many of us could give you a number, but not many know if theirs is the furthest back. You'd have to know everything that's out there to make that call.

The pictures aren't the greatest but many of the vacuum operated devices are emissions related. Have you checked the FSM chapters? Download it from our download area. Some of the FSM's have a section devoted just to vacuum hoses. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/4-manuals/

I think that there's a fusible link on the charge wire. It may have blown when the smoking started and saved you from more damage. Seems like you have something wired wrong and you should probably figure it out before replacing the link, if you can find it. It should be exposed, not buried in harness wrap, so that it can be replaced. I'd start from scratch and examine all of your wiring.

Open to where? You mean no connection to the battery? Or the new alternator? Your car has/had an ammeter. That might be where all of your problems are centered, including the smoke. I commented in general terms about why things weren't working, but someone with an ammeter probably knows the details of your situation. We could could easily get the alternator to work, using two jumper wires, but not the ammeter. Plus, the short that caused the smoke might still be there. You didn't mention the smoke before. Was it before or after the alternator swap? Might want to write up a short history of why you did the swap, when the smoke appeared, and any odd things that might have caused problems.

I've wondered the same. I have a set of 280 ZX 2+2 CV companion flanges. I found a somewhat confusing thread implying that there's a problem with wheel bearing sizes. I wanted the six hole CV flange in my 280Z but I'd have to go backward to 240Z axles to use them. Side note - it's kind of odd that Nissan went back to a smaller axle for a heavier (2+2), more powerful (turbo) car. Here's the thread about bearing sizes. It also has another path to 5 lugs though, that might be interesting - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103344-280zxt-stub-axle-cv-swap/ On the topic of reinforcing the holes - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116276-5-lug-hub-stub-axles-conversion-for-240z-260z-280z/ Seems like some thought about where the loads are distributed and how clamping forces work would be worthwhile. People seem to be thinking that radially directed loads are the extreme ones. Not so sure.

Maybe we're in the similar words zone here. In the states I can take a napkin and write "sold to john doe for $400 one 240Z", put a date and signature on it and that is a Bill of Sale. Or maybe it's the same there. I wrote up a bunch of words but it really boils down tot his question - How would a person prove ownership of a car? There must be government documentation somewhere. Which of the Two VINs in question is on that official documentation?

I'm seeing things on the interweb that suggest that even though the documents may not be called "Titles", there are still official documents with the VIN on them in Canada, province-generated, just like the state-generated Certificates of Title that we have here. The owner may not hold them, but the government has registration records. So I guess the question would be "what is the VIN on the official documents?" Is that about right? Or which VIN do you own?

Darn it, the site is dumping on me. Edit and Reply function getting all tied up. I'll just post a picture and a link. Fuel 1973.... file Write the text and now a the file I attached earlier that had disappeared is back. The site is saving some weird stuff.

All of the links on SU's that I find say that 5 is too high and might cause problems. I don't even know exactly how the SU's maintain pressure but spec. is 3.4 psi according to the FSM. I assume that the mechanical pumps regulate internally, and there is an orifice in the carbs that provides back pressure. You'll need a pump that regulates pressure internally if you want to continue to use that method. If you don't, again assuming, you'll have to remove the blockages to allow flow and place a regulator in line, or dead- head the carburetors and replumb them, with a regulator at the T with the return line. From what I gather, the 240Z's all have a return line so there are lots of options. You still haven't described clearly how exactly your system is plumbed though. A regulator won't do you any good unless it's plumbed correctly. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp202.htm Converting to mechanical might be good for you, (like a pond) - Some good information in this thread from a year and a half ago -

There's a spot on his Facebook page to give some feedback - https://www.facebook.com/California-Datsun-Inc-1410415502525098/reviews/

Exactly. What's the VIN number on the title? No surprise if there's no title. Just part of the story.

What are you using for the work, and how? A drill press maybe, with a template? Or something more sophisticated? I've heard that some of the older flanges can get out of true over time and use. You might check run-out and fix it while they're off and the lugs are out. Could save you future balance problems. It can be especially problematic for disc brake swaps since they're more sensitive to run-out, if you're planning that in the long run.

Only curious. cbuczesk asked about the title VIN number but you didn't answer. Down here in the States most DMV's (Dept.'s of Motor Vehicles) do a VIN check by looking at the dash VIN. So if the dash VIN doesn't match the title whoever buys it will need to jump through a bunch of hoops. If you don't have the title, still many hoops required.

Maaaann, I thought I was learning something new but now I don't know. You know I love a puzzle so I went to the Owner's Manual, and found the section. In both 77 and 78. Copied 78 here. They even describe it like I do, by my "bonus" function. They mention the seat belt buzzer and timer. Not trying to one-up, just curious. Maybe your wires are crossed (in the car, not your head). Sorry Swede, This may actually be useful in the end when you get in to the swap. If you get done and your relay is still whining, we'll know more about what to do for it. Maybe it's actually your seat belt buzzer whining.

I ran a loop in mine. Let it project then loop it around to the destination. EFI system but same problem. If you put enough loops in it your gas mileage will probably increase.

Reread your post here and I think the incongruence is on the intent or the description of the intent by Nissan. Whether they intended it to show that the engine is running with the key on, or not, it does do that. As long as the brake lever is down. If the engine is running and it dies on you, the red brake light catches your eye pretty quickly. Alright, back to The Swede's issue. The alternator swap.

The light goes on when the key is turned On, right? That's the "check" function. Then when the engine starts, it goes off. Pretty sure that's the same for all of them. Otherwise the light stays on all the time, or it never "checks".. So, key on/engine running = no light, key on/engine stopped = light. Multi-function. Maybe you're saying that 77 gets its brake check warning lamp relay power from somewhere else? I was just commenting on the function of the light. I powered my light from the fuel pump power so I have the original function plus my bonus function.

Just thought of the other function of that light, the one that I've mainly used it for - ignition switch is on. Or - what happened? Oh, the light's on, the engine must have quit.

This is why we don't past after midnight. Captain's right, it's just a bulb check relay. I'm usually the one that rights out all the words for that thing too... For a small function, it has a lot of design effort in it, and can cause fairly significant problems. It's a weird little sub-system.

Goodbye old problems. We'll miss you...

No harm, besides maybe driving around with your parking brake on. I've generally thought that its other function, of showing a brake pressure imbalance, was kind of worthless. It shows up in the brake pedal anyway.

Do your colors match 76? As you note, the goal is to get the L and S wires what they need and the rest get disconnected. So a meter will tell you which is L, power with the key On, and which is S, power directly to the battery (actually to all of the loads on the system). But be careful if you have the 76 wiring, the brake check warning lamp relay is also powered from the yellow wire and will drain your battery. The external regulator must have competed that connection when the regulator powered up. I had to rewire the relay. You'll know if you have that problem because you'll hear the relay click when you reconnect the negative cable after making the connections.