Zed Head

If you consider what PCV offers, you might want to keep it. It purges the crankcase of fuel, and exhaust, and moisture. Keeps things clean. The only real downside is if you're racing and you need every fraction of a horsepower. It does allow some small amount of oxygen-deficient air (blow-by) in to the intake manifold. It won't fix a blowby problem but will cover for it. You have an L28, but it must have carbs. Right? Here's a link to MSA where they talk about the early PCV. Later Nissan FSM's put the description in the Emissions chapter. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/18-9050

One picture? 1970? No VIN? C'mmmoonnnnn..!!

I wish that I still had all of the cars that I've had. I'd be sitting on some good money. The Dart Sport had the twin snorkel hood scoops, the later rounded fender body style (not the early squared off version), and a 340 with an 800 cfm ThermoQuad carburetor. I bought it for $600, rebuilt the carburetor (it had a sunk float), and made noise around the neighborhood for a few months. Can't remember why I sold it. Maybe I had a moment of sensibility.

Yes you can. They overheat and boil fluid out with unregulated voltage (that's a good sign of a bad regulator). Then, if you have a 1974 Dodge Dart Sport, the electronic ignition module will die like somebody shot it, after you replace the external regulator, as you're heading in to town. If you're lucky a local mechanic will be standing in his yard and come over to tell you what happened after you describe the recent problems.

If I had a nice-looking engine I'd only put the engine puller on when I was pulling an engine. I don't even know why Nissan leaves those on unless it just makes factory assembly easier, they don't want to add a step, and they're inexpensive. They're certainly not very attractive. I'd install the engine then remove it and put it in a drawer.

Don't mean to get all pedantic and I hope I'm not irritating - but the chain's only purpose is to spin the camshaft and keep it oriented properly to the crankshaft. That's why I focus on the crankshaft and the camshaft and ignore the bright links. You have the cam and crank properly oriented, now you just have to put the chain and sprocket on so that that orientation is maintained with the straight side of the chain tight, like it will be when the engine is turning. If the damper and tab marks are off when you're done then change the damper and/or tab. Not the chain or sprocket or anything else. The damper marks and tab are just external indicators. If the parts aren't indicating what you just confirmed as correct, the problem is with them. Only reiterating to be sure. One place you can get screwed up on when confirming cam orientation is to not have the straight side of the chain tight. It has to be tight. Still wondering about the "straight up and down" part though. You're in the eyeballing it regime, there are no marks to go by. "With the crank key slot is straight up and down." Here's a thought - if you have an old damper try it and see if the marks are still off. Two identically bad parts would be unusual.

What will you see under the timing chain cover that will tell you more than what you can see now? There's nothing under there. All of the marks you need are visible under the valve cover and on the damper and timing tab. There's no need to pull the cover. If you want to be exact, better to get a dial indicator down the #1 bore and verify TDC that way. That's the basis of your questions. Everything revolves around piston position.

There was a bot? Does that come from botfly? Lays eggs that hatch inside? Ewww... Definitely more pleasant. Even the ads that slip through. Coffee...uuummm

You never know. If the damper mark doesn't match the timing tab and you're sure that the mechanical are correct and solid, just change the tab or the damper. The notch and the tab are just indicators of what's inside. You're blending together many things, the shiny links (which don't matter at all really, they're just a convenience), the ignition timing marks (the tab and damper notch or notches), and the cam timing. They're really separate things, that can be addressed independently. I would ficus on the crankshaft and the cam timing as an assembly, and the crankshaft and the ignition timing. Use the notch and groove for cam timing, not the shiny links, and the marks on the damper for ignition timing. All with the crank key groove straight up. I would forget about the shiny links entirely. They're just a distraction.

Do you mean straight up relative to gravity or straight up relative the front of the engine. Did you adjust for the tilt of the engine in the chassis?

Seems like a good guess.

I would measure voltage at the alternator plug with the key On. Both should show battery voltage. You don't even need to know which is which. Unless one has no voltage. Could be that your alternator has had the L circuit shorted at the B post, to eliminate the need for one wire. That would explain why it still charges. Could also be that your three-wire is actually a one-wire. I think that ammeter only shows charge and discharge from the electrical system. No indication of voltage at all. Probably why everyone switched to voltmeters and a charge light.

Also. 12.2 volts is a partially charged battery. ~50% by the chart shown here - http://modernsurvivalblog.com/alternative-energy/battery-state-of-charge-chart/ Could be a part of the problem. p.s. I'm not a survivalist. That site just had the best-looking and informative chart.

Remembered, halfway, also, that the power that was getting interrupted with the early switches was probably coil power. Little to do with this problem. So the early/late switch comment is probably not relevant. Most of my posts in this thread have been rambly and off-topic. If the yellow wire has constant power as the instructions direct, the radio should work as expected. You might try disconnecting the solenoid wire from the starter just to see if it's the big starter current draw causing problems or a switching problem. You won't get the drop to 10.5 volts without the starter motor kicking in. Here's the Retro site for those interested. https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/all/1971+datsun https://www.retromanufacturing.com/pages/wiring-your-radio

I just did a Google on "power interrupt radio capacitor" and the first hit was some guy annoyed that his CD player was losing its spot when he started his car. So he devised a fix. Unfortunately, there's a diode involved. He didn't say what type or year of car. Hail, hail, the brain full of trivia. http://blog.iharder.net/2010/07/29/radio-how-to-keep-your-radio-on-when-you-start-your-car/

Google - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/73862-tilton-light-flywheel-for-l-series/ Probably need to clean yours to see any engraving or markings. https://www.google.com/search?q=tilton+flywheel+nissan&biw=1280&bih=895&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjg86PF6uTLAhVB8mMKHR_VBpoQ_AUICCgD John Coffey may have seen one of these before - http://zhome.com/Racing/Auto/Coffey.htm

A thought - maybe a branch from the Start power wire to the radio would maintain its memory. It can't draw much. If it does, you could use a relay. You could have have Acc, On and Start all wired to the radio power. Use diodes to prevent backfeed. Still think a good unit has better power supply control. Which I think is what you're originally suggesting anyway.

Pretty sure I've read comments in the past about the 240Z's having a momentary loss of power at the ignition switch, due to its design. The contacts don't overlap. Might have been on a Megasquirt forum, or about Megasquirt. I thought it was SteveJ that said so. Also thought it was between On and Start, not Acc and On. It changed in later ignition switches, apparently, I think that the 280Z's don't have the problem. I wonder if some sort of capacitor or uninterruptable power supply could be used to fix it. I've noticed that my combo CD player/radio in the garage takes a couple of seconds to die when I cut its power. It must have something inside that holds some power for a while. Spell check suggests "unintelligible" for "uninterubtible".

Just to followup - almost everybody has looked for an easy, inexpensive way to get limited slip in their Z, R200's included. Nothing has been found yet. Numerous Franken-axles, adapters, and flange swap shave been devised and tried. Even what looks like the most straight-forward and easy swap of an R200 from a 300ZX turbo has axle length problems. Nobody has come up with the sub-$1000 LSD setup yet. There is a guy on Hybridz though, who's helping a company develop an R200 LSD that should swap directly in to an R200 case and use R200 axles. Unclear what they'll cost in the long run, but the first batch is going for $700. Worth keeping track of. Maybe you can talk him in to doing the same for the R180. At least the invisible hand is doing its thing. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121007-mfactory-r200-lsd/

Depends on how it's mounted.

You can't even swap ring and pinion within the Nissan family, from old to newer - " In addition to the bolt in axle issues, there is another difference between early and late R180s. Early R180's measure 110mm inside the ring gear. 77 and later model year R180s measure 115mm inside the ring gear. This minor change means that the ring and pinions won't swap between the early and later models. If you have an early diff you must use an early carrier, and if you have the later diff you must use a later carrier. It is possible to use a early carrier on a later ring gear with a spacer, but that is outside the scope of this thread. " http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Here's John C's first prototype shaft thread. It has comments specific to the different spline count - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles/ Here's one of the early Subaru diff swaps - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/73182-subaru-sti-r180-differential-and-axle-conversion-revised/

The sleeves are out there - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/176-5899364-2390852?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Sleeves+Capsule+for+Valve+Stem+

You should specify year of car. 75-77 280Z's had a contact in the AFM to run the fuel pump relay. Also, people often open the AFM but don't adjust it, for cleaning and examination. If the glue blobs are intact it's probably OK. And, there are many symptoms that look like AFM but aren't. MSA summarized them nicely. Read the text at the bottom - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040

Some of the "chatter" marks look more like chatter from a regrinding operation. Check lash after a few hundred miles, and then a few thousand. If a lobe is going bad, it will show up. One thing that might be informative on the cam lobes though, pertaining to the valves, is if there is wear on the base circle. If lash is set right the base circle will get a coating of brown, since the anti-rattle springs are lifting the rocker pad from the cam and there's a gap there (the lash). If there's wear on the lobe base, there's a chance the valve seats have worn, or a valve stayed open and got "burned" or warped. Really though, if it sounds good and runs well, you might as well just get another head ready to swap on.