Zed Head

They have them at OReilly auto.

Alright site, you made me feel bad. Removing all of my comments, useful and otherwise. He/she can start anew.

I was fixing it while you posted. I fixed the bad one.

Do over.

They really weren't that bad...

Never mind.

Where?

How did you even see that? Most of us would have just put the thing together, there would have been some odd noise during the first few clutch disengagements, and the rivet tops would have worn off. Problem only discovered, maybe, years later. Also, is it possible that you were looking at it with the disc backward? The normal contact spot, if the disc is backward, is the hub on the fly wheel bolts, but if you were just looking at disc and plate, you wouldn't notice that.

Lesson - don't make decisions during happy hour. Ponder, yes - decide, no.

Pretty sure that's a 1975 280Z brochure. The caps on the rear strut towers, one fusible link, regulator exposed, and the writing about "all the traditions of the 240Z and 260Z updated". Still makes me want to buy one. And where's my "surrounded by tinted glass"? Pretty sure my 76 doesn't have any at all.

When the wheels are hanging the u-joints of the driveshafts/halfshafts have too much angle and will bind. Clang, clang, clang as they pop around. If you want to test it on jacks spread the load with some wood under the control arms, to load the suspension and get the drive shafts in a normal position. If you want to just check u-joints, it's best to use a screwdriver to pry the joint around with a bright light so you can see any movement. Also look for rust dust around the bearing cup seals.

The shiny links are only there for the first installation, to make it easier. After the chain is installed, they'll only be right every X number of rotations. It's the notch and groove, and ignition timing mark, that you use after the engine's been rotated.

Does anyone know why Bob Is The Oil Guy? Isn't it just another forum with people like us on it? I see articles with names attached, but no credentials. And who, exactly, is Bob?

Cool document. If you don't add it to the Downloads area I probably will in a few days.

Worst case, use the front case to make a more modern transmission. Sell the servo synchro parts to the racers out there that are also in your boat. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

I was thinking more along the lines that an engine that sits will get a small amount of surface rust on the cylinder walls, maybe a valve seat or two (two or three of the valves will be open while sitting), and the oil will drain from the rings and cylinder walls. Even in brand new engines. If you just went straight to a leak-down test on an en engine that's been sitting, without spinning the engine or running it, results would be expectedly iffy.

Weird. Plain old 77-78 ratios but with steel servo type synchros. What do you do with that?

Here are some sources. You're going to need a bigger phone. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf

I'm going to sound a little bit parrot-like, but we could use a better description. You said that you tested the harness and popped the circuit break on two of the contacts. Hard to understand. Do you mean that you blew two fuses? We don't call them circuit breakers even though that's what fuses do. And proper testing procedure doesn't blow fuses. So that's an issue.

I saw Namerow's comment on flow direction but didn't ponder it deeply. If direction was determined form the test procedure , maybe that's where the question develops. Direction for testing probably wouldn't matter. The flow diagram shows flow from the housing, through the manifolds, and to the water pump outlet.

Interesting also to note that Nissan put so much effort, including a page and a half in the FSM, in to a tiny device that hardly anybody knows about. It must be solving some problem. Automakers are notoriously cheap.

I used it until I picked up a very worn ZX 5 speed, then I went to a mysterious controversial blend (SWEPCO 201 w/ATF). MT-90 works great in good condition transmissions. It even fixed a 3rd gear high RPM grinding problem in a 1978 5 speed, over plain old Valvoline 75W-90 gear oil. I used my leftover MT-90 in my Pathfinder 5 speed. Works great there too.

Thanks for adding. Hope I'm not blowing up biodi's thread. It looks like the servo synchro problem has been confusing people for many years. Found another old thread that suggests improper fluid can cause problems. SWEPCO raises its head again, JMortensen's favorite from his Porsche days. Maybe the Redline MT90 isn't the best for this transmission? Who knows. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=508611 p.s. I think that baulk essentially means "stop", which is what the rings do in a relative way. So both servo and borg warner style should both be baulk rings. People seem to be using "baulk" to differentiate. Anther confusion.

Odd - http://www.partsbase.org/parts/nissan-c010022500/

What's the pressure plate number? Just for reference. And, maybe, at least, you can get the right pressure plate for the odd disc and have a set. We all like pictures too, if you have them.