Zed Head

Rossi seemed to come out okay once it was clear that there was a problem. The question is whether the new products, produced now, are correct and properly checked before sale, or if the same problems are being shipped and only fixed if there's a complaint. Proactive versus reactive. There's a member out there right now with an issue. Let's see how it turns out.

Do you have a list of what was replaced, and what they were replaced with? Factory bushings or aftermarket? There are a lot of bushings on the car. And, why did you have the bushings replaced? Is the car worse, the same, or better but still not good, now?

Actually, this thread is for your benefit, Al. Glad you decided to respond. Some of the feedback that's out there suggested that you were in denial about the poor assembly of some of your parts, so this is a spot to collect that information and share it, with you, and with classizcars.com members. Now you can go to your engine builder with solid facts and get things right. Good luck. Seriously. It would be great to have a good solid vendor for this market. You're one of the few, so you can milk it until it dies or build it up strong.

The links in the first post don't work anymore and I can't edit them. Seems to be the https portion. http://www.californiadatsun.com/ http://www.californiadatsun.com/testimonials/ http://www.californiadatsun.com/contact-owner-al-allen-of-california-datsun-inc.html

Adding a couple of thread links about this company for any future searchers. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51681-oil-pressure-uneven/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50485-rocker-geometry-woes/page-1

This won't make you feel better or help your problem directly, but it might help you if you find problems. Better check your wipe patterns n the rocker arms. And Datsun Parts LLC is now California Datsun. Give him a call. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50485-rocker-geometry-woes/page-1 http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51455-datsun-parts-llc-gone-to-the-dark-side/

Your tachometer behavior is common. Typically, the sticking happens when it's hot in the car, like on a hot day. Disturbing that you had a "few blown fuses". That means shorts. Fuses should never blow. Many people have factory original fuses. Sounds like your ignition relay (not module) might be bad. Mine was bypassed also. Does your radio work with the key in the Acc. position? It should.

Yes, the plug was used in 1978. I think it was also used in 1974, on the 260Z (maybe not the same wiring, but still a plug). But in between, the screw terminal block was used. With a wiring diagram you can make any of them work. I used 1978 module in my 76 for a little while. Note though, that some modules have two ignition circuits, one to advance the timing while cold. It's not super important, the engine will run fine once warmed up with any of them, but idle speed will drop for a short while between cold and warmed up if you don't have the advance feature (see Chickenman's recent posting on dual pickup phasing). Barely noticeable if you lose it, but nice if you can keep it.

Same thing.

It's right next to your left leg when you're sitting in the driver's seat. Behind the black plastic kick panel. Three screws.

Coulda got Nissan for 5 cents more!

Good luck with the new thing. Is that white 350Z bagged? http://www.zociety.org/zociety

Just found another reference to hot-start from the 1981 280ZX Turbo review. Surprised I didn't catch these before, I've borwsed through most f the articles. This one is with the cooling fan. From May 1981. Note that they didn't report actually hearing the fan run. "we found that cold starting and driveability were very good but the the engine wasn't overly eager to start following a hot soak, and ran tentatively for several seconds before clearing out. An auxiliary cooling fan actuated by coolant temperature and positioned to blow cool air over the fuel rails is supposed to minimize the problem, but it obviously isn't a cure-all for every hot-soak condition."

Thanks FW. I think I know where it is now. Found another drawing in the FSM. I'm pretty sure I've checked the check valve function from the engine bay in the past. It seemed to have a one way action and I thought I knew what I was looking for, although, looking at the drawings, it's not clear to me what it's actually designed to be checking. But I get no whoosh at all. Might have a slow leak down to the charcoal canister. Redwing, it could be that somebody removed your charcoal canister and blocked the vent line. The canister is about the size of a gallon coffee can and sits right next to the radiator, passenger side. It's black and has three small hoses connected to the cap on top.

I think that it should work fine. You could even mix and match AFM and ECU, I believe. I have an assortment of ECU's and AFM's, from 75 to 78, that I have run together in various configurations. No significant differences, besides small effects of age and wear and tear. Wasn't it you that had the altitude correction on your car? You might lose that if the 75 ECU doesn't have it. But you could still run the AFM. And the ECU would work it just wouldn't do anything with the altitude switch. If the price is reasonable and the parts are in good shape you might buy it just for spares. I was just looking at my new MSA AFM that I bought five years ago but haven't really used much and it's already showing a good amount of wear. I don't think the reman parts are anywhere near as durable as original Nissan parts. A 100,000 mile Nissan AFM might have another 150,000 miles in it, while a reman AFM might last 50,000 only. Mass manufacturing has its benefits.

I think that the later 4 speed, and 5 speed bolts might be the same. carpartsmanual shows the same part numbers, just different quantities. Weird. I just used my 4 speed bolts on all of my 5 speeds. Seemed to have plenty of thread engagement. Looks like the very early 4 speed had one bolt different from the later 4 and 5 speeds. Also, I think that the bolts are still available from the dealer. $1.12 each at courtesy. A good parts guy could find them on the microfiche. Of course, if you're not looking for the parts, just the specs. this may not help. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionCase/5Speed/tabid/1702/Default.aspx http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionCase/4Speed/FromSep-71/tabid/1701/Default.aspx

Pretty sure that EuroDat knows. I think that he made a list. You might find it with a search. Or a PM.

This guy seems to be the most popular for finished complete rails for the L6 engine. He offers a variety of fittings from 11mm to barbed, along with a gauge fitting if wanted. Check the last few posts to see how to order. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99098-pallnet-fuel-rails/ And a few of us have made our own. You can get stock from Ross Machine Racing on eBay. If you're not worried about finish sometimes he sells dinged stock for a discount. http://stores.ebay.com/Ross-Machine-Racing

It definitely helped. I had it on a 20 minute timer and if I turned it on I had no problems when I came back, if I forgot and came back in the critical window, it always had the problem. But I had a hose with holes directly over the injectors to direct the air right at them. Then I added an aluminum fuel rail with different injectors and solved the problem completely (I thought) so I removed the fan. Adding others' experiences in to the mix suggests that the larger fuel volume and the better heat transfer of the aluminum rail keeps the injectors cool. Fastwoman suggested heat-pipe technology as a reference, like distillation but for the purpose of removing heat. Things were fine unit just this winter when the problem came back, probably due to fuel changes. So I added insulators to the injectors and it dropped it to about a 2% level. Occasionally, after a long drive and a stop I'll get a second of roughness. But it goes right away. Everything points to hot injectors.

I think that the CHTS hole is dry. On the ZX distributor - some, the later ones, came with an E12-92 or -93 module that has an electrical timing advance connection. It can cause problems sometimes, apparently. The E12-80 only has one external connector, with two pins, and the reluctor connections on the inside. You can swap the modules, or there's a method to lock the advance connection into one state by applying power to it.

I looked for it in the FSM but didn't see it referenced anywhere. From what I've read, most people that have the fan have never actually heard it run. The switch is set for 210 degrees or somewhere close to that, apparently, and it's mounted in the thermostat housing. I mounted a ZX fan on my car, with a manual switch, and they're pretty noisy so you'd know if it was on.

Where is the check valve located? I see that it's in the vent line, but haven't seen its actual place on the car. I've never had my side panels off to look at the reservoir and lines above the tank. Afraid I'll crack the panels getting them out.

I have a book that compiles all of the Road & Track tests of the Z cars over the years. Found an interesting comment in a test of the 1979 280ZX from April 1979, compared to three other sports cars. "And we found that after a brisk workout, it would sputter and spit back through the injection on restart." Think they meant intake, not injection. So it looks like the hot-start problem has always been there, even with ethanol-free fuel. Just a consequence of placing the injectors next to the hot exhaust manifold. The R&T guys probably got things pretty hot so there would be a lot of excess heat in the block and manifolds.

Are these big bumpers or small bumpers?

"Ripped off" is in the mind of the buyer. I'll guess $3000. Never mind, Nada and Kelly apparently don't even do old cars any more. Try Hemming - http://www.hemmings.com/priceguide/ Notice the difference between 70 and 71. 70 is a collector car, 71 is just a 240Z. No offense to any post-70 owners.