Zed Head

I think that you could easily measure all of those with a scanner, some data-acquisition software and a computer. Very common in the industrial/scientific world. But, maybe expensive. If you did the math you'd probably find that converting to Megasquirt, for data-logging alone, would be the way to go. The tuneable engine management would be a bonus.

I appreciate anybody's efforts to keep these old FSM's available. They are the most important thing, I think, that keeps these old Z's alive. But is your copy different from the Xenons30, or nicoclub copies? 1972 is available there. 1971, though, seems to be unavailable anywhere. On the other hand, maybe we should get copies of all of the FSM's in case those other sites go under, like web sites tend to do. I will ship my paper 1976 original FSM to anybody who will copy it and make it available to classiczcars.com. I don't have that ability. Does anyone know if Kinko's will do that work and how much? Whatever it takes.

The best thing to do is to read the label. If it says compatible, it's probably compatible. Color is a marketing tool, not a professional standard or spec.

Looks like the ZX uses the two longitudinal bolts, like the later 280Z's. From the 82 MT Engine Removal chapter. Weird that they have a special chapter for it, seems like it would be in Engine Mechanical. The transmission mount is considered the third engine mount. Not clear if you meant the crossmember or the rubber. If rubber, the part numbers should be the same at Rockauto or wherever. I have a ZX mount in the garage somewhere. Edit - added some Rockauto stuff.

Probably not a benefit. And the vacuum advance curve of the 83 may be different. Looks like it has a dual stage curve, I can't remember exactly how it works. I think it uses the high vac advance when EGR is actuated so you'd probably be on the 10 degree curve if you just use one vacuum port, as opposed to the 15 or 18 degrees of your 78. On the other hand, that 77 distributor will work just fine with your 78 ignition module. If the breaker plate bearings and other parts are good, it would be worth getting, for a spare. Also, note that the 83 probably uses an E12-92 or -93 module (ID should be molded in to the module case), which takes extra wiring to work right, as opposed to the E12-80 module. Of course, if any of the engines use a rebuilt distributor, all of this may be different. The rebuilders don't match specs. exactly. Stuff to think about...

Here's a picture of the pickup coils. The wires are typically red and green.

Sounds more like a bad electrical connection, or a bad module. The "jumping alive" again part is odd, but does remind me of a problem I've seen described with the wires to the pickup coil in the distributor. The breaker plate moves with intake vacuum and the wires to the pickup coil flex back and forth each time. They can wear through the insulation and short. You might check those carefully. When the engine dies the breaker plate would go back to its starting point and all would be good. You can measure resistance at the terminal block while you twist the breaker plate, or just take the distributor rotor off and look closely. If the distributor is old be careful because the breaker plate bearings get rusty and break their plastic cage. You don't want to do that. If you have a Federal 76, you'll have two pickup coils, one for cold engine and one for warm engine. If you find a bad wire, you can rig things up to use the other. And a cheap but effective ignition module swap is the GM HEI module. Many of us use it. ~$25 and some time.

The selector valve directs vacuum to all three actuators in Defrost mode. Water ****, fresh air door and mode door. A leak in any might weaken another. Actuating by hand would at least answer the question of if it's catching on something. You can only generate so much force with a vacuum actuator. Air pressure limited. Maybe a little extra force to break it free would let it work afterward. You don't need to disconnect it either, just give it some help. If you can reach it.

What kind of meter are you using? All of your numbers seem high. Spec. on the coil is 1.4 ohms. If you don't have an adjustment on the meter, touch the leads together and record that number. Then subtract it from whatever reading you get on the parts. More details on what happened before the engine starts dying might offer a clue. Is the engine still cold or is it hot (ignition module's fail from heat), has it been idling for a while or have you been driving it, is the idle speed low (AFM contact switch), once it starts happening is it repeatable or does it go back to just fine for hours or weeks? Stuff like that. Context.

Here's another thought. Related to the loose damper bolt. That should never happen, and really seems like the most significant thing. I've seen where other people have reported their distributor drive spindle has slipped down in the drive gear and the tang no longer sticks out far enough to grab the distributor groove properly. Maybe the vibrations related to that loose bolt, either causing the loose bolt or caused by the loose damper, made other parts move. I would follow that path and see if maybe a woodruff key sheared or moved (there's three of them, right?), or if the quill dropped in the drive gear. Also, why did the bolt get loose? Could be that something else is coming loose inside the engine. I would have broke a sweat when I saw that loose bolt. Just because it seems like a big deal. But that's me, and I've never rebuilt an engine.

Is the damper itself still in good shape? Still damping? Maybe the timing mark you're looking at has moved. On the low pressure - different gauges can read different pressures, due to internal volume variation. Low pressure might not be relevant, but does fit changed cam timing. I'm a big fan of the notch and groove for checking that the cam and all of the other parts are in their proper relation to each other. Does the Web cam not use the notch and groove? Cam lobes up is not the most precise. That's what struck me when I read your first post. Also, on spark - current through the coil will determine strength of spark. Changing ignition system parts won't change power supply. Maybe you've got a fried power supply wire to the coil and module.

Took a picture of an R200 diff nose on a mount. Everything is inboard of the mount. That rusty crack I circled in that other picture is just something hanging off the body. A broken u-joint might cause some clanking and locking. Or a broken differential.

Snipped a copy and circled what I think you're talking about. Haven't looked at a diff lately so not sure what that is.

A follow-up to zcarnut - AC mode is all spring-actuation and cables. Defrost requires the vacuum pots to overcome the springs. Maybe you've got a stuck magnet valve or split hose, and the springs win the battle. Does the idle RPM increase when you go to Defrost mode, or switching between other modes? That was one of the signs of a split hose for me, the vacuum leak increased my idle RPM.

I've had my car on stands, with the wheels hanging, and the half-shaft angles are are too steep for the u-joints with the wheels hanging. I think that was with KYB shocks. They'll make that rat-tat-tat noise even with everything in good shape. The length of the shock at full extension will affect that. So, you might have missed the real problem. I think that you need to get the stands under the control arms so that the wheels and half-shafts are in the normal driving orientation. But if the diff was bouncing around because of u-joint binding that's still not right. The diff should be pretty well held in place by the front mount and the mustache bar.

Well then, Patcon's suggestion is the way. You'll have to twist your way back there or lay on your back to get to the screws. Use a short screwdriver. Take a flashlight and a few other pokey-proddy tools to move the lever. The panel might have some sealant holding it in place, try not to bend it, it's just vinyl-covered cardboard. When you're done, get some stick-on weatherstrip and seal the complete perimeter of the panel. It will keep exhaust fumes out. You can slide the lock holding clip off with the panel off and remove the lock, then actuate the lever from the outside hole, I believe. If you don't have another lock to put in its place.

The Ford swap is not common. Your best bet would be to have someone build one for you. http://www.technoversions.com/MotorMatchHome.html Here's the web site where he documents the swap - http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm

Kind of an odd set of parameters but you'd probably have better luck on Hybridz. This is Classic. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/72-cars-wanted/

So you're saying that there's a bolt head under there?

Could be the old wild-goose chase. Maybe the OP didn't look for the bolt and took bad pictures. I gave the benefit of the doubt. From this post and that Hybridz one though it seems that the CV flange clip-in axles have a different spline count. There doesn't seem to be a clip in u-joint halfshaft option for a Nissan R180. That;s the part I'm wondering about.

I think that you are right and that is just the ground connection for the condenser. The condenser is probably still stuck in your harness somewhere, by the coil wiring. I'd try to find it and use it. I'm not sure that all of the condensers are just for radio noise. Other circuits might be affected by the noise. I know that my tachometer will not work without a condenser, but my ignition system is modified. Here's another wiring diagram that shows a condenser grounding next to the distributor. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/78_280Z_wiring.pdf

The R180s diagram above shows the 6 (3x2) bolt flange. I assume that that's supposed to pop out and the four bolt flange and shaft pops in. Someone on Hybridz had one of those though and the spline count was wrong, apparently. Many ways to get confused with the R180's. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123135-stub-axle-confusion/

The Nissan FMS's all the way to 1983 show bolt-in axles for the R180, not clip-in. And the Hybriz link shows how to convert a newer Subaru clip-in diff to Nissan bolt-in. But doesn't show a Nissan R180 clip-in diff. Maybe Subari used a clip-in diff on their older models, and you have one of those, and somebody converted a halfshaft. You can convert a half shaft by putting a different flange on the u-joint. If the u-joint size is the same size. So that is a weird one.

Anybody remember the 1974 Pontiac GTO? The marketing guys will milk a moniker for all its worth. 400 HP to 200 HP. A Nova with a shaker scoop.

How many people submerse the rotor of their water pump in water prior to installation, to lubricate the bearing? And do not spin the pump before installing? Who can resist that?