Zed Head

Makes sense. Not many of us measure things that work, although we should. I'm not aware of what you would measure on the "match box" though. The modules are hard to diagnose without a tester. There is a test procedure in the FSM's for the other parts of the system.

"stroker" is irrelevant. Unless you only want to talk to guys who have one. The ZX distributors have other weaknesses though. Why do you think it's the module? The stator magnets seem to break a lot, and they actually sell a replacement bushing for the dizzy shaft.

Thanks for getting back. So basically, you didn't check valve lash, you just replaced those parts based on the ticking noise, and the appearance? Pictures would be neat if you still have the parts. And where did you get genuine Nissan rocker arms? My impression that they're NLA.

Did you adjust the valve lash before and found that they were still noisy? You didn't really show a reason to replace parts. Just good to know.

The problems seemed to be with fit. They wouldn't. MSA tries to address it in the text on the ad page but it's going to take a quite a while. It's this one, I believe - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2139 When madkaw says "performance" I don't think he means this one. That's the brand name.

MSA has several, even the stock type. Which they call a "pulley" for some reason. Still comes up when you put "damper" in the search box. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2139 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2138 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2144 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2140

I did something similar with a thick nylon washer and a shoulder bolt from the local ACE Hardware. It does have a slightly tighter spot in the middle of the range. If I recall, my roller broke but the backing cone-shaped guide piece was okay. So I didn't need the grommet, just the roller. One concern might the type of grease used on the plastic roller. Some plastics won't do well in a petroleum based grease, they'll swell and/or fall apart. Silicone might be the way to go there.

The ammeter's aren't accurate. Different alternators have different output curves. They're all much lower at idle though. That's the basic problem. A 60 amp and a 90 amp alternator can have the same output at low RPM. Added a picture of some GM alternator curves, same model but still different curves. You can waste a ton of time with reman alternators. Most people describe them as "crap". in general, after having several fail. On the plus side though, you are learning quite a bit output your charging system which will help you in the long run. One problem you can run in to is that while working on the charging system, the battery gets run down, then the system is using significant extra amps to recharge the battery. So the battery load maxes out the available current at idle. Starting with a fully charged battery can get you back on top.

With today's fuel and the fact that you live in a hot part of the country you'll probably experience some hot-start issues if you keep the stock system. A few of those and the "time capsule" nature of the car will become much less relevant. I like to experience the real problem myself, so maybe wait and see but be ready to work fast.

Don't forget the clutch magnet on the AC compressor. I had a reman alternator that had a similar problem at low RPM. It just didn't put out enough current. I couldn't use the wipers at idle without them getting stuck halfway across the windshield. Luckily for me, the quality of the reman was so low that it died after about eight months. I replaced it with an old Nissan original junkyard alternator and things improved dramatically. Cleaning up numerous electrical connections helped a bit more, and I don't even think about it anymore, except for when I realize that it's probably over 33 years old and won't last forever. I still have the replacement lifetime warranty reman in the box, waiting, but I took the pulley off of it to make a 90 amp Maxima alternator conversion. The short story is, the reman alts just aren't very good. Maybe ask for an exchange anyway, just to see if you get a better one.

Chromed? Seriously, post the link, let's see what you got.

There's a wire that should be doing that. Probably just needs to reconnect it. The meter confirms that the wire needs some work.

Don't forget heat. Even a little causes enough expansion to make a difference.

Show how you have it wired? Stops a lot of guessing. Put a meter on the coil positive terminal and watch voltage when starting.

Effectiveness of the strippers would depend on the type of paint being stripped. A 2K urethane repaint won't come off like an old 70's era original coating.

You're assuming that the pressure is dropping. But engines can surge with no fuel pressure change. You have an electric fuel pump, powered by the battery, not connected to what the engine is doing except for the vacuum reference (if Jenvey even uses one). That's why measuring pressure is important. Disconnect the vacuum reference when you're measuring to be very sure. The engine will run richer but it will remove any questions for you. Edit - actually it may not. You might have a surge caused by the air-fuel ratio. Still though, the numbers will tell you something. More detail than your description would help a lot also. A video would be great. " it holds back momentarily and surges back and forth " Here's some Jenvey stuff - http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products And Link - http://www.linkecu.com/

You expect a lot from the world. Doubtful that you'll find an esoteric item like these big hose clamps, already chromed for you. Buy what you want and have them chromed, I'd say. Looking for a set of chromed 280Z EFI air intake system clamps is a bit absurd. If you decide to do the chroming, the first link gets you 75% of the way there, as far as starting pieces. 3 of 4. 3 x #15. Practicin' ma words.

Send him a message and make a suggestion. Tell him about the AFM-MAF confusion also. https://zcardepot.com/information/contact

Not sure if you're making a joke or making fun of zcardepot's typo. Looks like what you asked about in your first question.

This guy really needs to advertise more - https://zcardepot.com/fuel/fuel-injection?page=2

Ticking is normal, to a certain extent. Only jumping in to save you some money, before you order parts. If your lash is correct now, it will be the same after you swap out parts. It's the lash that allows the ticking.

I think that he might have been talking about this post. Click on the "S30 Manuals..." and it will take you to another page, Then click on "Download this file", then click on "Fuel-1973...". It should apply to 1972 also. Heat is heat. Lots of good information in there.

I know that Nissan did change the doors for 77-78. Not sure exactly how the panels would change but the window mechanism, door latching, and general seals all changed. You can't put a 77 door on a 76 body. I'd imagine that the various holes, for attaching the panel, and window regulator handles, door latches, etc., changed too.

The thread has a patina...

Seriously though, what are you running? Throttle body injection with Megasquirt? Edit - actually I meant individual throttle bodies. ITB's. Since EFI systems generally have at least one throttle body.