Zed Head

Not really clear what you're trying to describe above. You said the brakes worked. apparently you mean the brake lights? Then the STOP fuse blew? Did the "brakes" stop working then? You said the hazards worked, but then you said they don't work "still". They either worked then a fuse blew and they stopped working, which means there's a short somewhere, or you're describing two different things.

I think that Diseazd is saying that some of the available stainless lines are already longer than rubber. You might not need custom lines unless you want extra long. MSA and others sell the stainless replacements.

You can look at the angle of the half shafts to the wheels and tell if the diff is still forward or has been moved back. The shafts will be at a 90 degree angle if the diff has been moved back, but will have an obvious forward tilt if the diff is in the forward position. Or you can measure the propeller shaft. As I understand it, the A and B transmissions used the same length propeller shaft. But the forward mounted diff used a shorter drive shaft.

Did you post this same question on Hybridz? Are you sure the distributors are different? You're posting years but not mentioning the matchbox ignition module. Does one have the E12-80 and one not?

How does the inside of the cap look? If it's clean and the electrodes aren't corroded it's probably fine for a few more miles. Just realized that I've been running resistor plugs with resistor wires. Not sure what the effects are, I haven't noticed any. Research needed. But it's a reason to mess around a little more. The plugs are new, but the wires old. But I don't think you can get non-resistor wires any more. Dilemma.

On the EFI system the fuel comes from counting sparks, and from the AFM vane position. It might be that somebody has adjusted your AFM, loosening the spring. That would cause the vane to open farther than it should, flooding the engine. Just a guess. The gas smell is a clue. The AFM calibration has worked for people, on the link siteunseen provided above. Look for clues that somebody has messed with it, the black cover might have new silicone or the glue blobs on the wheel have been moved. Another possibility is a bad ECU or bad ECU connections. They tend to go rich or just die completely. Tough to diagnose. You have the PO problem. Who knows what's been done. Somewhere out there is a 77 with a low compression engine, that a PO got running using this site. We told him, but he did it anyway. Forgot to say, it would be worthwhile to go through the testing in the FSM or the EFI book, in the Downloads section of the site. At the ECU connector. This one covers all years up to 1980 -

They're gas-filled and the gas is pressurized so they tend to be difficult to press down if they're new and everything is in order. If the gas has leaked out the shaft will stay down. But the gas isn't meant to hold a load, it just keeps the seal tight and stops foaming, I think. Not clear what you mean by "stiff". Shocks work on rate of motion. I know that mine, when new, would hurt the palm of my hand as I pressed the shaft down. The gas pressure is fairly high, that plus the damping took some effort. And the shaft moves right back up once you let go.

The slug was just laying in the hole and fell right out with a slight poke. I had pulled it out of the package, waved it around in the air as I walked to the car and placed it on the head. Couldn't understand why the bolt/screw wouldn't go in the hole. Took an awl and tried to move the gasket around to find it. One of those WTH situations. I did get my valve lash adjusted about perfectly though, and everything else went back together right. Then passed emissions and got new tags/tabs, so all good in the end. Now I have two years to screw around with the engine. Turns out, in Oregon you can go in and get a free emissions check at any time. If you don't pass there's no penalty. No good reason to sweat it out at the end of the expiration month but I always do.

Install a pet/drain-**** in the lower hose.

Also not clear if it's an easy increase to 3000 or if it's wide open and hold on. The ECU and TPS dump a lot of extra fuel if you put the pedal donw, but meter in slowly if you keep a light foot and wait. Senor might be out there troubleshooting so hasn't come back yet. I just worked my way through another Oregon emissions check myself. Passed, on the third try, but my numbers were a lot better last year. I was starting to get worried.

Sometimes, despite best attempts, things go awry and you have to start over. Not something I commonly look for when using a new gasket. Hard to see with the marks of my alignment attempts but somebody or some machine didn't finish the job.

My Pathfinder breaks studs also. My theory is that it's metal fatigue, from thousands of small back and forth bending motions as the manifold heats and cools. Or as the head heats and cools underneath it. Aluminum moves a lot farther than steel and faster so the stud gets bent back and forth as the aluminum head overshoots the steel manifold, both ways. Metal fatigue doesn't require going beyond the metals yield points either. It's its own thing. Believing that I should go out and replace the end studs now, before they break. The back one is easy but the front one not so much. Might be a good reason to use a bolt instead of a stud on the ends, so that you can replace it as a maintenance item.

Actually, the guy that did today is a new member with a "classic" Z. So I might be off-target. Still feels like a volcanic ash event, much gets buried and probably won't come back to life.

People I've never heard of seem to be using the site to store their photos, like Photobucket, but completely free. Doesn't seem right. No contribution but lots of cost. Conversations get buried when these guys come on and load up the activity with new pictures. Can't be ignored or not seen.

"Sputter" can mean a lot of things. Does it stall and buck, or pop back through the intake, or is it popping out the back end? Does it fell like it's running out of fuel? Could be a fuel supply problem too. I said electrical but I had a vision in my own head of sputtering. Might not be the right one. Just guessing right now. Lacks power after 3000 RPM under load. Sputters (makes me think of misfiring) as it loses power. Never actually tested under load before. That's what I get so far.

You're using "overall" in place of highway gearing, I think. There are usually two reasons people start thinking about transmission or diff changes - the car is sluggish from a stop or takes a lot of clutch to get going or 1st gear is so "short" that they have to shift to 2nd right away, or 5th gear cruising RPM is too low or too high. You have to consider both ends, I think. Depends on which streets you're planning for, city or highway.

Don't forget Maximas and 810s. And probably 510s and other 4 cylinder L series engines. And the diesels (LD's) maybe. Edit - example - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Thermostat-Housing-Upper-Lower-W-Sensors-N47-L24E-Straight-6-Maxima-/262930634787?hash=item3d37e31823:g:ir4AAOSw3utY6s8Y&vxp=mtr Get the top and bottom together. Also, are you deleting any switches? Like the phased pickup switch? One less thing to worry about. Might be able to use a ZX housing. Here's the link with the search term - http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?&_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1311.R1.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xdatsun thermostat.TRS0&_nkw=datsun thermostat housing

Those FJ3's look like a good deal. The cheapy BWD's are still available at OReilly. There are a variety of Bosch injectors that will work also, with hose length modifications. The Bosch EFI system was licensed by a bunch of manufacturers. They all the same basic injector. Edit - that picture reminds me that hose clamps can be expensive also. And you'll need new seals and maybe insulators. Nickels and dimes.

The head has the cam, not the block. If you move the cam over to your new head make sure you do it right. Several ways to go wrong. People say that the square port headers work fine on round port heads, but not vice versa. The question is "what is most important to you?" Getting the engine running quickly and easily. or putting together an engine with more power than stock. You could buy a complete head with cam and rocker arms and install it and be up and running pretty quick. Or you could buy a bare head and use the parts from your damaged N42 head. Many different ways you can go, but you need to define some things. What, exactly, happened to the old N42 head? Maybe it's salvageable.

siteunseen used the T series and had good results. They were less expensive. I don't see them on the page though. BWD makes good stuff, I used a set of theirs for a while. Found the 707T on Amazon. Prices have really gone up. I got my BWD injectors for $34 each at OReilly. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FJ707T-Tru-Tech/dp/B002ELMUCE You might try eBay, there are people out there that flow test them and resell used. I built a tester using a junkyard fuel rail then found junkyard injectors that still had fresh gas n the system. About $6 per injector, I think. But that was back when there were typically a few Z's or ZX's in the yards at all times, just a few years ago. Now I hardly ever see a Z or ZX go through they yards. I have notifications set and they just don't roll through anymore. The hobby's getting expensive. Good luck.

Stick a Q-tip up in to the fuel rail and see if it's rusty. My sticky injector engine had rust in the rail. My first engine started and ran pretty well, but when I tested the injector with a home-made testing rig, they were all unbalanced. You could really feel it when the engine was running too. So, odds are, you'll be best off to get "new" injectors. I put the parens on because I've had old Nissan injectors that were in great shape internally, even though they were all rusty on the outside. If you wanted to look for used. But, several people have used the Standard FJ707 injector and like them. But it looks like the price has gone up quite a bit over the years. Ouch. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

This sounds more like an ignition problem. Electrical. The EFI system runs pretty rich at high RPM under load (the system just dumps an extra 27% of fuel in when the TPS shows full throttle), so any vacuum leaks would probably be compensated. Plus, vacuum leaks are more significant at low air flow levels. At high RPM there's so much more air coming through the normal pathways that the leaks don't really matter.

It's not air, it's exhaust gas. Essentially inert, the oxygen has been burned up. You shouldn't need to adjust any air-fuel ratio components. Might just be coincidental. Did it run perfectly before the EGR system removal? Has it had a tuneup recently, including lash adjustment?

Check what? I don't even know what that means. There's always a bigger engine, or a bigger turbo, or bigger blower, or some combination out there. If your Mustang had one of the Ford six cylinder engines in it, then a rational discussion could be had. 2.8 liters = 171 CI. I'm sure there's a Chevy guy out there with a 502 that would claim window-blowing properties for his big block over your Ford. No interest in getting puffed up over engine numbers. The old Datsun engine in an old Mustang would just be an interesting project.

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