Zed Head
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Everything posted by Zed Head
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We'd like to see if the number rises above 38.5 psi. Plus it's always good to rerun your tests, to verify results. Your earlier test with low battery voltage showed about 35.5 psi. We just want to see consistent verifiable results. It's sounding like you need a new FPR. The test will confirm it. (Assuming that the gauge is good).
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They will tell you if the FPR is the cause of your engine running rich. Hopefully you'll get 36-37 psi with the hose disconnected, and about 30 psi with the hose connected. Then you can move on to other possibilities.
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Sometimes I yell at my television set...
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Not if the FPR is intact. I would start the engine and get a fuel pressure reading. The disconnect the hose and you should see a rise in fuel pressure, because you have removed engine vacuum from the FPR. That's really all you need to do. Those two numbers will tell a lot.
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Some explanation - the FPR reacts to either vacuum or air pressure on that hose. Vacuum will cause the fuel pressure to decrease, pressure will cause it to increase. So if you find the end of the hose that connects to the FPR and blow on it the pressure will increase slightly, If you suck on it the fuel pressure will decrease slightly.
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If the vacuum line to the FPR is connected to the carbon canister that might be part of your problem. It should be connected directly to the intake manifold. So, yes disconnect the other end. But make sure that it is actually the hose that connects to the FPR. Then if you want to have some fun, blow and suck on the end of the hsoe and watch the gauge. You should see a response. But get that baseline no vacuum number first.
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Disconnect the hose to the FPR with the engine running and read the pressure on the gauge. That's the test.
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The FPR, disconnect the vacuum hose to the FPR with the engine running.
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Do that same exact test but disconnect the hose from the FPR to the intake manifold. That's the test!!!. So close.
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So close, so close. I can even see the pressure gauge in the back of one of the pictures. We're really more interested in the fuel pressure at those voltages. We don't really care about the voltage itself. Looks like that latest video might have it.. let's watch.
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And, this has come up before, piston choices are really limited these days. Rockauto has one STD size piston available. One piston. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,engine,piston,5620 Datsun Spirit sells custom pistons. https://datsunspirit.com/shop/
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The ignition system can be used on anything. It's the EFI system that will give problems. You might be fine with your power increases, or you might find that it runs a little rich at the low end, or it pings at the high end. Or it won't pass emissions. The adjustable FPR is a crude way to add fuel at the higher RPM so that the cam has what it needs to make power. But then you'll have to make adjustments to other parts at low RPM or you'll have a gassy smelling car. That's the basic dilemma. The EFI system has no O2 sensors so does not self-correct anything at all. It's designed to produce a certain amount of power at each RPM range. But it actually runs pretty rich at WOT, 27% extra fuel, so there's a little room there without doing too much.
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Post #8 here is good. CO is in the thread but he was on a mission based on the presumption that modern rims wouldn't fit the 280Z hubs. Doesn't seem to have been confirmed. There's a good list to start from.
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That's a good question. Plus, you need an old wheel. But, I'm pretty sure that other people have found late model spares from import cars that swap over directly and fit the spare tire well. There are common 4 1/2" bolt patterns out there. Tried to find some of the threads but haven't yet.
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This would include the carbs. You could probably hear it run with starting fluid but if you want it to keep running, idle, and rev, there will be some cleaning to do.
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Make sure the wires aren't shorted together and the engine should run without it. It is not mission-critical. Good luck. How about a bigger picture of that desert relic? @bret2094
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Is that with a full battery charge? Weird that you had high readings before. Your previous high readings could really only come from having pressure on the vacuum line instead of vacuum, or because your pump in the reading here, above, has low voltage and is runnng slow. Another test would be to disconnect the vacuum line and start the engine. Rev it up a little bit to be sure that you have full voltage. If it's a voltage issue pressure will rise. Then reconnect the vacuum line and reconfirm the high readings that you had before.
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If they've been working fine and this happened suddenly then it sounds like an MC seal has failed. You didn't give much detail. Don't hurt your foot slamming the pedal. You left out calipers and wheel cylinders. Your brake lines are probably okay, they seem to last, despite the rust happening around them. While you have the rotors off you might check your wheel bearings. Pretty easy to change. Also, if you have decent auto shops nearby you might be better off to have the rotors and drums turned, instead of replaced. Some people think that new is better, but, especially with the aluminum drums, that's not always the case. NAPA tries to hang on to their in-house machine shops so might be a good start. I had some rotors turned there and they did good work.
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Your 9/75 drawing is interesting. It mimics what the FSM diagrams show, with the B(lack) link in the back. But my 1/76 car has the link blocks reversed with the B-R block in front, as I showed in my earlier pictures. You can't really swap the blocks by accident either because the wires harness are cut and bent to length. They kind of fall in to place even if you unscrew the link blocks. Of course, it might be that on the manufacturing line they bolted the blocks either front or back willy-nilly. Who knows. Or...somebody put the links in the wrong places on your customer car. Did you look at the labels on the blocks, or just the links? You used "Red" so I assume just the links.
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The red and green are meant to be visible. The parts that need collapsing are the two scraper rings, top and bottom. Shouldn't really be affected by the red and green middle spacer. Maybe they're the wrong rings. Easily test-fitted in the cylinder before installing on the piston. Odd problem. https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/media-global-&-europe/products-and-services/engine_components/piston_ring_sets/en_kolbenringe_poster_a1_final.pdf
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Some time frame would help. Did all of this happen in one day? You said it went away but came back.
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If the red ones with no markings are thicker, overall, than the Yazaki parts, but still 0.3, then logic would say that a green one with no markings that is thinner than the 0.3 red one might be less than 0.3. No marks, no knowing, unless you measure the wire itself. Logic says. No offense intended. The red links are a big (thick) wrench in the works. They are nicely made though, soldered ends and everything.
