Zed Head

If you're going to be a donkey at least get your spelling right. Nobody likes a donkey, especially a lazy one.

Are you running resistor plugs with resistor wires? I'm no expert. And I can't really tell which wires you mean are the secondary wires, or what "pulling kilovolts" means. Anyway, the oscilloscope traces would be interesting if you could paste them in over here. Pretty sure that some of the members here are electrical engineers and would like to see them.

Edit - I just saw that you're using the gap recommended for points. Can't see the traces without becoming a member of the other site. What gap are you running? The Mallory Unilite is not a "high energy" ignition system. It is electronic but runs the same plug gap as a points setup. http://documents.holley.com/mallory_instructions_unilite_distributor_37_38_45_47.pdf

If you're going to do wheels and brakes, and suspension, you might consider dropping everything as an assembly. Struts, control arms, axles, diff will all drop as one sub-assembly. Drag it out and the nuts and bolts will be easier to get to.

"Recently rebuilt" could mean almost anything. I'd get details. Primer can hide a lot. And Houston is next to the salty Gulf. Not sure they don't have rust problems too.

Looks like it might be. The N3500 number doesn't show up on any of the 240Z - 280Z diagrams. Maybe its the ZX gasket.

I posted this before but be careful when pressing on the lens. Mine lost its last bits of flexibility in just a few years. Shattered in to bits. Here's one factory bulb change procedure. They didn't have it in the early FSM's. Found it in 1976. Might be different for earlier. Looks like it just pulls out then has to be unplugged. Spring retention.

This one should work. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Manifold-Egr/From-Aug-76 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-gasket-manifold~14035-p7100.html https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=14035-P7100&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

The CL ad looks legit. But. The phone number comes up as Skykomish Lodge in Washington state. Beware. Might be a phisherman. Or it might be a mistake. John? Good luck to anyone who tries to buy it.

People use "glass packs" all the time to replace the resonator. If you replace it with pipe you'll probably get drone. Glass packs are pretty cheap. If you post a picture of the damage we could probably tell you how to put it back together. https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=MqfDW5KcAoSv0PEP96WAoAE&q=glass+pack+muffler&btnK=Google+Search&oq=glass+pack+muffler&gs_l=psy-ab.3.1.0l4j0i10l2j0l4.1477.8563..8751...3.0..0.116.1042.22j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i131j0i22i30j0i22i10i30.Mq2b0NCN5cY

You're off by $80,000 and behind the times lonetree!!!! John is watching. He fixed the Contact link. The price will be rising soon.

One other thing to be aware of is that when the seal wears really badly it can then wear a groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. There's a metal spring inside the rubber seal that can wear through. Metal on metal then. Your leak looks like a bad one. If the owner pulls the shaft and finds a groove you might want to wait on the repair. The 240Z slip yokes are replaceable. Good luck.

MSA does a fair job of matching their parts. Not sure why you'd want to second-guess them. Is their a part number on their gasket? If the metal ring lands in the gap between the exhaust liner and the head then it won't do much. You do have an N47 head right? The specs on the page you posted say 75-78 which covers square port and round. Something seems off.

You said puddle but didn't show one. Unless that blank video has one in it. Some video formats don't make it through, probably a phone thing. Gear oil has a distinctive smell. That rear seal is known to wear. Did he buy the car for you or is it his?

I was going to post the CL ad Reply thing for a snarky response but it didn't get through. $100,000 between privates? For a 240Z? Holey Moley.

You should post the deal link. That's pretty good. The aftermarket KYB's and others get around normal maintenance. They are basically a shock inside a shock tube.

What was the original price? Never mind, I'm guessing $22,000 was original and you thought that was too low. You think that that car is almost to Excellent level. Pump, pump, pump it up... (90's flashback).

But what's happened, with the price bloat, fits the model. Kidding, but not kidding. Wouldn't be a surprise if URGELIS was behind it.

This might be a clue - "California Datsun Series one 240z justice." Beware... "I will send more photos to interested parties, but pictures do not do this original California Datsun Series one 240z justice."

Congrats, you made sure that it will last much more than a day. Probably months or years now. Greedy. Looks like it's between a 4 and a 3. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1970-datsun-240z https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/Classifications-and-Conditions I thought SD was South Dakota.

Closeout! $15. Will require some fitting. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1982,celica,2.8l+l6,1278402,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+regulator,6124

Most EFI systems from the 70's and early 80's run at 36 psi. 2.5 bar, in European terms. BMW, Volvo, Saab, Mercedes, etc. Might find a cheap one you can retrofit that way.

You should only adjust the AFM (air flow meter is more correct for the year and the car, not mass air flow [MAF] sensor) if somebody has adjusted it before you. Otherwise, never mess with the factory setting. There are blobs of glue that should be intact, holding the spring adjustment in place. Any small leak in to the intake system or crankcase will cause a high idle speed. Large leaks will cause the engine to die. AFM or BCDD problems are possible but last resort. Good luck, have fun.

It runs and is drivable. You're ahead of many. A few things I saw that I didn't see mentioned by others: You should never see 16 volts on the voltmeter. That's not a fusible link problem, that's a bad alternator (actually the regulator in the internally regulated alternator). Assuming that the wires to the T plug on the alt are intact. I think that 4 speeds were an option in 1978. 5 speeds were standard issue. But they are direct swaps so it's possible somebody just blew up the original 5 speed and swapped in an old 4 speed. The engine does not have a functional PCV system. The little filter on the valve cover is a sign. If it was tuned to stock settings it wouldn't even run with the opening to the crankcase, through the valve cover. Unfortunately that means you probably have a tuning adventure ahead of you as you get things back to stock condition. Overall, with the fusible link silicone and the valve cover filter, it looks like somebody has been hacking in the engine bay. good luck. Check out the downloads section for an official 1978 FSM.