Zed Head

The power goes through the tachometer on its way to the coil. If you measure voltage at the coil then there is a clear path through the tachometer. The ignition module provides a ground to let current flow, then a spark is created when that circuit is broken. 246's diagram shows the path (it is missing the ground from the IC ignition box though). It's easy to confuse voltage with current. You might describe what your meter reads at the + and - terminals of the coil with the key on. There should be voltage on both terminals.

The "distance piece" AKA spacer, is meant to match the hub, not the axles. So, mixing up axles shouldn't matter. If you got 220 ft-lbs on the nut then there shouldn't be any axial play around the spacer, side-to-side, because you've clamped the spacer between the two inner races of the bearings. The bearings themselves are not high precision bearings. They're very tough ball bearings but can have some small amount of play of the balls in the races. I think if everybody went out and wiggled their rear wheels they'd find some play. If it rotates freely your bearings are probably fine.

Doesn't look like Nissan's link, which would be the most Yazaki-like, I'd guess. I think the the aftermarket vendors are probably selling "big" links, 0.69 mm^2. Get your links from Nissan.

Are MSA's and others' links made by Yazaki? That's my latest question (2nd edit). Check out zcardepot's page. Edit - the red links look thicker than the black one. https://zcardepot.com/products/fusible-link-wire-set-280z-77-78

Not a problem. I don't always maintain the nicest tone in my own posts. The internet is not the world's best communication tool. Now, off to go comment on CO's last post...

It is funny how some of us look at things differently. I saw three 5 arrows and one 6 arrow in the picture, then went down to see what 5 and 6 were, in the table. The table says that 5 is a 1.25, and 6 is a 0.3. I stopped there, with three 1.25's and one 0.3. That was my path of thought. But, once you're looking at the table, you can look to the right to see quantity and you see one 1.25 and three 0.3's. So the diagram is redundant, but the redundancies don't match. And if you look closely you can't really tell where the arrows for 5 and 6 on the front "case" are pointing. They both end at the inboard link. I'm just glad the little sticker-picture on my car is well-drawn and intact. I hope it's correct.

Not even sure what this conversation is about now. I was supporting your comment about mistakes in the fiche. You mentioned placement, I mentioned quantity. Let's move on.

So the "key" is not the number on the diagram? 3 and 4 are the link blocks with covers, "case", and 5 and 6 are links? I'm seeing three 1.25's and one 0.3.

Looks like they also got their numbers backward. Three 1.25 links (key 5), and one 0.3 (key 6).

Really just want to know where MSA and others get their red links, and what I have on mine. I don't know if I have 0.69 new red or 0.3 old red, or if new red is 0.3 after all. A test for other people would be nice too. Plus, sometimes I test things even though they're not a problem. I can't easily get to the conductor to measure it with the fittings on the end. Surprised that the MSA guys didn't reply. They've been around, on the Koni strut thread.

It's shown in the 1972 FSM, Engine Electrical chapter.

I got the impression that they were localizing the melting to a small specific spot, instead of the whole wire, for FTX over FLWX. Based on your translation. I wonder if a good meter could distinguish between red and brown links. They supply resistance numbers. Here's what Nissan wrote in 1976 with their Service Bulleting about changes.

It's Whatsapp. Edited, never mind. No need to be insulting. Not a good look for you.

Wouldn't you need to know what the smallest gauge is among all of the circuits on that link? I've wondered about Nissan making a mistake but it seems unlikely that they would repeat it year after year, through various FSM's, as other links change size along the way. Like from 76 to 77. They changed a green 0.5 to a brown 0.3. Somebody had to have done some calculations there. Maybe the red came from somebody else second-guessing the engineers? But if 0.3 hasn't been melting, what reason would you have to go to 0.5? Extra risk for no benefit.

Here is a 1/76 build date 1976. I just left what was there when I got it. Cleaned them up and gave them a little extra crimp. Obviously a driver, not a show car. I think those are the original caps, they're in good shape too. With patina.

Didn't realize that it was that bad. Can you buy their products through Amazon? Amazon is bigger than any country so they can control their own shipping costs. Just asking, you might be surprised. Down here we are slowly, actually rapidly, turning in to one giant commercial entity. USA LLC. Everything is for sale, even people.

Just offering some clarity for MSA. They might, accidentally, be the cause of some of those smoke shows out there. Should be fixed.

Actually they started in Brown. Somehow red got in to the picture and sucked many people in, apparently. EuroDat had all of the info to the right path in his first post, I see after looking at the supercesion trail. So, what is MSA doing? They have the wrong diagram, putting weak links in to high current spots, plus, maybe, they are doubling the area of two to three of the links even if they end up in the right spots. Fat red, 0.69, for thin brown, 0.33. Go through Nissan for fusible links.

If it's already started and straight, you should be able to tap it on through, with a piece of pipe like grannyknot said. Put some lube on the axle below it. You can put quite a beating on the races, just try to avoid transferring that load to the balls. Take care of the balls. Don't Brinell.

Maybe. Probably. What bearings did you get? Can't see the part number from out here. Hope they didn't come in that Home Depot bag.

You guys should just call them directly and tell them that their new policy doesn't work for you. Often these decisions are made by people who don't understand the consequences. And, somehow, these days, we've all been (re)trained to do everything by computer. I actually just called the local post office by phone and talked to a real person, about my new delivery guy delivering the wrong mail to my address. It was weird. He said that he would talk to the new guy and get it straightened out. It was like a time warp, talking to a person and solving a problem. Just saying...the old ways still work sometimes. https://www.eastwood.com/paints.html

The module needs a good ground also. Power and ground. Plus the ZX distributors are known for breaking the magnetic ring under the stator. And they have bad bushings which let the sis pointed wheel contact the spikes on the outer ring. Lots of small things to check with a ZX distributor.

Could your research have been about steel braid, not cloth?

Probably has some good parts. Haven't seen a Z or a ZX in the wrecking yards for many months. They are getting really scarce compared to when I first got my car ten years ago. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/RNDZmWFpLhwXDRuD4JaOOt651

Here's another thing to worry about, and one I haven't found an easy solution for - are the red links that many of us have on our cars in the "Br" spot 0.33 mm^2 like they're supposed to be or are they 0.69 mm^2 like the atlanticz.ca link shows. I have a newer thicker red link and an older thinner red link on my car in the two Br spots. I haven't fixed it but might if I knew where to get bona fide 0.33 mm^2 links. That would be part 2 of the question.