Zed Head

I went back a few posts and see the part about how the car ran well when there was a gap between the AFM and the throttle body. If I read it right. The fact that the idle adjustment screw doesn't raise idle speed implies that your AFM vane is stuck. Take the black cover off and see if the counterweight moves when you use the throttle. It should. And you should set the AFM idle screw back to where you started with it. It's not an idle speed screw, it's an air-fuel ratio adjustment screw.

What is the reading on Pin 13? We need numbers. And what color are your injectors?

gnosez shows that he's in Italy. I don't think he is but his name does sound like "Gino says". @gnosez And Will S. @Will S Those are the only two. https://www.classiczcars.com/membermap/

A few people have responded that he's talking to the wrong person. On the other hand, it seems possible that old cars are not allowed in Italy. Maybe in the highly populated areas like Rome. He hasn't really said where he is located. Here in the States the rules can be different in the metro areas compared to the rural areas.

It does not exist. Nissan did not produce such a certificate, from what I've seen over the years. Nobody has ever shown such a certificate in any collection of provenance, for any Z car, even the $310,000 car recently sold. You should just put your own document together using the pages from the front of the Factory Service Manuals and the Owners' Manuals..

That's a bummer then. The caps are super-expensive. I tried to find one for my 76 and couldn't do it. https://zcardepot.com/products/gas-cap-fuel-lid-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-76?_pos=6&_sid=0d0ab3a6a&_ss=r

This sub-forum might help - https://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/category/7-want-ads/

I converted your message for you. Looks like a typical government bureaucracy. Find the oldest person in the building. They will probably know how to get it done. "Thanks for your help. But that's not what they asked me. They need an official certificate from the manufacturer or a responsible body that describes the technical data of the car in a single sheet. In Italy this machine has never been registered and for this reason the Civil Motorization Office does not have official data. I purchased the car in Germany but the German documents are not enough to be able to register it in Italy. What the civil motorization office asks for is a certificate of origin from the manufacturer on the chassis of my car"

Looks like you have a separate problem of a leaking filler neck. Unless the fuel is all the way up to the top of the neck and is leaking from the gas cap. Take the cap off and see where the fuel level is. Fuel should never leak from the filler area. Here is the document that describes the heat soak problem.

Pretty ingenious. Easier than drilling, for sure.

Did you use a meter to check for power at one side of the fuse? Might be a fusible link. Download the FSM and the wiring diagram and start probing. EL = electrical. The diagram is in the back of the chapter I think. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

Apparently, Al, AKA URGELIS, has started a new company called Doctor Datsun Restorations. He doesn't show his name on the new site but he seems to be the guy behind it. Just posting so that people will know the history before getting involved. History is full of fly-by-night companies and people, who change identities after they wear one place out. One guy recently had a good experience though. Maybe he's changed. More history will tell.

You're saying he can't spell either? https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/13357-urgelis/

He might do good work now but if there's a problems you'll probably have problems getting them resolved.

One of these should work. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/17-owner-manuals/

Is this Al the same Al that owns California Datsun. AKA URGELIS on the forum? He changed his company name before from Datsun Parts LLC. Maybe his stripes have changed but they seemed pretty deep back then.

There's a pretty extensive test procedure for the alt and the regulator in the FSM. They even show how to adjust the regulator. Old school stuff.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Does it have a 4 barrel carb and manifold? Just curious, I'd guess it does. Still, you gotta learn what those wires do. And you should do some inspection and maintenance on that ZX distributor. It's rusty and they are prone to breaking if the bushing gets worn.

Does the car run and drive now? It's sounding like you bought a ZX that's been modified and might not even run. Lots of things not connected. I think that there are other ways to use the MSD system, with the ZX module triggering the MSD. But, you don't know which wire is which so getting there would be quite a stretch for you. You'd be better off to learn how what you have works before trying to modify anything. You have a ways to go.

The green and red wires are your "mag pickup" wires. You'll have to extend them after you unplug them from the black box ignition module.. If you want to use the MSD system.

They do not. No offense but I'm not sure you know what the coil is. That black box in your last picture is the ignition module. You have a Nissan factory stock ZX distributor and ignition module. It's actually a very good ignition module. No significant reason to try an MSD ignition system. Your tach will probably stop working after you figure out where the wires go and get it connected. A common problem. By they, I mean these.

There are always at least two valves open in the engine. I've never been a big fan of that kind of test although it can be informative. You'll blow smoke through an open intake valve and can get leakage past the rings. Plus the PCV valve. Have you checked the PV valve? Don't forget that the FAST system is basically the same as the stock Nissan system. Same sensors, same responses. Tuneability to cover mistakes is better but you'll just be covering up problems. Still looks like you haven't really absorbed what we were saying - rich, wet, plugs is not typical of a vacuum leak. Not sure why you're looking for leaks.

Rockauto is my favorite spot to go just to see what's out there. Lots of long cylindrical choices, some are probably the same pump rebranded. One Beck Arnley. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

I zoomed in on your picture and it looks like you have a ZX distributor (spiky triangles). So there should be an ignition module on the side of it. Not sure who added the thick red wires. Might even be that somebody used a GM HEI module on the side of your ZX distributor. Take a good closeup, from the side, of whatever those red wires are connected to. You might have to remove it and use the wires that you can just see inside the edge of the distributor.