Zed Head

The early Bosch style injectors just sprayed a stream. Primitive.

The sides don't match. The driver's side is sticking out, the passenger side is even. This car is a driver, not a looker, I think.

You just beat me... I was about to post that the car looks like a fairly beat up old 73 240Z with a nice engine in it. Look at the paint and the fender flare work in the pictures. For 25-40K he should at least splurge on some aftermarket fenders. Don't know. I'd need to see a build sheet with some big numbers on that engine to get up over 15. Just me... If he cut the fenders to make room for the tires, he probably cut dollars off the sale price.

It's pretty easy to "verify" your own injectors, at least as far as wide open flow rate. You can put them on a fuel rail and measure output. Most reconditioning is just a cleaning and a new inlet screen, if possible. Often it's just cleaning. Besides the inlet screen and the hose and the pintle cap, these old injectors cannot be "rebuilt". What injectors do you have? Are they original? Pictures are always good.

Interesting. Comments are funny. It has an R180 diff. And an ECU Masters engine control. Never heard of them but they look like a reasonable engine management option. New knowledge. https://ecumasterusa.com/

Four posts up. siteunseen's post. The grinding noise is probably teeth on teeth. Note sure why the post numbers are gone.

Might be a dirty throttle body and blade. Nissan changed the PCV system in 77 because the PCV gases were gumming up the throttle. The fact that you can stop it by moving the throttle back with your foot is a sign. Mine only did it when the engine got good and warm.

That would be about a 17% power loss. The 15 degree limit, or less, is a fairly common problem. Somebody in the past probably installed your oil pump incorrectly. Or you have the wrong base on your distributor. You don't need more than 15% initial. You can wait on fixing it. Getting these things tuned up right is a long slow process for most, after they've sat.

Post a picture with the cap off. We don't even know what kind of distributor you have,

I missed the "C". So $832 USD opening bid, $1418 buy it now. Still up there, not so bad though. No bids yet. Still cheaper than CD. https://www.californiadatsun.com/transmission/transmissions/

The gauge is adjustable. A screw on the back. Still need an external meter to be sure of the adjustment.

Take the cap off? Look?

The Nissan u-joints are high precision pieces. Final sizing is done by their color-coded washers of various thickness. I bought a set of new $20 each Precision u-joints and basically ruined a set of half-shafts. They were looser with new aftermarket than they were with used Nissan. If you're not buying new Nissan (~$80 each if you can find them) think twice about replacing the used ones.

So this is an eBay auction? Why did you break up the url? Just make it a click-through. Starting bid $1100. Buy it now $1875. And the part is in Canada. Good luck with that. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/-/202911048885

I would go to the diagram. Identify the pins that power the solenoid coils and the pins that are the circuit being made and broken. Go from there. The Ignition Relay doesn't have that many pins to figure out. I found one on EE-5. You might have to go through a few pages to ID the power sources and circuits, but the relay itself can be tested alone with a diagram. Notice that it grounds through the mounting bolts so if you have it just hanging from the wires it might not work. Nissan added a dedicated ground wire terminal in the ZX's.

Just realized that I didn't really absorb the full title of this thread, I just l saw 280Z and looked at the picture. It says "1st gear" in the title but the picture is of overdrive (5th) and reverse. Not sure where the mixup is happening, if gnozez posted the wrong picture or just got turned around mentally. It happens.

Funny, but the gear is the same part number for both, until later, with overlap from 76 - 78. Interchangeable. So it could be a truck gear in a 280Z if I read right. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/pickup-1972-1979/power-train/transmission-gear/5-speed-(from-aug-76)/41 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-gears/5-speed/40

I've read the 620 transmissions might be shorter. Can't tell much about that one from that single picture.

For going backwards?

It looks like a heavy duty straight cut reverse gear.

12 is half capacity. When lead acid batteries get fully discharged bad things happen. I had one in the garage that I kept charged but it went dead a couple of times. Then it was toast. Wouldn't hold a charge. Apparently the plates get coated and don't transfer the lead to the acid. Like having a smaller battery in a big package. There are internet stories about how to save them. Drain the acid, rinse the plates, put new acid in. At the end it might work and you have a bunch of nasty lead contaminated acid to deal with. You can also find methods of charging at high amperage to regenerate the plates, but you have to be careful of hydrogen gas and boiling acid. You can probably gamble on five used batteries and find a winner for less pain. It's a fun subject to study but it gets complex. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/battery/bat_volts.php

I usually punch a hole in them then use a screw in the hole to pull on. That seal is probably pretty small though. That pipe with the hole in it is pretty slick.

What is timing set to now? Are you sure that the vacuum advance is connected properly and works? Does centrifugal advance work? I'd measure timing at idle. Rev it up and see if timing advances. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose with the light connected and see if anything happens. It shouldn't if it's connected properly.vacuum advance is ported vacuum. Rev the engine with no vacuum advance to be sure centrifugal is working. Connect your vacuum advance hose to a full time vacuum source and see if timing advances. Make sure everything is working right, set your timing to a conservative number then go drive it. See if it responds better to pedal to the floor compared to easing your way up in RPM. The distributors on these old cars tend to get gummed up and have various parts break. You could easily be stuck at a single timing setting.

Never really understood why people overprice their cars, then say that they'll entertain offers (obviously going to be lower than asking), but then say "don't go too low or I'll get angry". Just set a reasonable price and make the sale. He has 900 + 1350 + 1200 in parts included in the asking price. Subtract that from $11,000 and you're at $7,550. He can't get mad at that since those are his numbers.