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240zadmire

1977 280z - weatherstrip kit

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Hi everyone.

 

I'm in search of a weatherstrip kit for the car.

The prices seem to range some what $228 to $300+  a kit.

few questions:

- Anyone using any of the kit below

  1. carparts.com
  2. zcardepot.com
  3. zcarsource.com
  4. ocautocarpets.com
  5. thezstore.com

 

I'm sure there are a few more kit from other sources as well.

It doesn't say the kit have the groove for the chrome on top of the windshield and hatch back.

please share your experience how's the fitment as I read some kit doesn't seal well on the windshield top corners and doors won't close.

 

regards

 

 

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no body have every buy a kit before? is it a bad idea? sourcing one piece at a time?

though there are various vendors, but seem to all come from the same source.

 

any advice?

 

regards

 

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There does not seem to be a kit that has all good parts.  Best to piece-meal the parts, based on how well they work.

 

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The Kia Sportage seals are well spoken of from all I've read. I got lucky and bought one of the last complete seal kits from MSA. They worked perfect, at least the half of the kit I've installed so far. A few fumes are intoxicating to me, not liked so much by the dog that rides with me. He sleeps very well which scares me.

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That’s so sad.  At the minimum I need windshield, rear hatch and whatever the rear hatch needs.  Doors, quarters are all brittle and cracked.  the only rubber on my car that can be salvage are the 2 underneath the doors.  Still flexible and seal nicely.  Everything else is trash.  
So disappointing to know that there are kits out there and don’t fit nicely.  Isn’t the body from 70-78 marginally identical. There has to be a way... 

when you mention Kia Sportage, that is for the doors seal. Do you know what year/model of the Kia?

 

much appreciated .

 

 

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My experience ....

1  The Precision seals (sold by many of the above mentioned vendors) the windshield seal works & fits well with no gaps including the fit of bright trim, also the quarter window seals.  I paid a lot of attention to fitment and positioning  the seal and the trim perfectly on the glass before installation.

2  For the hatch window seal I went with OEM Nissan, about $190, for the difference in price, I considered it worth it.   The outer hatch Precision seal is fine.

3  The door seals are the biggest issue,  I have used the Kia 0K018-59760B seal on my hatch, fits and works well.  Others report they work perfect on the doors.

I suspect the 2002 Kia Sportage seals  may no longer being made now that it is 2020....

I have some Vintage rubber seals coming for my neighbors project 240 now ready for paint.  Will comment on fitment when that stage is reached.

Edited by S30Driver
addition
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@S30Driver

thats very informative.  I’ll just pull the plug and get the kit.  Figure still cheaper than buying one at a time.  What doesn’t fit, doesn’t fit and will source some other alternatives.  I really want the windshield and hatch to have that slot for the chrome.  After all, that’s what stand out of our car era.  From reading, look like there shouldn’t be any need for the glue on the windshield and hatch at all.  It should just drop in.

 

please keep us posted on your project as well.

and thanks for the part number of the doors seal

regards

 

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[mention=20012]S30Driver[/mention]
thats very informative.  I’ll just pull the plug and get the kit.  Figure still cheaper than buying one at a time.  What doesn’t fit, doesn’t fit and will source some other alternatives.  I really want the windshield and hatch to have that slot for the chrome.  After all, that’s what stand out of our car era.  From reading, look like there shouldn’t be any need for the glue on the windshield and hatch at all.  It should just drop in.
 
please keep us posted on your project as well.
and thanks for the part number of the doors seal
regards
 


Following this thread with interest!

At the start of my Z ownership journey, I bought a few bits and pieces I needed and looking back, I should have just bought the full kit for cost effectiveness. If you do store unused rubbers*, make sure they aren’t in a loft that gets super hot in the summer and super cold in the winter. Being a natural product they do carry on degrading.

Worst case you eBay the unused ones and get a lot of your money back on eBay or in the club.

Are the chrome trim pieces still available? In the UK I bought what at the time I was told by Nissan was probably the last of the front trim about 3 years ago. The tears are NLA :(




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On 8/17/2020 at 6:54 PM, 240zadmire said:

Yeah... OCCarpets.com   Man... if you get the stuff just check what you get precisely and exact if it fits.. they gave me some carpets for a 2 seater IN a 4 seater kit.....  grrr.. i discovered that after 2 years because my first painter took a lot of time.. and then did'nt finish the car.. :facepalm:  Now painted it at a prof shop partly my self!

JUST ALWAYS CHECK THE STUFF YOU GET THE MINUT IT GETS IN..  DOES IT FIT PERFECTLY..

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4 hours ago, AK260 said:

Are the chrome trim pieces still available? In the UK I bought what at the time I was told by Nissan was probably the last of the front trim about 3 years ago. The tears are NLA ?
 

 

Yes.... ZcarDepot has both front & rear oem trim.  Spendy at over $300 each kit.

https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/windshield-and-hatch-glass-trim-chrome-set-240z-260z-280z?variant=19281681449073

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Thank you! Even speedier if you add shipping to the UK + 30% import duties

But good to know they are still available.

I don’t suppose you know if they are Nissan OEM? Maybe Nissan UK may be able to get them to us cheaper.

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In my experience with the trim, it is actually stainless, not chromed, so it polishes back up nicely with steel wool and a buffer. 

Therefore as an alternative to new, a used set if carefully removed from say a parts car by cutting the rubber seal to release it without bending and distorting it is a excellent option.  I invested in the trim tool to re-install it in the seals channel before putting the glass back in.

The trim re-installs easily with a soapy lube in the channel if its shape is not changed on removal.   Unfortunately, I am guessing parts cars are few and far between in the UK.

It is OEM from ZcarDepot,  the 200 prefix in their part  number is the key for OEM.

Edited by S30Driver
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One more thing, for the door seals issue, is the issue relate to door not able to completely close that water leak in? Is it too thick that doors hard to close?

is the seal a one piece that not fit at all?

regards

 

 

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I know of two Zed door seal manufactures, Vintage rubber and Pacific Rim. The seals made by Vintage rubber are far superior than those from Pacific Rim.

Who sells what, I don't remember. I used the Kia sportage seals and find them very good. Compression is about 25% which is reccomended for a good seals without deforming the window frame. You will need to cut and glue the seal at the top rear of the window section.

The Kia seal will work on the rear hatch, but it is a different profile and has about 40% compression which makes the lid harder to close. No cutting required.

I purchased 3 from Kia in South Korea for $37,50 ($12,50 ea) and $8,50 shipping.

 

Edited by EuroDat
Found old thread. Link added

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9 hours ago, EuroDat said:

I know of two Zed door seal manufactures, Vintage rubber and Pacific Rim. The seals made by Vintage rubber are far superior than those from Pacific Rim.

Who sells what, I don't remember. I used the Kia sportage seals and find them very good. Compression is about 25% which is reccomended for a good seals without deforming the window frame. You will need to cut and glue the seal at the top rear of the window section.

The Kia seal will work on the rear hatch, but it is a different profile and has about 40% compression which makes the lid harder to close. No cutting required.

I purchased 3 from Kia in South Korea for $37,50 ($12,50 ea) and $8,50 shipping.

 

say, if the compression is what we're looking for, can we run a vacuum hose in inside to achieve the "hardness"?

got to experience it.

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13 minutes ago, 240zadmire said:

https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/quarter-window-rubber-vertical-seal-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=07efb0f87&_ss=r

 

300-064_280Z_side_seal_rubber.jpg?v=1580

 

this piece is quite pricey.  Sort of molding the rubber with the metal inside.  Anyone attempt to just "glue" the ends part?

MSA $61.  ouch.

 

I’m not sure what you mean by glue the end parts. But I ordered the precision ones from MSA they needed some massaging to install, but seal nicely.

better than the cheap 10 dollar ones they have, I’m not sure how those really sealed anything. 

 

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That piece, by look at the diagram is to complete the #2 seal.

 

of course #1 is the metal piece a long with 2 screws to help tighten the housing of the glass. The ends rubber on top and bottom are to fill in the gaps I suppose.  What I meant is to have a sheet of rubber between the metal bar and the housing. It should give same functionality/intended. ? No?

image.jpeg

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That might work, there is also a section of the rubber that acts like a seal to the elements, I think if you get it thick enough you can achieve this function. 

Edit:

I used

  • 1120A333 25ft

To do the door seals, I ordered this from McMaster-Carr

 

17929420-FC11-4C50-A852-2B47E2318CD7.jpeg

99E2B091-9F72-43A4-90FE-F976248546D3.jpeg

Edited by heyitsrama

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Hi everyone,

 

got the kit made by Precision.

there are many ways to install the kit to windshield and quarters.

I like to share how I open the housing for the quarter and how I installed windshield and trim.  Hope you find it useful and don’t repeat if you see I did it wrong.

the quarter housing is pretty self explain.  However, after 40+ years, or rubber hardening and make it a bit hard to open.  Precision YouTube clip shows show to open it as well.  I had to use a flat screw and gently tap on the L bracket to loosen it up.  I don’t want to spread the housing as I afraid i would widen the chrome.  
9BB495CA-5C6C-4BB6-B991-87CB385A518A.jpeg
 

the new rubber seem to be slightly thinner and not exactly identical to the old one.  The over all structure is the same.  The flapper toward to inside is missing from the original.  It creates a gap between the quarter housing and the chassis. That can be filled in with a thin strip foam.  No big deal.

D14DDB54-369F-42A5-8E56-93019982FDA7.jpeg
 

For the windshield.  I use the trimmer line I had instead of robe.  Whatever available in the garage.... seem to work well for me.

0B5D9C1C-A7DF-41D3-ABFE-766EDCF2B421.jpeg

remove the vent guard on the dashboard for easy access and allow the windshield rubber to drop in.

Line up the windshield as best as you can before pulling the trimmer line.  Press the windshield down gently but not too hard to allow the lip to bite the chassis as you pull the trimmer line.  I did all by myself so take your time.  Once the windshield is in, try to adjust the 4 corners to fill in the gap.  What I did before drop the windshield in is to push the rubber to the corners as much as possible. This will allow you to fill in the gap easier if any.

1D18712A-E34A-4700-9505-8324CA87C18B.jpeg

3E2F1848-E7C4-49CE-AAF1-8CCD92A31554.jpeg
 

The windshield is easy part.  The trim on top on the windshield is tough.  I’m sure there is a tool for it.  What I did was using the same principle when install the windshield.  I used the wire I instead of the trimmer line. I have 28 gauge wire but it’s too thin.  I double it.  But perhaps a 24 or even 22 gauge wire is better.....

tie one end to the wiper, or whatever.  Position/slide the shim to one side.  Push down the shim, not too hard, and pull the wire up slowly.  Be generous with the soap to allow the wire lift up the rubber. Carefully not to cut the rubber with the wire... take your time and you’ll get it in nicely.

3C4145B3-5B97-471A-9897-F83C4B6B5D1E.jpeg

FE0AE4AA-34BB-4702-934A-57A8C658EC9B.jpeg

5C5B8CDA-415C-4900-83D4-228441A87D64.jpeg

B45415C0-1F8B-42AF-B7F3-FC860EFAE638.jpeg

stay tune for doors and hatch next 

regards

 

716C75C0-D00C-41C3-A9F4-FBB952E3613E.jpeg

32585CA5-6459-4F11-AE9D-DED448635775.jpeg

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I'm not sure.. but did you first install the glass with rubber, and then the trim? i had to install the rear window of a 280zx and i installed first the trim IN the rubber (which was on the glass) and then put the whole window with rubber and trim IN the rear door..

Installing the strips of stainless in the rubber is very difficult after fitting it in the car , much easier to install rubber on glass and fit the stainless in the rubber (with lots of lube) and then put it in the car.

(The rear glass stainless of a 280zx is edged and impossible to fit after you fitted the glass(and rubber).  I can imagine that the trim can be fitted in a 240z front screen but installing it before you put it in the car is much easier.

Edited by dutchzcarguy

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@240zadmire, It is much easier to mount the SS trim in the windshield/rubber seal before installing on to the car.  You took the harder route but it came out nicely, I love the colour!

Even though I have Kia seals on my Z and they work great I installed a complete Precision weatherstrip kit last winter on a 280z and everything seals perfectly including the doors, I think Precision has fixed the problem with their door seals but the message hasn't got out yet.

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@dutchzcarguy, @grannyknot
 

I figured I must have done it reverse ... it’s the right/left brain thing I guess ?. Will try on hatch your way. 
 

@carcrazyken I got the kit from a gentlemen on OfferUp.  Same price at $300.  Just convenience ... otherwise would take some time to ship.. 

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