Zed Head

The seal is not good. I used a steel bolt on my OReilly Auto radiator. Drilled a hole in it so it worked like the plastic ones. It's surprising how few options there are for those plugs, and all of the options are poor quality.

I think that using a parallel circuit flattens the curve, whereas a series circuit moves the whole curve up. The ECU expects a certain curve rate. Probably create new problems. CO and SteveJ probably draw charts in their heads on this kind of stuff. @Captain Obvious @SteveJ

This seems to fit somehow...

I got on the Google and found that you can buy them already made. Dang. More fun to make my own. https://www.carguygarage.com/accessories/decor/lighted-signs/billet-aluminum-distributor-lamp?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8fr7BRDSARIsAK0Qqr4x-kbhC6fU3Oxx0Ri-g0S_bB_WkhvBNxZwOSFqrWym0d6nBvDAOf4aAjAXEALw_wcB

The lamp shade looks like an air filter! C'mon man!

The fluid expands a lot though when it's warm. So, do it when the engine and transmission are cool.

Good point. I was thinking in terms of unmetered air not intake manifold vacuum. Another reason to just get an FPR that is in spec.

COVID-19 is spreading in the WH like a virus.

Watching the news about the crazy plot to kidnap the Governor of Michigan and noticed the lamp behind the guy talking. Check out the plugs in the base.

I've never seen a sticker like the one on yours. Might be a replacement or rebuilt.

He's in CA where they do the rolling 15 and 25 mph tests. The idle air bypass probably won't help much, I'd guess. He's so close, I'd bet that an FPR that has correct pressure would get him in spec. 40 psi is 10% high. Whenever I worked on my car to pass emissions (idle only) I would get CO and HC numbers that were much higher than he's getting and could get them to drop with small changes in fuel pressure (I had an adjustable FPR). He just needs a tiny change to get his CO numbers down I think. Tiny. Maybe, in the same vein as the idle air bypass, he could just open up one of the vacuum ports on the manifold. Maybe the one for the heater controls. The FPR is probably more effective though.

This was meant as a joke. Thanks AK for clarifying.

Great news. Curious...was it low? Asking for future reference. Your problem doesn't really fit fluid change but might fit low level. Regardless, your transmission will be much happier with that fluid. On to the next problem. There are threads about the speedo connection O-rings. Can't find them right now but they do exist.

You could have drilled a hole in the bottom, filled it with propane and lit it, like a potato cannon. Wearing eye protection of course. 😵

A 78 rail with regulator would swap right over, bolt-on. It's actually a better rail it has fewer hose connections. But you should be able to change the FPR without removing the rail. Cut the hoses to get it off and slide the hoses back and forth to get it on. But, again, if you have the old hoses on your 77 it might be a good time to change them, so the 78 rail would be a good option. Always more work to do and decisions to make.

10% is the key that most use.

Make sure that your gauge is good, maybe doublecheck with a different one. But, yes, pressure is supposed to be about 36.3 (actually 2.5 bar, converted).

No offense, but how do you define "bad"? Be careful with that spray bar. They're fragile.

How do cylinder pressures look?

Those are kind of high. People have noticed that some of the aftermarket FPRs run high on pressure. It should be 36.3. Your pressure readings of 40 and 32 would make it a little bit richer. FPRs are expensive though and there's no guarantee a new one would be right. If you can find another for cheap, maybe on craigslist or eBay or here on CZCC, to try out it might be worth it. A little bit here, a little bit there and you'll hit the numbers. Forgot to ask about your AFM. It's a stock Nissan part right? Some of the aftermarket AFMs run rich.

Weird that it has a 5 speed. But definitely worth a look. Better hurry, it's in upstate New York. Winter is coming.

p.s. (prescript) - every connection along the path to the ECU can add resistance. So clean them all, even the ones at the ECU to make sure you have the lowest resistance possible. Don't miss the bullet connectors by the fuel rail. Take your measurement first though so you'll know if things got better after cleaning and you have a better chance at emissions. The shape of the curve won't change. If you're in spec at one temperature you'll be in spec at another. People have noticed though that some sensors run differently than other sensors. In other words, the whole curve is moved, so some run leaner or richer. So, if you find that your sensor is at the high end on resistance and you want to take a chance with $28 you might just buy a new sensor and see if it's leaner than the one you have. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17b08/11-3450

Stuff that should be on the news and in our minds instead of the "reality" show. https://www.cbsnews.com/news/california-wildfires-break-record-scorch-more-than-4million-acres-2020-10-04/

I'm not cgsheen but I'm pretty sure the depth comes from the clear coat. Gives it that wet look.

Of all people, this guy should be smart. Didn't want to look weak though. Now he's 66 and has COVID-19. https://www.cnn.com/2020/10/02/us/notre-dame-president-covid-trnd/index.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_I._Jenkins