Zed Head

Two non-rights do not make a non-wrong.

Only if you remove the oil pump switch plug on 1978 280Z. It's a flaw. A 280Z fuel pump will only run with the key at Run if the operator intentionally changes something or there is an error in the system. It is well described in each individual 280Z Factory Service Manual in the Engine Fuel chapters. Except for the flaw in the 1978 fuel pump control system, which is described on one of the AtlanticZ.CA pages.

Note: this is incorrect, if you're talking about 280Z's. 👽 The ZX's used a priming time at Run, but no 280Z's did. Seems like your hoses might be falling apart. You might check those. Could also be your pump check valve or FPR leaking down. The fact that you measured 10 and 5 is a sign. Usually they'll hold 20 or better even over a few days, even weeks. You can run your pump by removing the yellow solenoid wire and turning the key to Start.

The truth is out there. Trust no one. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Erlenmeyer_Flask https://www.nature.com/articles/3302635

It's Just an Odd Way to Write. A couple of Capitals for Emphasis is Normal but When You Sprinkle so Many in they Make Little Sense. It's Actually Harder to keep Hitting the Shift Button to write in This Weird Way. Which Makes it Even Weirder. Hence Queasy.

Used to be a person went to the rural less-populated areas to get healthy. Not so much these days. https://www.q13fox.com/news/indoor-events-bring-virus-outbreak-in-republic-washington Republic is pretty far out there.

Might need balancing. You're working in parallel with a similar project.

The weird capitalization makes me queasy. $1, no VIN, email your phone number...? Looks scammy, or at least a strange person to deal with. This 1972 Datsun 240Z was built in 6-72 and was Purchased New from San Jose Datsun in August 1972. I Purchased it in July 1973 from Walt Martin Datsun Richmond CA. This S30 is painted New Sight Orange (918) and had a re-paint in 1988. Original Numbers Matching Engine Rebuilt in 1999. Original 4 Speed Transmission. Rebuild along with additional work was completed by a Datsun Specialist Shop in Dublin California. (Receipts Available). 240Z Odometer shows 40,600 (140,600) with 1,600 Miles driven since the Rebuild. Original Spare Tire/Wheel and 4 Original Steel Wheels all date coded 6-72 along with 4 Wheel Covers. This 1972 240z has been used sparingly in recent years. Recent maintenance includes installing New (MSA) Seat Covers & Foam Inserts along with other repairs. Clear Title in Sellers Name In Hand, Current Registration, Original Blue and Yellow License Plates from 1972. Vehicle has been in California since purchased. Car is now located in San Luis Obispo County. Looking for Serious Buyers to Make Serious Offers. Email your phone number and I will return your call.

Throttle means to choke off, or cut supply. The engine will spin as fast as the air supply will let it. It's controlled by the throttle because the throttle controls the air supply. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/throttle

Actually it looks like it was sealing where it needed to seal. Which way are you installing the yokes? They should have the edges pointing toward the manifolds, with the nut riding on the top of the curve. You're making progress. Use this EFI book, it has all years through 1980 listed. 1975 was their first shot at publishing a guide so it might have errors.

I'm not sure where you're getting your specs. from. AFM Test #2 in the 1980 EFI book says ~150 ohms, not zero. And 60 ohms is the typical resistance of a relay solenoid so I think that those are probably right also. And, yes, leaking injector seals would be a big problem. Those are kind of hard to install wrong but it does happen. Lube them up well and maybe install each injector separately before installing the rail. It's tempting to try to do it with them all on the rail but it can cause problems, especially with the three piece 77 rail. Make sure that the injector securing pieces are not cracked and that the screws are giving good clamping force. Intake manifold torque values are in the FSM, probably in the engine Mechanical chapter, but I remember something like 11 ft-lbs. It's like one hand on a ratchet wrench tight. Here is AFM Test #2 on page 75 of the 1980 EFI book.

When you moved the AFM vane you were adding fuel. Seems like a vacuum leak somewhere, or the typical "lean AFM/electronics" problem. The "temp sensor tweak" is the cure for that. Not sure what's going on with your voltages. Are you sure there's not a decimal on the display? What kind of meter? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Blue 73 with red tow hooks. I wonder what happens if you pull on them. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-158/

Engine RPM is controlled by air flow. So high RPM means that you have uncontrolled air getting in somewhere. If it's idling at 3000 RPM and you already have extra gasoline then carb cleaner might not show you much. Engine running after ignition off is usually from hot spots in the combustion chamber. Often caused by carbon deposits from running rich. When you floor it before shutting down you let a blast of cool air and gasoline in and kill the hot spots. The throttle blades control air flow not gasoline. They need to shut completely if you want to control your idle speed.

Meter meter pumpkin eater. Where's your meter? Start probing and poking. That's why most meters have long leads, so you can reach way over there to get a reading. Take a reading, clean a connection, repeat. Each small decrease in resistance will help.

The fact that the engine started means you guessed right. Check the ground junction on the manifold, by the throttle body. There's an eyelet with a bunch of wires attached.

That usually works. These old cars lose their grounds though, just through rusting connection points. You can add wires to create better grounds, to battery and engine block. Looks like you should spend some time fixing your grounds. They are as important as power supply. Your running rich problem would be the water temp sensor. Next step is to check the sensor itself at the thermostat block.

Could be a pressure plate issue. The levers/fingers that the TOB sits on might be unbalanced, or stuck. The TOB should be centered on the pressure plate fingers by the nose of the front cover. Although if the TOB wasn't seated on the fork correctly it might be pressing sideways on the fingers, kocked. Interesting puzzle. Bummer though. The trans must come out.

Not sure TOB fits a knock. Does it knock once or continue knocking as the engine rotates? And does it disengage?

It's all about Youtube channels.

Many people install the high amp alternators to fix low current at idle RPM. It's overkill, in a way, but it seems to work. If that's the reason, the loads are the same. Normally, somebody would have asked "why?" at the start. What's the "upgrade"? Although, the parts store 60 amp remans are not known for their quality. I wonder if the ZCD 80 amp is really new.

That's a Wonderful story.

Here's a picture from a real car listing. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-65/

Here's a picture from a page from the 1970 FSM.

Quoting a couple of things that are "not good". I had a halfshaft was binding along the axis. I think it was one of the replacements that I mentioned earlier. It came from a 1978 parts car that had right rear damage, like it had been rear-ended. I took it apart, cleaned it up, looked for visible damage, and put it back together but it still was binding. Must have "brinelled" the ball path. I spent a lot of time cleaning up the mating surfaces for the flanges (the factory paint was peeling, leaving an uneven surface), shaving the burrs off the lock washers (Nissan lock washers are very well-made they dig a substantial burr when you loosen them. They hold tight.), and then making sure the centering rings were clean and free of dings before installation. There are a lot of small things that can add up. Nissan does recommend marking the propeller shaft before disassembly. Seems like a good shop would have variable thickness circlips to get a u-joint centered before balancing. Maybe a shop that builds drive shafts. Check the fit of the slip yoke in the transmission. Might be part of your problem.