Zed Head

Tut, tut, it's a difficult job. But you will be a mechanic when you're done.

Nobody wants to know what a "tut" is? I do.

They do it for drifting. It's just a cheap hack, just need a welder and some welding material. I wonder if anyone has tried JB Weld. That would be a great JB Weld ad.

Pop out the axles and check the quality of the surface that rides inside the bearing. They're hard to get out, take some tools to pry with. 39/10 is what you're looking for on the ring gear stamp.

I think that he already knows about the ratios and is planning to buy a 3.9 to match the 3.062 1st gear in the 5 speed. Trying to figure out how to evaluate the quality of the 3.9 diff. Here are some images of welded diffs. Some people just do a few solid welds, some people go crazy and fill every crevice. Here's a funny article about the "benefits" of welded diffs. Those open diffs are unpredictable!

How not is not? You're probably going to break some bolts and/or studs, on the exhaust manifold, maybe even a head bolt if the head's never been off. Injector hold-down screws break also. How many miles on the engine? How do you know you need a new head gasket? What is leaking? It's a job.

The 81 ZX Turbo sold for $32,250. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-datsun-280zx-turbo-6/

I found a reference to a 76 fuel tank that describes a fine mesh screen around the base of the canister that the pickup and return line are in. I thought that the 240Z inlet lines had a metal "sock" on the end of the line. Basically like a metal fishnet. Can't find any cut open 240Z pictures though. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96315-por-15-fuel-tank-repair-question/?do=findComment&comment=910896

You can use the AC Volts (Hz) measurement function on your meter if it has it to count coil discharges. Not typical alternating current but the meter doesn't know that. I'd guess that's what the automotive meters do, but with internal software to do the math and convert to RPM.

I think it might be the start of cool weather. Fall. People closing up the windows and staying inside. And, maybe, back to politics...political rallies. Overall, the only data I really trust anymore is the hospitalization data. Some states have poor testing programs and/or seem to be manipulating the death data. But the hospitalization data is really hard to manipulate. There's a body in the hospital. https://twitter.com/COVID19Tracking/status/1333203797179392003

Carry the bad one as a spare. You'll just have to drive home without a tach.

Didn't I already say that, essentially? It's in the comments about using the DMM to calibrate my tach and my simpleton remarks. Kind of buried. Actually, heyitsrama still has that damaged component to worry about. Whatever it is. Let's figure that one out. And, on the capacitor question, he showed a nice shiny blue electrolytic capacitor in one of his pictures. The side view.

I'm not positive on it. One of those things you have to check, even if you know the year. Lots happens over 40 some years. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm p.s. I don't think the advice about replacing an N47 head with a P79 head is good. Unless he changed pistons also.

The picture you posted is of round port headers. They should work well with your lined 77 N47 exhaust outlets, which would be considered "round". The square outline is from square holes in the gasket used. Edit - if you have an N47 head on your engine. That's the key. Can't remember exactly when the change was, it might have been internally oiled cam in 77 and lined heads in 78.

It would still be interesting to talk about how tachs work though. I learn gooder when there's a problem to solve.

Why would anyone not use it? Seems to meet the needs, and there are options. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,1979,rx-7,1.1l+r2,1192227,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 It's weird that there is no option for an electric pump around the internet even though the 240Z's are wired for it. It's a market that needs to be addressed. Opportunity missed. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

No, motorman7's post kind of caught me by surprise and I had to think about it for a while, and went through some edits. I see where he's coming from, he's been there since the beginning. Still shocks you though.

Actually, second edit, I can't even really see an attempt to "own" here. Seems like a total non sequitur. Oh well. I can kind of feel people getting lazy in my neighborhood, since we're in a county that's not suffering too badly. I guess the new term is "chin diaper", where people wear the face covering on their chin and only pop it up if they get close to someone. And can't seem to comprehend that just because you're drinking a coffee, it doesn't mean you can't get or transmit the virus. They're like school kids, finding ways to cheat the "rules". It's like some sort of self-correcting stupidity. Instead of continuing what works, stop and wait until things get bad again.

I'm kind of sensitized to that because my tach got all weird when I switched to a GM HEI module. My solution was a signal conditioner. Not a super fancy one like in the post I pasted but a simple condenser/capacitor on the coil negative wire. I don't know what causes the noise but the wire to the condenser wire broke once and the tach went bad again. I fixed it and it worked.

Never mind. Any response is an "own", to some perspectives.

If you live at 3,500 feet it probably changes with the weather. That would be annoying.

When I was looking at high pressure pump options I found that older Ford trucks used two pumps. One to pull from the tanks and one to pressurize the EFI system. The high pressure pump was mounted up under the driver's side firewall, and the supply pump was in the tank I think, or close to it. I don't know the specs on the supply pump but I'd assume it would be low pressure. Might be worth digging in to.

I found that these wobble head extensions, 1/2", get a good bite in the drain plug hole. It's a tough one. Once they get wallowed out it gets messy. This is the Harbor Freight version for an impact driver. No chrome helps it get a bite also. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-1-2-half-inch-drive-impact-wobble-socket-extension-set-67066.html

And a free throwout bearing and sleeve! Looks like a Z shifter, not a ZX. Is that yours? Hope they knew what they were doing, it's been worked on. I'd file some new flats on the fill plug, clean up the area around the threads and squirt some penetrant on there. Then hit it with a torch or heat gun before trying to remove it, and the drain plug. Do it while it's together, it's hard to generate leverage when the cases are off. Who paints their transmission red?

He's a car guy and a consultant and likes to share his knowledge. Might be worth an email. Maybe he'll have a solution. http://www.nonlintec.com/contact.html