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Found 7 results

  1. These came off a head with less than 100 miles. I don't know what they are worth hence have put them up on eBay. For those with worn adjusters on a factory turbo, there's always the option to convert to solid adjustors, but for someone who would prefer to keep the hydraulic self adjusters, here's a unique opportunity. These have been NLA for some time now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131272513446?item=131272513446 Daniel PS. It has been a while since I've spent time on this site so my apologies if this self-promotion of my eBay auction is inappropriate or in the wrong place.
  2. Ok, I haven't done a valve adjustment since I bought the car which was roughly 9 months ago. I purchased it from someone who had been working on it and it was in pretty good shape. Today I go to adjust the valves and when I lift the valve cover, I notice the Pivot lock nuts are much bigger than any manual said they should be. I haven't been able to find an L28et that looks similar to mine with the cover off. Maybe I'm not looking at it right but I thought I would ask before I started loosening the nuts. Also there aren't two nuts like the manual says, just that one lock nut. I also tried to get the feeler gauges through just to see If there was any clearance. and I couldn't get even the 0.0015" feeler through with the cam lobe pointing straight up. Is there something I'm missing? (another note: The lock nut on there is bigger than 22mm, which was the biggest wrench I had on hand)
  3. I don't really know where to start, so please bare with me. About three months ago, I sent my carburetors off to Ztherapy to re manufacture them because the rear three cylinders quit firing, and my float bowl was overflowing. I finally got them back (2 months later), installed them, did all the necessary tuning that I could without the car running (including float level), and it will only fire up if I've got both carbs fully choked. It'll run at high rpms until I unchoke it, and then it just sputters out. Turns out, (from the front) the 4th, 5th, and 6th cylinders are for sure not firing, and I think the 1st isn't because its exhaust channel on the exhaust header is the same temp as 4, 5, and 6. When I pull 4, 5, and 6 spark plugs, the tips are drenched in oil, but they're still sparking. Could it be that my cylinders are full of oil, and it's not sparking? I adjusted the timing, distributor gap, and valve clearance properly about 800 miles before I had to send off the carbs, so I don't think it's any of those. I just don't get why those cylinders aren't firing. Please feel free to bombard me with questions and help me figure this out!
  4. now before yall say anything, i'll tell you that i didn't think to search the forums for reviews of this guy before i bought from him. hindsight is 20/20, but i may not be screwed yet. the head just got here today. it's an N42, and by sight, it looks really good. there are one or two chinks here and there; one on the edge of a lobe, another on the edge of one of the exhaust ports. but overall, it looks good. it's got the double springs. my question is this: who has bought a head from this guy, and if you had problems with it, what were they? i'm going to have it checked out by the shop i go to, and i'd like to have something to tell them to look for.
  5. I did a compression test on my recently rebuilt 260z engine. It has about 1500 miles on it. On the dry test with the carb fully open and the coil wire off I get the following results # 1 thru #5 came in at about 72 lbs but the # 6 came it at around 90lbs On the wet test all came in at 90 lbs including the # 6. I am rather new to this and this is the first time I have done a compression test, so my questions are- why would the # 6 not change from a dry to wet test. The warranty expires next week on this engine and I wanted to do this test prior to the warranty expiring.Is this something to be concerned about? Thnaks zdude1967
  6. The other day I had my 260 out and the pedal got stuck under the floor mat. In any case it revved pretty high before I could release it. Now I have a loud valve tap and the # 5 cylinder seems to have lost compression. I did not do a compression test but rather a simple finger over the spark plug hole. Could I have bent a valve? It over revved for maybe 20 to 30 seconds. Can these Z engines typically have piston to valve contact. The head was rebuilt 500 miles ago, timing chain etc all new. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated Thanks Glenn
  7. Hi, I just had my 260 engine rebuilt. It is running like s**T. I did a poor mans compression test (finger over the spark plugs while cranking engine) and the # 5 seemed to have no compression. In any case the engine is under warranty and the company that rebuilt it seems to be rather clueless. I say this because they want to check the carbs as they think this may be the issue. Now I do not claim to be Mr. Goodwrench but my understanding of this engine leeds me to believe that if there is no compression or very weak compression it would either be the valves or the rings. Would someone please let me know if there could be other reasons besides the rings or valves or if I am clueless with my ring/valve theory. By the way they claimed they checked the valves and that they are fine which is why they are moving to the carbs. Thanks Glenn
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