LeonV

If it's a plug meant for the L (e.g. NGK projected-tip plug), you'll be fine. With a compression ratio close to or at 10:1, you better be running pump gas, and even then there is a chance of detonation depending on timing. We can't tell you whether or not you'll get detonation without being there, nor can we tell you where to set initial timing without knowing what distributor you're using. A stock-headed L28 tends to make most use of the mixture with around 34-36 degrees of total timing, as demonstrated in dyno testing. The total timing depends on your initial timing plus the maximum centrifugal advance of your distributor. At your compression ratio, you may or may not need to back off on timing. There have been people that needed to go to 28BTDC to ward off knock, and there have been others that had no problems at 34BTDC, all with flat-tops and N42 head. FWIW, upping the compression ratio alone doesn't produce much of a change in torque, maybe a 1-2% gain, which likely won't be noticeable. Compression ratio is usually increased in order to keep cylinder pressures up when using a more aggressive cam. Without swapping cams (and matching intake/exhaust manifolds), the gain from a bump in compression is minimal.

If you look under the hood when it's dark, do you see arcing between plug wires that are close together? Some ignition system checking and maintenance will be necessary to determine the cause, not guessing.

It is straightforward: 1-2-3-4-5-6 from front of the engine, 1-5-3-6-2-4 counter-clockwise on distributor. I had a similar issue after adjusting my valves. Check your plug wires at the plugs (and distributor), they may be loose. I had to slightly crimp one of my plug wire ends so that it would "click" into the plug again. Also, be sure to check the coil-distributor wire. Also make sure that your distributor cap is seated correctly.

Great write-up! I plan to do this as funds allow on my early 260Z with triple Webers, and this should save me some time. Thanks!

If you want quiet and low drone, I would put a resonator in the transmission tunnel and something other than a straight-through muffler in the back. A chambered muffler would probably be your quietest choice, depending on construction of the chambers of course. Take a look on youtube for clips, many of them have a description of muffler used.

Excellent data, Phred! Philip, are you keeping in mind the differences between brake and wheel horsepower? Stupid question, just making sure.

Julio, This definitely sounds like something that can be repaired with paintless techniques. Vote #2 for paintless dent removal. I know I'd be very upset, especially with a Z as nice as yours, but luckily you should be able to get it removed without much fuss and financial outlay. Leon

BSFC would be at its minimum at max torque, not maximum. For those unfamiliar, think of it as the inverse of engine efficiency (proportional to torque), which is maximum at peak torque. As far as a good number, let me get back to you tomorrow, Blue, and I'll try to come up with something.

Wink-wink, nudge-nudge...

What??? I'm guessing you didn't search... It's not the seatbelt interlock. Seriously, all this takes is some research. I highly recommend following-up on my first post in this thread. Get the FSM from xenons30.com, it has a very good wiring diagram which I have used to solve many problems in my 260Z.

Welcome, Bob! Unfortunately I missed the Historics this year but I hope to see your Z in action sometime!

The alternator/VR are okay if you measure about 14.5V at 2500rpm or so. Sounds like a bad connection(s) somewhere. Check continuity at the fuses (not just visual inspection!) in the fuse box first to rule that out. Otherwise, trace wires and clean up connections. I always like to study the wiring diagram before getting to work and reference it while dealing with electrical issues. While slightly more complicated than the 240Z, the 260Z's electrical system is still relatively simple once you've studied it.

Search... This has been discussed, analyzed and solved many times. It seems to be most common in the 260Z. Use google and put in something like "260z starter" or "starter relay", etc.

Hook up a timing light to see if you lose spark or if it becomes sporadic. Does the car still run if you pull the choke off after, say, 30 seconds of running? Can you restart right after it stalls? As a quick check, when this happens, spray the coil with freeze spray (or something similar) to quickly cool the component. If there is no effect, do the same for the ignition module. The point is if there is a heat-related failure with one of these components, this will diagnose it.

I used the push method as well. Left the plugs in so I could feel the next compression stroke, worked great!

Looks like the power valve?

I second that! My external regulator is working fine. I thought I remembered reading/seeing that the internally regulated units don't excite the ammeter, but I'll concede to those that have actual experience with this.

That is the correct answer, and what I was going mention as well.

For the temp gauge, pull off the connector to the thermal transmitter and clean off the corrosion. Mine worked intermittently until I cleaned off the male connector coming off the thermostat.

Made a better video! After Engine: L24/E88, Triple 40DCOE Webers, stock cam Exhaust system components: Nissan Motorsports header to two separate 2" pipes Muffler: Two 18" glasspacks in transmission tunnel and two 12" glasspacks at the end, all reversed.

I'm with Steve, first thing I'd check is the coupling (18 in drawing) as that is what actually mates the distributor shaft to the spindle.

Buy a charger, I think I got my Sears plug-in charger for $50 or so. It has modes for starting, and different rates of charging, including a deep-cycle. You can probably get them cheaper but my unit has been very useful.

I see Pantera!

Not without modification. You can put in the header but it's not necessary for your application, and probably more work than it's worth to you. Have an exhaust built using 2.5" pipe which will give you the performance bump, and then the sound can be tamed depending on muffler choice. Of course, if you want a quiet exhaust, you're going to have to accept a hit in performance. My twice pipes are a bit on the loud side, but they didn't make me deaf on a 2 hour road trip (like the previous exhaust would).

You find conflicting information because even with the same specications, tire sizes differ between manufacturers. Before I switched to Panasports (225/50-16), I had the same slotted mags with the same tire size as you, 225/60-14. Tires are Yokohamas and there were no fit problems when I was running them. Look up your tires on tirerack and it will tell you the true dimensions.