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About philbar73

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 19398

  • Title: Registered User

  • Content Count: 126

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  • Joined: 11/19/2009

  • Been With Us For: 4443 Days

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    long island NY

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  1. The best thing that happen when I switched to the RX7 pump is: the Webers would drip gas after the car was turned off with all the other pumps I tried. That has been greatly reduced with the RX7 pump. With other pumps the fuel pressure would stay up when the car was turned off. When the power goes off on the RX7 pump the fuel pressure falls immediately. Haven't had any problems with fuel supply, but I don't race, just around town use. I have pushed it a little with no problems. No regulator, pressure is good enough. On the other pumps, maybe if the return line was use so the pressure could bleed off it would have the same result but I'm not using the return line at all.
  2. I did a few searches and found :speedometer bounce" could be the cable or the gear. I think its the cable. I had cleaned it out and lubed it with cable lube when I was putting it back together. Cable lube is very thin. The car sat for 25 or so years before I put it back on the road. The bounce post said to use heavy gear oil. I'll give it a try and report back.
  3. At low speed my speedometer jumps. I think its the speedometer cable. Any thoughts?
  4. It could be a bad ignition switch. My car was off the road for 24 years. When I put it back on the road the starter would turn in the accessory position. I replace the ignition switch and all was good.
  5. I think there should be a spacer between the fan and water pump. I'm not positive but that would give you a little more clearance if I'm correct. I've worked on a lot of cars so I could be mistaken. You may already have a spacer there.
  6. What do you have to do? I'm on Long island,
  7. I think you need less teeth so it will turn faster
  8. One of my windows was doing the same thing. I put a few washers under the regulator when I mounted it and the problem went away. The broken plastic washers didn't cause a problem in the operation of the window. I had to play around with the location and number of washers but it made it work.
  9. The output (speaker leads) measure .9 ohms. The only thing I can think of is I'm testing a winding on a transformer. If it was a capacitor I would think that I would see the reading changing. It solid at .9 ohms in either direction. The white and black lead is tied to ground, the case of the radio. When I connect the radio to the amp there is no output. If I lift the ground wire and just connect the white lead from the radio it works. I'm an electrical engineer and would like to understand what I'm dealing with. The power amp has a speaker level input but it seams the - input on the power amp will not work when grounded. I put a small audio transformer between the radio and the power amp to isolate the ground and it acts the same. I don't understand what's going on.
  10. The radio works fine. I want to look at the output stage before I hook it up to a power amp so I don't damage it. I think its transform isolated but do not want to make a mistake.
  11. I'm looking for the Schematic for a Hitachi KM-1520ZD radio. Can anyone help?
  12. Now that I have driven the car a few times, I still have a little bit of gas dripping. It is greatly improved.
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