LeonV

Retarded timing and/or a RICH mixture will both raise exhaust gas temperatures. With timing advanced enough to reach MBT (Max Brake Torque), you will be generating more heat in the cylinder since you will be generating the highest peak cylinder pressures. I think everything you see is normal. I'd change the water pump if you don't have any history on it, same goes for the thermostat. You are robbing some power and fuel efficiency by retarding timing, although you're probably only a few degrees off. Aim for about 33-36 degrees at 3000rpm, depending on what piston/head combo you have. Also sounds like your SUs are dead. They will not function properly with a throttle shaft leak.

Newer Webers (151) have idle mix screws with a finer thread pitch. One turn out on the old carb means more like 2 turns out on the new ones. FYI... So being 2.5 turns out on the new ones is comparable to 1.25 turns on the old ones.

First gear definitely has a syncronizer on this transmission. Make sure the clutch is properly adjusted first, before jumping to any other conclusions. Can't wait for the video especially after it's broken in!

I don't associate Flowmaster with performance. Borla is nice, their XR-1 is a great performance muffler.

I use relatively fine steel wool or a razor blade, depending on what the situation calls for.

Steve's asking some good questions...

CF pedals??? That's definitely not a Z anymore. That just pushes it over the line for me. LOL

A compression test can tell you many things, not just "max (cylinder) pressure". In fact, it's a poor way of determining max cylinder pressure as it's more for comparative purposes than absolute measurements. It will diagnose a blown head gasket and/or leaky valves quickly and easily. A leak-down test will narrow the results further. Both should be done, especially if compression results are unhealthy. With that said, I'd probably pull the valve cover before doing anything else. Overly high engine speeds can cause rockers to fly out of place.

I did the same with my Cannon manifold, in terms of rod ends. However, one of my rod ends was bent for whatever reason so I'm unsure whether it's an alignment issue or rod-end issue at this point. It would be great to run a hardened steel rod, but I'd have to cut and weld the U-bracket through which the Z throttle rod fits into. Correct, the 260Z rod fit perfectly with the Cannon manifold.

In that case, I'll put Daihatsu emblems all over my Z. The ultimate sleeper.

An exhaust leak at the stud has nothing to do with lifting the engine from it.

I do! Brand new and unused. I keep thinking I'll install them, but it hasn't happened...

I'm with John, although I'll go with the VIN stamped into the body as the ultimate say. And I'll also second everything Alan has contributed. Everything else is as fluffy as a 9th grader's English paper.

The rear manifold stud is the manufacturer-deemed rear lifting point. I don't understand why there should be any hesitation to use it.

A caliper, pen, paper and 10 minutes should do it.

EXACTLY! Triples have dedicated runners to each cylinder. This is an inherent advantage over SUs because of better mixture distribution between cylinders and a stronger signal for resonance (harmonic) intake tuning. There are also less pumping losses because of the fixed venturi design, so there are performance benefits to Webers outside of WOT operation. Correctly tuned, they will get better fuel mileage as well.

The combustion forces on the head are magnitudes greater than the static weight of the engine. Each head bolt can literally support tons, let along a few hundred pounds.

Look under your car and it will be clear.

Properly tuned, triples will always make more power than SUs. It has been done, thousands of times. If you're looking for dyno results, search hybridz.org.

It's easy if it already has a US title. If not, it will be a little tougher. Did you import the car yourself or buy it from a US owner?

Glenn made a good list. On a car that's been sitting that long, assume all rubber is dried out. This means hoses, bushings, and hydraulic seals (brake & clutch master, clutch slave, wheel cylinders, calipers) need to be replaced/rebuilt.

The alternator pully does the tensioning. There is no dedicated belt tensioner on the L-series.

I concede!

You should see my refrigerator...

Nice write-up, Wade!