LeonV

Nice find Jim! I have one on my Z, it came with it. It's cracked in the center and chipped on the side. I've been curious if I'd ever run into one. Wish I were in Canada, I imagine shipping would be a killer.

Unless Stance-USA struts have managed to defy the laws of physics, everything I've said is true. Here's how it actually works, with some math to prove it: Assume a corner weight of 600lb. Old springs were 224lb/in (4k), new springs are 168 lb/in (3k). 600/224 = 2.7 inches of spring compression 600/168 = 3.6 inches of spring compression Therefore, the car will sit about an inch lower (accounting for motion ratio) AND the damper rod will lose 0.9" of jounce travel due to the spring compressing more. There are two solutions to getting ride height back. The first is to simply thread the damper body up by an inch. This works to get ride height back but you're still missing 0.9" of bump travel. Assuming damper travel was set correctly in the first place, you'll want that jounce travel back. Therefore, I suggest getting your travel back to where it was by preloading the spring by 0.9" (using a spring compressor makes this easy). This accomplishes both getting your ride height AND damper travel back. I've never corner balanced a car that has separate height and preload adjustments with spring preload. That's best done via damper body adjustment because preload changes where the damper sits at nominal height, as you can see from this exercise. In summary, preload adjustment sets damper position and damper body adjustment takes care of ride height and corner balance. It doesn't matter whether the metal bits were supplied by Stance, or BC, or Ohlins. It all works the same, according to the laws of physics. Removing from the bottom is not difficult and probably faster and easier than through the top, a friend of mine did it this way to not mess with the top nut and assorted hardware.

Yes, swapping springs that way is the easiest way to do it. You may have to disconnect your ARB endlinks. The new spring is an inch longer so the perch will indeed be an inch lower but, assuming 600lb corner weight, the car will drop approximately by another inch. Therefore, the damper body will need to move up to maintain ride height. Another effect of the softer spring is that you will be taking away an inch of bump travel. This may or may not be ok, depending on where your damper is currently. This can be adjusted via spring preload, e.g. one inch of spring preload will raise the car an inch and gain one inch of bump travel (assuming you haven't run out of travel).

All 260Zs got the updated steering rack and need the 280Z bushes, I had to do so on my old 9/73 260Z. Late 260Zs were manufactured from 9/74-12/74, the switchover to the 280Z occurred sometime in 12/74.

I've never held any 280Z struts but looks like you got your answer. My early 260Z struts were the same diameter as the 240Z.

Your assumptions are correct:

Agreed with the above.

Unless your Z has 5-lug hubs, no.

It's likely to do with wanting the car to sit level visually, given unequal corner weights. When people see cars sitting wonky, they may think something's wrong...

Is your companion flange bent or have some sort of damage that causes physical rubbing on the housing? I had a similar issue but with the stub axle itself.

3" is not too big and you won't lose anything by doing so. I never did do a single vs dual comparison though. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81941-exhaust-tube-sizing-i-did-your-arithmetic-for-you/

You can list it for $500 and see how it goes. I'd be pleasantly surprised if you get more than $300 for it.

No idea. Why not just post it for sale?

I've seen them up on ebay for a few hundred bucks.

I'll be there with some friends at one of the days, haven't decided yet. Glenn is a member here, he goes by spitz17.

Not sure I recall but I can deduce from context. No problem ?

Those are just 2.5" springs with universal 2" collars and DP Racing camber plates. You can save a few bucks sourcing the parts separately. You will have to modify your strut housings, there are lots of threads on HybridZ about strut sectioning and building your own coilovers. I have the same camber plates. They're great if you don't want to cut up your strut towers but they limit adjustability to just the 4 settings (plus a few more if you get creative).

That's a good question. If you can gain access to the damper shaft, put a zip tie on it and see how high it goes. A spirited drive should definitely not bottom-out the suspension. that's not the design case for max suspension travel. Instead, find a road(s) in your area that has potholes, expansion joints, dips, etc. to test travel on.

Not recommended, your springs will need to be stiffer to make up for the lost travel and avoid harsh bottoming-out of the suspension. Sounds like a lot of work for little gain, just buy some lowering springs or shorter top mounts as mentioned.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_fairlady-z_s30-l28-09-1975-07-1978/model/nissan_fairlady-z/car/nissan/brands/kameari/category/cylinder-head-and-valvetrain_valves I'm sure you can also contact an L-series engine specialist to get what you need...

The 123 has its own built-in ignitor, you can leave the transistor unit unplugged in the car but it will be redundant. Do not wire your distributor through your OE transistor unit, that won't work. You need a coil with a primary resistance >1ohm. You're measuring secondary resistance. The stock tach will work fine as it's triggered off of the coil (-), not the transistor unit. The 123 unit is simple to install. Just wire it in per their diagram and use the proper coil. That's it.

I don't know why Nissan or Bob Sharp did what they did. I'd be very interested to hear about their design process. Pete Brock was in town this past weekend but unfortunately I was away...

Poor phrasing on my part. There's no other reason *besides packaging* and/or sound to split the pipes. Here's an in-depth thread on exhaust design: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81941-exhaust-tube-sizing-i-did-your-arithmetic-for-you/

There certainly is a "better" if we can agree that better means more torque. Joining all the cylinders increases the scavenging effect (dropping pressure at the exhaust port of the next cylinder), thus increasing volumetric efficiency which is directly proportional to torque. The effect is tuned with some thought behind pipe lengths, collector locations, etc. The physics remain the same, whether you have 6 individual pipes or just one. Sound, look, personal taste, that's all subjective and a perfectly good reason to choose what you like.