LeonV

Same thing happened when I was helping a buddy bleed his Z. He ended up getting a regular tee to replace the prop valve and installing a Wilwood adjustable in the engine bay.

The 280Z's redline is lower because of increased stroke. It has very little to do with R/S ratio.

They're allowing me to drive the car! Just living with the leaks until I get them welded up. They're not quite as loud as my old twice pipes (good thing). BTW, I love your flywheel holding tool.

With such a small, compact chamber you may not need a whole lot more timing. Mapping out the ignition system and leaning the fuel out a bit will make for substantial gains, not that it's not already a strong engine.

Good work G, looks like you're attacking that clutch job head-on!

I have a set of 225/50R16 tires on 16X7 Panasports on both of my Zs. I think one set is +6 offset and one is 0 offset, but I got both sets secondhand. After mocking up both sets on one car, I think the tires make a bigger difference than the slight offset (although that helps). The RE-11As on the green car are quite a bit "bulgier" than the Turanzas on the orange car. The facts... - Orange car is on +6 offset with very old 225/50R16 Bridgestone Turanza rubber. - Green car is on +0 offset with 225/50R16 Bridgestone RE-11A rubber. - Green car has +0 deg of rear camber, orange car has -1.5 deg. - Green car has trimmed rear arch lips and front valence - Orange car has aftermarket air dam - Zero rubbing on either setup - Switch sets between the two and fatter rears will rub on orange car

Lean out the mixture a bit to 13:1 and you'll make even more.

Sure thing. If you can't find it, I wouldn't hesitate to cut out a PE, PU, or Buna-N rubber disk and stick it in there. Just remember to glue it in place and adjust the master cylinder push-rod to spec.

For example: McMaster-Carr

Very nice job! Just needs to be dropped a bit, proper wheels, and you're good to go. Love the green over butterscotch.

Here you go: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/17972-reaction-disk-lost-booster.html As a precaution, I glued the disk onto the piston in the booster once I'd fished it out. As far as hardness, I'm sure you can substitute polyurethane or polyethylene and be fine. You can find some round plastic stock (and probably rubber for that matter) on mcmaster.com and cut it out if you can't find the disk in your booster.

I was convinced mine was lost too as no kind of shaking produced a rattle inside. Luckily enough, I was able to reach in with a finger, dislodge it from the inside of the housing, and finally shake it out. In other words, the disk was stuck to the inside of the booster housing and shaking didn't get it loose until I manually loosened.

I'm waiting for the day when I decide to convert to ITBs...

Removing the booster is not difficult. Be sure to adjust your master cylinder rod to correct depth once you have the disk back on. Adjustment procedure is in the FSM.

Mine came out when I removed the booster and shook it vigorously. I think I may have reached in and dislodged it with a finger first.

Looking good!

Holy hell man, I didn't realize that was YOUR 911! Still have the blue one?

Going Megajolt/EDIS bypasses any possible slop in the distributor/crank gear as well as distributor bushing wear. Since EDIS6 has 3 coil packs instead of one, each coil can have 3x longer dwell time and maintain spark at higher rpm. I already have a Z running Megajolt and another one running a ZX dizzy. I'm elated that this option has presented itself, as I wanted to keep the other Z a bit more period-looking! Now I can have the look of a distributor along with a fully and easily customized timing map, just waiting for that pesky budget to build itself up... If there's one thing I would want, it would be for the 123Tune interface to be the more typical 3D spark map instead of virtual centrifugal and vacuum advance curves. Splitting up the curves like that in a digital, programmable distributor doesn't make much sense to me.

The point has flown completely above your head. Sure, a stock distributor should work just fine on a completely stock engine, given it's in good order which many of these aging Nissan distributors are not. Add in triple carbs, a header, mixing-and-matching heads and blocks, and the stock distributor just don't cut it. I plan on getting one of these the minute my budget allows. This is one step below a crank-triggered ignition and is great for those wanting to keep a period correct look, but have brand-new AND discretely tunable ignition. Thanks for the feedback Mike!

Excellent, thanks!

Great choice. Make sure to hit the track, it'll be a blast. We're developing a turbo kit for the FRS/BRZ should you ever crave more...

Any idea on compatibility with other cars, especially those running L-Jetronic?

Bridgestone RE-11A is a good value but I don't have a lot of miles on them yet (225/50-16 on 16X7 Panasports). I LOVE the bang-for-the-buck of the Sumitomo HTRZIII (on my S2000) but don't know if they have them in your size. R-S3, Direzza ZII, or BFG Rivals would also all be nice, solid choices.

Nice find!

Try it out and see how it goes. I'm sure ganging up 3 runners together would do the trick if the signal from one is too messy. You can also try to dampen out noise if you'd like to stay with using one runner. When properly set up, vacuum advance is always a good thing.