LeonV

Welcome Tom! Too bad about the shipping damage, but at least your car wasn't on this ship:

A local exhaust shop did my entire 2" twin pipe system, including parts and materials, for $300. I shopped around about 6 different shops and not only was this guy cheaper (one man show), but also more experienced. You just have to find the right shop, but it's probably a bit tougher to do so in Finland...

Good stuff. The only favor we ask in return are pictures and a video when you're done.

There you go! Installing stiffer throttle return springs would be a good idea and now would be an easy time to swap them. There's a thread about them with a part number on this site. EDIT: here's the link - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetor-systems-s30/48969-weber-internal-spring.html

Check your throttle return springs, they may not be there or are disconnected.

Zs look great, but it's really cool to see a Renault 5 Turbo in there!

Bit loud but simply awesome!

FWIW, the door bar got sturdier starting in '73. Frames were bulked up as the years went by as well.

Nissan began production of 260Zs in 8/73, so that's correct. I've ordered countless parts from Rockauto, more than from anywhere else. I've never had an issue when having to return something either. This mistake lies on both parties, you for not knowing the mid-year rotor change and them for not specifying dimensions or that there was a mid-year change, so the partial-refund seems warranted to me.

FWIW, that shouldn't be a "wire around a nut" but an insulated ring terminal that seats under the nut...

D'oh! I meant "hose" not "wire"...

Wow, great buy! You're lucky to have such an original car. I wouldn't change a thing (besides those awful wire wheels ).

Really? Is $13 too much for you to swallow for a Factory Service Manual specific to your car? Also, I don't understand how posting on a Z-specific forum about wiring in a Pontiac Trans-Am makes any sense, even though Steve managed to direct you to exactly what you need...

FWIW, the 3-4 jump is substantial with the 4-speed/3.36 when compared to Euro/JDM market Zs. The other ratios aren't as different, but a little lower on the 5-speed cars. Maybe not a huge difference on paper, but definitely noticeable when driving back-to-back.

Looking good! What size are your front tires, and do they rub the valence?

The plug in the air cleaner is probably there because the air pump has been removed. It's the air pump intake. The wire with the screw in it should be connected to the vacuum advance module on the distributor. Right now, it seems like the vac advance is connected to manifold vacuum (wrong) although I can't see where the other end of the hose is. Regardless, it's clearly incorrect. You'll have to re-tune your idle RPM once the hose is properly connected.

You're not gaining anything noticeable by removing emissions equipment. I don't get the logic of polluting way more just to get maybe 2-3hp, that is if your emissions equipment works. If you want peppier acceleration, install a 5-speed and at least 3.9 rear diff. A lightweight flywheel also helps and could be installed in conjunction with the transmission. No extra power is needed, torque multiplication and reduction of reciprocating weight does a better job of increasing acceleration than trying to squeeze out enough power to do the same. FWIW, USA-bound 240Zs got rather sluggish transmission and rear diff ratios. The 3.36 rear with a wide-ratio 4-speed is not a great complement to the engine. Europe and Japan were better off with standard lower-geared diffs and 5-speeds.

Do you have any corroborating data or calculations to even remotely prove this, or is the statement pure conjecture?

I love it! I'm a huge hatchback/wagon fan. Wouldn't mind an Audi S4 Avant (B6/B7) as a DD if it weren't for it's reliability issues and less than favorable fuel efficiency... Very cool project.

Saw a very nice dark red 240Z with color-matched flares, rear spoiler, and possibly Watanabes on 19th Ave this morning. Nice Z!

Great job Jeff!

Most likely not. Do a compression test, that will tell you way more about the state of the head gasket and engine than a rusty cam. Adjust the valves first. I hope you've changed the oil. See my above post. If you want to use water, use it only temporarily and ONLY distilled water (i.e. not from the hose in your yard). Antifreeze has anti-corrosive properties and also helps lubricate the water pump. Measure it. Why is this info needed? Come to JCCS in September, I'll be there.

Kammy's World Famous Valve Adjustment

Dead voltage regulator or alternator... FSM has test procedures, BTW.