LeonV

With a gasket in between... Also, "regular" antifreeze performs the same function, regarding corrosion. Waterless Coolant isn't anything magic, it's just a brand name.

Besides the bigger valves, it looks like it might be ported. Are you sure the installed cam is stock?

Same happened to me with the energy kit. I found proper sized bolts at my local hardware store.

I've heard that once or ten times before! If they're Eibachs, look at the part numbers on the springs. The ones ending in .001 go in front and .002 in back.

I'd check compression and then move to ignition. Sounds like you're having spark problems.

Did you check your bleed pipes to see if the solder job is holding up?

Compression ratio by itself doesn't boost power all that much. Proper spark timing is much more important.

What I'm saying is that you'll get a very similar, if not indiscernible from the original, sound if you just go to an exhaust shop and tell them to do two 2" pipes with 2 glasspacks in each pipe.

My 260Z sounded similar with a header and 2" twice pipes. Sounds quality isn't great but you get the gist...

Water is almost 2X more effective at heat transfer than antifreeze (ethylene glycol). The main point of using antifreeze is for dropping the freezing point, increasing boiling point, as well as lubricating the water pump and protecting the insides of the engine from corrosion. "Water Wetter" does the same thing.

Did you make sure to torque any fasteners at pivot points with the car loaded and on the ground?

I was going to say the same. I'd switch them...

Looks like it's in great shape! BTW, that's a '73 model year judging by the equipment.

That should be fine, as long as the head hasn't been shaved.

Bart is right, the manual refers to RON which is the octane standard the US used back then (and the rest of the world still uses today). The US now uses RON+MON/2 (AKI) which is a lower number for the same octane level, i.e. 95RON is equivalent to 91AKI, as Bart already pointed out.

Wow, fantastic job! I love the thoroughness and attention to detail.

Check the reaction disk while you're in there, especially considering the brake booster was replaced.

Looks like an awesome trip! It's great to see the Z out and about in Europe-land.

Cool car! Your camshaft, however, is toast and needs to be replaced before doing anything else...

RLS30-24368 is a 2/74 build date.

Thanks! Date of manufacture is stamped on the plate riveted to the driver's side door sill.

Well that's a blast from the past! She's still sitting on that same suspension...

Better build a time machine first...

Welcome! Nice Zs, the Fairlady looks like a fun project.

Same thing happened when I was helping a buddy bleed his Z. He ended up getting a regular tee to replace the prop valve and installing a Wilwood adjustable in the engine bay.