LeonV

Here's a demo of the aforementioned tool. The first time I saw one of these things in use, my jaw dropped. Like I said, it works best with the head on the car, using compressed air to keep the valves closed.

While I haven't personally used it, I've seen our techs use this style of tool. These things are amazing, you'll never get a valve spring off faster. It's especially good for on-car jobs. I've talked to them before about which one they like more but I don't recall right now and won't be at the shop for another week as I'm on vacation. The only negative I know of is that it'll likely mar your valve retainers.

I'm using the Ford stem seals and Isky retainers with a .540" lift cam without issue.

The shunt is a 260Z-only part as far as I'm aware, although the carpartsmanual link says that it came on the early '75 280Z as well. Nonetheless, your mystery part doesn't look like a 260Z shunt.

Nicely done!

Thanks Mike. Brian got in touch, very quickly actually! We just might be able to set something up but we'll see how things go. Thanks for your help, Mike!

Thanks! Good call Chas, I just sent Brian a PM. Thanks Cap!

All pleasure! Sort of a first anniversary trip for me and the wife. Auckland's been great so far, we've had some great meals and nice walks around town. Thanks Mike, I probably should've done as you did and posted here sooner. I appreciate the contact info, we'll see if we can hook up with some Zed-fanatics. In fact, this caught my eye as we strolled through Parnell:

Holy hell. I would absolutely not take a chance on reusing those rockers, that may eventually lead your cam to fail.

Where all the Zeders at? We're in Auckland until the 26th when we travel up North to Tutukaka. We'll stay there until the 1st of December and then make our way south to Rotorua. I'd love to see some Zeds while we're here!

I don't. Valve clearances change rapidly during the break in period, as the valve and seat break in to each other. It's common to do many valve adjustments during the first ~1000 miles of a new engine,

The higher the elevation, the less dense the air, and the more compression you can get away with for a given octane rating. FWIW...

I've done it and it wasn't easy. I ended up drilling out a couple of fittings to get the job done but it worked out in the end. Soak the fittings in good rust penetrant and use flare wrenches so you don't round them off. You may get lucky and have them all pop loose.

What a deal! Those seats look very interesting, any info on them?

It sure could have been.

Check your brake booster.

Nice, wheels look just like the ones I had on my first 240Z, Shelby 5-slots painted black with polished lip.

Many modern air bags have a 2-stage deployment, based on seat position.

Every dyno result you see is likely from a chassis dyno (to the wheels), unless it was on an engine dyno (e.g. Rebello). It's also completely useless to compare numbers from different dynos. Extrapolating "crank" numbers from chassis dynos is equally useless. I've seen as much as 50-60hp swings from the same car, with absolutely no changes made besides it being on a different dyno. A good example is an FC RX7 that came through our shop and pulled 125whp. At another dyno, it hit 175hp. That's a 40% difference!

Dual Weber DGV carbs are inferior to the original SUs. Now DCOEs (what Ermish is likely familiar with) are a different story. If I were you, I'd track down a set of round top SUs, or triple Weber DCOEs if you're feeling adventurous. *Shameless plug* FWIW, I'm the EFI/Carb tuner at WORKS Motorsports in Sonoma. If you're nearby, you can consider bringing the Z here for any work you need. I've been playing with Zs for over 7 years.

Sounds like a vacuum leak/tuning issue.

Martin never implied the rod on the left would have a shorter throw, where did you deduce that from? I think you initially confused the issue when saying that the shifter on the right will have a "longer throw".

I highly recommend going to a lightweight flywheel while you're in there. The Fidanza is a nice unit, well worth the price IMO. I'm using a 10lb Fidanza and OEM-replacement clutch behind my L28 (0.020" over with flat-tops, shaved P90 @ 10:1 comp, healthy cam, triple 45s, etc). The break-in period went well, we'll see if the clutch holds up when I actually tune the thing. The lightweight flywheel reduces rotational inertia and makes for smoother, less slippy shifts. I know Matt (Lazeum on HBZ) is running a stock clutch behind his hot L28 as well and it seems to be holding up. If it's not necessary, then what's the point of buying a pricey "performance" clutch? That's the question I asked myself. I was interested in finding out how well an OEM clutch would hold up to a setup like this. I used Exedy BTW, they are a common OEM for many Japanese cars.

Martin is correct, the rod on the right will have shorter throws. The shift rod movement required to engage a gear is a constant. The longer arm will move the shift rod more per degree, thus the shorter throws. This is how short-throw shifters typically work...

Yes, that's the gland nut P/N. AJUSA was able to source them for me and were awesome to deal with. Another HBZ member recently bought the same stuff and they were able to get it all for him. Hurry, the inserts may still be on sale @ $132/ea! I have not installed them yet and have heard that you may need to slightly shave down the threaded portion of the gland nut in some cases. If you don't plan to lower your car much, you can use the stock housings. All you need to do is take the appropriate measurements and cut a 1.5" OD pipe to use as a spacer, such as what Tokico does for their rear inserts.