LeonV

It sure could have been.

Check your brake booster.

Nice, wheels look just like the ones I had on my first 240Z, Shelby 5-slots painted black with polished lip.

Many modern air bags have a 2-stage deployment, based on seat position.

Every dyno result you see is likely from a chassis dyno (to the wheels), unless it was on an engine dyno (e.g. Rebello). It's also completely useless to compare numbers from different dynos. Extrapolating "crank" numbers from chassis dynos is equally useless. I've seen as much as 50-60hp swings from the same car, with absolutely no changes made besides it being on a different dyno. A good example is an FC RX7 that came through our shop and pulled 125whp. At another dyno, it hit 175hp. That's a 40% difference!

Dual Weber DGV carbs are inferior to the original SUs. Now DCOEs (what Ermish is likely familiar with) are a different story. If I were you, I'd track down a set of round top SUs, or triple Weber DCOEs if you're feeling adventurous. *Shameless plug* FWIW, I'm the EFI/Carb tuner at WORKS Motorsports in Sonoma. If you're nearby, you can consider bringing the Z here for any work you need. I've been playing with Zs for over 7 years.

Sounds like a vacuum leak/tuning issue.

Martin never implied the rod on the left would have a shorter throw, where did you deduce that from? I think you initially confused the issue when saying that the shifter on the right will have a "longer throw".

I highly recommend going to a lightweight flywheel while you're in there. The Fidanza is a nice unit, well worth the price IMO. I'm using a 10lb Fidanza and OEM-replacement clutch behind my L28 (0.020" over with flat-tops, shaved P90 @ 10:1 comp, healthy cam, triple 45s, etc). The break-in period went well, we'll see if the clutch holds up when I actually tune the thing. The lightweight flywheel reduces rotational inertia and makes for smoother, less slippy shifts. I know Matt (Lazeum on HBZ) is running a stock clutch behind his hot L28 as well and it seems to be holding up. If it's not necessary, then what's the point of buying a pricey "performance" clutch? That's the question I asked myself. I was interested in finding out how well an OEM clutch would hold up to a setup like this. I used Exedy BTW, they are a common OEM for many Japanese cars.

Martin is correct, the rod on the right will have shorter throws. The shift rod movement required to engage a gear is a constant. The longer arm will move the shift rod more per degree, thus the shorter throws. This is how short-throw shifters typically work...

Yes, that's the gland nut P/N. AJUSA was able to source them for me and were awesome to deal with. Another HBZ member recently bought the same stuff and they were able to get it all for him. Hurry, the inserts may still be on sale @ $132/ea! I have not installed them yet and have heard that you may need to slightly shave down the threaded portion of the gland nut in some cases. If you don't plan to lower your car much, you can use the stock housings. All you need to do is take the appropriate measurements and cut a 1.5" OD pipe to use as a spacer, such as what Tokico does for their rear inserts.

I'd love to do 128 sometime, I wanted to take it on the way home but it was not in the books. Thanks for the tips, Dave! And it still is! The roads around Petaluma are fantastic although some have gotten a bit run-down. There are some great Abalone diving spots along the coast as well...

I recently got new P30-0032 Bilsteins (VW Rabbit) for my Z, along with new gland nuts that fit. Search HybridZ, the info is in there somewhere. I know I posted the part numbers and source in my build thread, "Leon's Other 260Z". Looks like the HBZ server is down right now so I can't link you...

Nice, Hwy 20 is a blast! That is, if the slow movers pull over or you go at off-peak hours. We camped at MacKerricher a month or two ago, it's a beautiful area along with the rest of Northern CA.

Nicely done Captain! Damn. That's why I've always used scissor jacks underneath metal ramps if I'm ever working underneath them.

Yet another great idea! As long as I have some momentum before hitting the wood, I typically don't have issues getting up on them. With that said, rossiz makes a good point, and most of the time I work on my cars at the shop anyway where I have access to lifts and whatnot.

Awesome find Steve and Captain!

Exactly! I have to do that with the Z and even my bone-stock S2000. It just adds one step to the process, you get used to it.

Some chunks of 2X4.

Welcome! Good to have another SF Bay Area member.

You can do a leak down test but those compression numbers aren't awful. I bet some valves are just not sealing as well as the others. If your oil consumption isn't the rings, it could be the valve stem seals, an item that gets replaced during a head job.

Thumbs up for the thread title!

Sure, you can bolt on throttle bodies and having something nice to look at, but to make it all actually work is certainly not plug-and-play...

Back on point, I've heard good things about the Patton Machine stuff and Megasquirt is a great way to go for a standalone. This is not a plug-and-play project. There is much research ahead of you...

None of the above. The "SUs" that came on Z-cars aren't actually SUs, they are Hitachi HJG46W (USA round tops) or HMB46W (USA flat tops), the design being licensed by SU. They're colloquially referred to as SUs because that's where the design came from, Nissan called them both SUs and SU-type in the FSMs.