Zedyone_kenobi

Will do, let me know what you may be interested in...or are you looking for recommendations. Eiji is a great guy. Really allowed me to enjoy the whole process

THE 4x8 sander is great, but you still need to check the flatness. Even though it was a flat sander, there is no guarantee that even pressure was applied across the intake. You should find some kind of trustworthy flat surface, and take some feeler gages to see if there is any uneven surfaces.

I did not say it was nonfuncitonal, but after 42 years, it probably is not all that spot on any more. By the time we get these cars, lots of things have 'changed' since new.

Okay buddy I have been thinking. I would like you to try to remove that regulator. I know you said it was putting out 1.5 liters smoothly, but that was with zero backpressure. Regulators require backpressure to work. What we do not know is how it is metering fuel with that electric pump AND that regulator. I would like you to try to run with a different regulator maybe. I am still not convinced it is not fuel related.

I have not read all of this thread, but what about a non parallel intake? While the carbs are off, why not try a new manifold? I can ship you my polished SU manifold? NO cracks and perfectly flat if you like.

DOT 4 fluid for sure.. But if you are not going to occasionally track the car DOT 3 is perfect. Just get a good brand name and you are set. also, invest in some speed bleeders.. you will thank me later.

Congrats and welcome to the club. My advice is to take a good look at all the wear items. Bushings, belts, brakes, mounts, etc. Get the car safe first. I would not worry about the engine too much. Likely an engine with 200k that is running well, will keep running well for a while anyway. It has reached a point of stability and 'seasoning' Also, a complete fluid flush would be a good idea... coolant, oil, BRAKE FLUID, trans and diff would be a great start to your rejuvination. It will also get you familiar with the car at the same time. one last thing. T-tops are very cool. Time for your son to grow a stand alone mustache!

I am looking forward to it. Just a shame as I have 300 dollars of idle jets in my carb kit right now that could be rendered obsolete. Man, just bought my jackets and my 28 thousanths inserts, but 30 dollars shipping!! OUCH. these things can fit in an envelope!

The OEM guage is notorious for not reading accurate. I had a brand new datsunspirit engine installed in my Z and it was running great, but when I came to a stop it read very close to zero. I bought a new sending unit, removed the crappy pigtail going to the sending unit. Cleaned and soldered all the connections. But prior to hooking everything back up, I hooked up a simple mechanical gage to it and it read 25 psi at idle fully warmed up with 10w30. So the OEM datsun gage read 0 or close to it, but a new autometer mechanical gage read 25. Do not get too worried. IF you must know, buy a simple mechanical gage and test it to give yourself some peace of mind. But I bet it is a combination of the sending unit combined with a crappy OEM gage.

I have not had a chance to drive it yet, but it is set dead on 13 Deg BTDC. I will take it for a drive sometime this weekend if I can get some kid free time... I called up Mallory and they said they have never heard of this before, and that I am the first... Great.

Thanks!!! I am about to drop an order for 6 jackets and 6 inserts.. thinking of going with the 28 thousands insert as that is about equal to 60F9 which I currently run and am fairly dead on with AFR

I know if them, I know of the yahoo group that he inhabits, but I will be damned if I can find his online store.

I have been wanting to get my vents redone lately.. It would be a good time to do that if I could just get that darn dash form you know who!!

Well some interesting news on this topic. I checked my timing today after doing nothing but replacing the ignition module. I had severe pinging last time I drove it, and no wonder. At 900 rpm, I was sitting at 21 degrees BTDC!!!!!!! Again all I did was replace the ignition module on the Mallory. I have no idea why it would effect timing so much. I had it set at 14 BTDC, but just replacing the module the tolerance stack up and module delta equated to 7 degrees more change in timing. Crazy

I may look into picking up a 280Z dizzy. Now is the curve from your 280Z dizzy OEM, or do you rely on your MSD box for the ignition curve?

I am going to check the timing when I get home hopefully. It should be 14 ° BTDC at 1000 rpm. It should be 31 ° BTDC at 2800 rpm. I will let you know if it shifted. IF that is not it, then I will put some good gas in it, as that 92 may be exasperating the problem. It is already on the ragged edge with 93 octane. That 92 is not doing it any favors....

Strange thing happened on my way to the car show this weekend. This was the first time I drove the car since I installed the new ignition module. The car was pinging like crazy. If I was as low rpm in 3rd or 4th just giving it moderate gas would make the engine ping like mad. This had never happened since I recurved my dizzy long before the rally. But the first drive after the new ignition module I get it all over the place Now, this would seem to indicate that there is significant difference between one ignition module and another. Yet another sign that Mallory quality control seems to be a bit shakey.

Still to put all that work on the paint an interior and then leave the engine the way it is boggles the mind. These are not hard engines to make look good. The are relatively free of stuff, and yet, his looks so cluttered and confused. Having said that, if the body is truly rust free it could be a great starting point if all it needs is some cosmetic surgery

That was just hilarious... had to keep watching!

14x7.5 What a crazy size!!!! That is awesome

I want to disagree with Wade kindly. I love carbs and SU's or webers are easy as pie to live with if they are in good shape. I would not be scared of any carbureted car. Now fuel injection...that is some voodoo man!!!!

So you just casually installed a flywheel? along with changing you oil Hahaha. There is a cam on the actuator arm of your Holley. The accelerator pump arm that rests on your accelerator pump rides on this cam. When you give it gas, the cam lobe rotates and presses this arm down, which in turn raises its other end to push the diapham attached to your front fuel bowl. This change of volume pushes fuel through your discharge nozzles located on top of your carb and sprays fuel into the venturies. If that arm is not adjusted right, you are creating a lean spot when the accelerator is pushed. with the car off you can check for clearance. That arm should just barely touch the acclerator pump cam. IF the holey is worn out, you may have a bad pump spring or diaphram.

That is so hard for me see. I have to save it. Does anybody have a platium card and the number to pelican parts

OH man, GTV's are one of the VERY few cars I would sell the Datsun for....I love them.

That does look like fun man! Get one before they become polluted with Chrysler engineering.