beandip

When you lift the piston of one carb you are disabling it and testing the other carb to see if it is set too lean or too rich. If it is to rich then the engine will continue to run rather smoothly if it dies then the carb is to lean. adjust accordingly and then repetet the test on the other carb. If the carberator is adjusted properly the engine should continue to run but stumble when the other piston is raised. Usually a starting place is the adjusters turned counter clock wise about 21/4 turns from the stop. Hope this helps .

you can run the secound cable through the dash and have it end above the brake peddle out of the way , this way you wont need to crawl under the car.

Texaz , I think that you will either need to find a certified welder as I did or fine a true body shop that builds hot rods or custom cars . The other shops are just parts changers not really body and fender people. Just a tip , If when you get the floor pans in hand and if you are going to cut out the floor yourself , the welder cannot weld rusted metal. The sheep metal is so thin to start with and if rusted it just burns away and sparkels. If you are in need of the rocker pannel and the front area of the where the front end support attaches back to the frame, $ 2500 is expected . This is the vary reason that we here on this club site warn buyers to be careful of the rust and it's need for repair. This is a lot of work and vary time consuming. This is major repairs.

I have a '73 also and wanted to install a sway bar. What you need is a swaybar from a early '74 260 . My 240 shows a build date of 8/73 and must have been one of the last '73 built . The early bar you need is shown on page 83 at the bottom of the latest Victoria British catalog. It has bends that allow it to clear the diff. .:classic:

DONT BOTHER WATCHING FOR TRAFFIC , BECAUSE IN HUSTON NO BODY DOES ANYWAY

when you raise the piston of the rear carb and the engine still runs smoothly it is because the front carb is way toooo RICH.

The Golden Gate is up for sale at a great price !

I bought a Maxama brand new in '80 and it had a 240 engine . Factory said to retorque the head at 1K . Might just as well .

where are you in vancouver? I have a friend that lives off of 99st and I live in beaverton if that helps anny

yup. We should just set a date and time at a local watering hole and see who and how many are interested. Mc Minimins has pubs all over the place and they are not roudy or runchy and have good food. What do you think sports fans . GaryROFL

what are you looking at as for miles on the engine? 10w30 is the recommended oil , you could go with 20w40 but I wouldent go any thicker. Thicker only limits oil passage and lub. Since you have just started the engine after it has been setting , have patience and drive it a while before you start tearing in to it . Of cource it wont hurt to do a compression test or a leak down test. that will tell you alot . When you changed the oil , what did the old oil look like? Was it black and thick ? Now that you change the oil and driven it some what does the oil look like now ? Is it still clean after a 100 miles or is it dirty already. My Wife's camery just turned 100,000 mi and when I change the oil , which is every 3K , I can check the oil at 1000 miles and it is still clean to the point that I need to hold it dip stick to the light to see the oil on the stick. The same on my 240 engine only it has more miles on it and it is a little dirtyer . So if you have a dirty eigine and low compression you most likely and looking at a rebuild. The best of luck . Blue smoke does sound like rings , if only at start up I would think valve guide seals.

Zed findings makes the parts for MSA . I just replaced the floor on the passanger side of my '73 with floor from Zed findings . Charlie Osborne is the owner . He builds first class parts . I am afraid that he isn't local . Canada. when you contact him he will give you prices including shipping and any other costs. Good luck I hope you can weld sheet metal.

I bought a '81zx engine awhile back and it has a fitting like you describe . The engine is out of the car and not at my house . I 'll check tomarrow and see if there is any numbers. I have been debating weather or not to use it because I dont think that the larger filter will fit. this engine also has a different starter that is gear driven has any one seem one of these ? the only numbers that I can find are in the inside where the filter spins in . 335 and that's it.

You guys have helped me alot here , and I am grateful . Again Thanks. the old guy :classic:

I finely started to reassemble the ol' blister . One thing I want to pass on , I was using the mariene clean on the inner fender , I have the fenders removed. there is a pannel that is just infront of the door that makes a chamber that the water draines from cowel . On the driver's side the pannel leaves a 1/4" gap that allowed water and debris to enter from the wheel area. There is also a large drain that dumps the water from the cowel into the cavity of the fender in front of the door , this is an area that debris collect and hold water , this area is seen as a rust prone area and is the front of t he rocker pannel. I am installing a 45deg pvc pipe fitting and a section of large vynal tubing from home base , to run from the cowel drain down to the bottom of the cavity and drain . This is to clear the water and debris from the cowl area. :classic:

Jeddi you have done it again ! great!

I have been told that some of the Jags. had used copper fuel lines , I have no experience with british cars but this is what I have read. since you are in europe I just thought that this might have been an option to you, but dident want you to try common copper tubing. As was stated above this line is soft and will easily crack with vibration. The lines that Jaguars use must be of a different alloy or not really copper at all , in any case use steel. I have read some real wonders on this web site , every thing from using brake fluid in the SUs insted of oil , to removing the fuseable link in the main power line to the starter. :classic:

I am sorry but I don't agree with pennyman. The floor pans and the rocker pannels are part of the structureal members of the car. The safety of the car depends on the strength of this sheet metal . It is one thing to seal off the gaps for leaks and air coming in but sticking the car together with screws , pop rivets and tar is scarry. I dont often disagree with posts here and usually just pass on , but I dont want nubeys to get the wrong impression of what can be done safely . I know I will get some flack here but I call them as I see them . my 2c s

This most likely has been bantered about at nausium, but please ihave a question . Falkin tires show that they have 205/65 14s. Has any one run these and if so do you have a clearence problem? I am running 14" turbin wheels that have been on the '73 since new, and I want to keep them . I just want better traction for cornering and stopping. The 195/70s are not cutting it and I am looking for some im provement . I am open to suggestions so help if you can . I dont do auto cross or any track stuff but want performance for mountain roads and stopping power on the freeway. had a scare recently and was dissapointed in the traction of my present tires. I have stock brakes on my 240 that are in good shape and I just smoked the tires stopping and am not happy with the results. Help me if you can. gary

One thing that was not mentioned is that the anti freze acts as a anti rust also. this is what the 50/50 mix does for you . If you replaced the thermostat I hope you used a factory origional one , and put the vent hole toward the driver side . I am glad to see this addressed in the latest issue of SPORTS Z Magazine.

With out looking it up I cant remember the exact ammount the systime holds and it will most likely depend on the year to some degree. I use one gal of antifreeze and fill the rad to the neck of the radiator , any excess will pass by the cap into a recovery bottle . Just watch the level for a while as there will be some air that may be trapped in the engine that will come out in time and you will need to refill some. The latest Sports Z magazine just did an article on this stuff .

That is good to hear ! I was going to worn you not to use copper line in its place. I know some have and it is dangerous if it isnt the proper stuff. I can imagine that used fuel lines would be hard to fine over there . Did you get the blockage out of your line after you removed the wire ?

It's not that tuff to pull the shaft, I would do it just to be sure.

Dont be too optomistic about reparing the rust . This could be three times more to repair than the cost of your car . Be careful and really check under the floor mats and under the battery. Check under the car and look at the floor pans for rust , check for any bubling of the paint in the area just forward of the doors down at the rocker pannel area , likewise just to the rear of the door down low. If you do find rust or bubbles in the paint ,which is rust from the inside coming through, you need to make a decision . Either walk away and treat it like it had herpies , or promise your self that you will just drive it like it is untill it drives no longer. Rust in these areas I have described is VARY COSTLY to repair . I know this is not what you want to hear but it is the facts.