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beandip

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Everything posted by beandip

  1. beandip replied to Ed's topic in Body & Paint
    I guess I am tacky . I dont think you can remove it and save it. I carefully masked it off and you must look vary close to see that it was done . I would like to be able to save the ones on the hood and air cleaner but I am afraid there going away. How cold is it ?? Have a good one, Gary:classic:
  2. send a email to phred , he is a member here . This guy does heads for race z engines .
  3. Carl It's good to see you on the club site , you have so much knowledge to share. Gary
  4. Having your mechanic is a good start if he knows Zcars. As was stated the mileage isn't as important as the rust devils. You negelected to post your location in your profile , its there for a reason. The value of these cares varies greatly depending on the location where you live. What is a piece of junk , parts car , in one area is a rebuildable driver in another. There are club members all over the world that are willing to have a look for you . My friend and I have done this for prospective buyers here in Portland in the past. And saved them time and $ on air fair . We dont charge anything , its for the love of the cars. I would think that there are a few of us that live in your area that would be willing to have a look for you. Gary:classic: Just a thought , fresh paint can be a red flag , BIG TIME , look vary closely under the foor mats at the metal of the floor. Check closely under the battery for any sings of rust. Dont be afraid to pock around under the floors with a screw driver for soft spots in the metal that are covered with undercoating. Look at the post here in the arcives.
  5. The 240s are the same . the 260 has a backup light that is different
  6. beandip replied to NR240's topic in Help Me !!
    nR 240 I am from the us so our cars are some what different . Do you have a vent line that runs to the front of he car from the tank? Does the fuel tank have a small outlet on the tank above the supply and return ports . On our cars there is a small pencil size port coming from the top edge of the tank in this area. If you do have this port and it is blocked off you can run a small line to the front of the car and up the firewall as a vent and maby connect it to a carbon tank or to the air cleaner for fresh air. Then use a NON vented gas cap on the filler neck. You only need a small vent line to supply air to the tank as fuel is removed from the engine. We have a valve mounted in the engine bay that is a one way valve that only allows air in and none out for this function. This is just a thought for you to look into for possabilities. My 2 cts.
  7. There are always some that will cheet there owm mother. seems like this is just one more of them. Why people seem to need to cheat and lie for no reason is beyound me. Fly , it will come back to you .
  8. Snake2 where are you in oregon ? I live in Beaverton if I can help let me know. If the car is all stock you most likely have flat tops and yes they are junk. Send me a email and I might be able to put you on to a set of carbs . I think a guy in Gresham may still have a set he will sell.
  9. beandip commented on NR240's gallery image in Miscellaneous
  10. do a compression test this will tell you something. I cant imagine anyone puting a competion cam in a tornado . There just too heavy. Check the compression and also look for vacume leaks .
  11. I secound the motion. I agree with all that carl said. I have gathered two extra sets of SUs over the years because I know that as time goes on they will become hard to come by and an affordable price. Especially as the 280s age and the electronics become more of a problem. Geting the video from Tharapy is a great bit of advise. :classic:
  12. It all comes down to three things . Money , HP , and torque. There is no magic about high rpms. Its where the engine builds the HP . You can install a cam in the L-28 and it will make the hp at any RPM you think you need. It all costs money and with high HP , the mileage goes down. If you want a good mileage car to drive on the hiway go back to the stock engine weather it is the 280 or the 240 . I have been gitting 23 mpg with my L-24 . I doubt vary much my built F-54 will come close to that , but it will make a lot more hp. Gary my 2cts
  13. To me it looks like it has too much bulk , like some one else said it looks like a snow plow. I agree that it might look ok on a 280 so the large bumpers could be elininated. Could the white color make it look larger than it really is ? :classic:
  14. If you keep your finger over the spark plug hole and turn the engine over as I said , with a socket wrench , when the piston comes up on compression stroke you will feel the air blowing your finger off the hole. HELLOW
  15. My '73 240 had a 180 in it and I swaped in a R-200 and used the 180 half shafts . They had the flanges , just be sure to keep the correct shafts on the correct side they are different lingth.
  16. First thing, remove all the plugs. Use a socket on the crank pully and turn the engine over while holding your finger over the s plug hold . Y ou will feel when the piston comes up on the compression storke. Then remove the dist cap and where the rotor is now pointing this where #1 plugwire goes. adjust the rest of the wires to the fireing order. Start the engine and set the timing. Then ballance and adjust the carbs . Then check the timing after the carbs are set . To do all this right check the valves for correct adjustment and adjust as necassary , then the timing then the carbs then check the timing again . When you are tuning the engine to save yourself a hell of a lot of grief , work on one thing at a time ! This way when the engine is acting up you know what it is the thing you are working on. :sleepy:
  17. beandip replied to Zvoiture's topic in Polls
    I was borne and raised in So Cal and moved to Oregon 20 yrs ago . I dont miss it.
  18. Vary nice job , you did good. Gary:classic:
  19. Norm Simpers runs SUs and turns 107+ in 12.8 sec on street tires and 92 octane pump gas. Just passing on information. Tripples do look cool though .
  20. As for the insurance I cannot help you. Now if only the fender is bad. this is a days job to remove and replace the fender if you have not done it before. Then you have the paint to consider. The insurence co. should cover all the repairs If things are what you stated.
  21. I used to sell Rotella in 1955 . It was a great oil. Used in desels also.:classic:
  22. This is a ballancing act , because if you encrease the compression then you do need higher octain fuel. The same is true if the timing is advanced . This one of the reasons emissions require retarted timing and low compression and our fuel is now low octain. Premium fuel used to be 110 octane and some engines had over 10 to 1 .that was in the late '60s. The '70 --'72 Z had rather high compression . From then on the compression was lowered to the 8s. This is one of the reasons raising the compression helps these engines make HP. That and they are all high geared . It may sound cool to have a car that will go 130MPH , but if the rear end was changed to a 370 or 390 the car comes alive at driving speed . Some thing to think about. My 1 1/2 c. Gary
  23. I dont know about our early Zeds but my early Maxama had a tool bag with open end wrenches and a screw driver and a pair of pliers . Sorry I dont know the UK terms for these items. My '73 240 has decals on the doors showing the jack and chocks and how to store them. I dont know if this of any help or not. Gary:classic:
  24. A while back , maby 2 yrs ago , I was surfing the web and looking up all sorts of things . I came accross an independant resurch site that had tested about 10 different brands . Some I had never heard of . Some I remember were Quaker State , Penzoil , Castrol with gtx , Kindel , Royal Purple . There were others but these were the ones that showed toward the top of the "pile" . They went in to the contents of the oils , both good and bad , the temp breakdown the amount of ash in the oil , the lubercating quality the different detergents , a whole battery of tests and compairing of products. The results was a suprise to me and the two that were at the top and both were almost the same was # 1 Quaker State 2. was Castrol GTX they were clearly at the top and 3. valvoline . They did test a blended sinthetic , honestly I dont remember how it rated. I do remember it was not at the top. I have been driving my own cars for over 49 years and for ablut 40 of them I have been using Quaker State and still do. This research site remember was INDEPENDANT. I know this will sturr up a hornets nest of posts form members . I am just passing on some informaton, by the way . During the years of driving some of it was on the drag strip so no all was on the streets. My 2c Gary
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