beandip

I know this is along a different ave , but after you pressure test the systime , check the timing. If retarded it can cause over heating . Another thing did you retork the head bolts since the installation ? You might check and redo them even if the pressure test shows it is ok. I dident and was told to after my Maxama reached a certain milage , cant remember now what it was , I think 5000 miles maby less . anyway I blew a head gasket . After that was repaired I retorked the head at 500 miles and never had a problem. Gary

Seems to me that a member was looking at a car in Fl recently that had that stuff in the engine bay . They shot it in to cover the rust in the batt area and the area below it . Look vary closely . Personally I would pass from the start. to large of a red flagg for me/

HAY ! WATCH THE OLD GEEZZZZZERS CRACK. I will be 66 Valintines day.

use a little nonhardining lok-tight

here is a great web site that will answer this question and many more for up grading the Z geocities.com/zgarage.2001/ you will find performance , info on carberation , ignition, diff and ratios and what years had what. Welcome , Gary

Datto , sorry to tell you but you cannot cut corners here. Mariene clean that they sell is not just a soap or detergent, that washed off then the Metal ready in important to treat the rust and it does combine with the residue of the cleaner , If the surface is not treated correctly the POR vary likely will peal off. If POR is to be painted over with a top coat , do it while the finish is still tacky. if allowed to cure , it must be sanded. Which is not easy because the POR is so hard, and or painted with ticoat primer . Ticoat primer has a solvent in it that will allow it to bond to the POR , then the top coat of your color can be shot and it will stick . Regular Paint will not stick to POR . I used it extencively on my Z and so far am pleased with it. As stated before , on skin it really stecks , clean off while wet with thinner .Lac. thinner Aceatone works fine.

Back in the '70s I was on the fire dept in LA and on rescue. A guy tried to kill him self by shooting himself in the head with a SPEARGUN , for Gods sake. It entered the skull about five inches above his right ear and exited just above the left ear . The only complaint he had was the tip of the speer was poking him in the shoulder. As a side knote he survived the sujury and 2 weeks after discharged killed himself.

Check any way because Your car was wired for one and a PO may have installed one. Just crawl and look , it's just forward of the tank where the fuel senser is and the fuel lines exit and return to the tank. It's a cylinder about 1 1/2 '' in dia.

Woh, Let's start from the beginning here in setting the carbs. First thing , turn the mixture adjustments all the way up, counter clockwise to the stop. Then back them down 2 1/2 turns that is clockwise. Start the engine and let it warm up COMPLETELY. Then after the engine is warmed up to temp , feel the water hoses , wait untill they feel hot to the touch , dont just look at the gage. Then set the idle to about 900 RPM . Now use the uni-sun and ballance the air mixture. Keeping the idle consistant now start setting the mixture. With the engine running stick your finger inthe throat of the front carb. and lift the piston , this disables the carb and the engine is running on the rear carb. If the engine dies the mixture is too lean , if it continues to run and doesn't just barely then then it is rich. If this test shows the engine dying then turn the mixture adjustment on the REAR carb clock wise 1/4 turn. Now repeat this with the other carb disableing the rear carb and adjusting the front one. At this point check the timing , since you have been working with it as well . I set mine at 10 d BTDC I have the same dist. Go back to the carbs and readjust the air ballance . then varify the mixture. When satisfied dial the idle to 750 . Now when you ''blip'' the throttle to full open and closed QUICKLY and you get a backfire from one of the carbs , richen that one 1/8 richer, it's a ''lean pop'' . Repeat again untill this no longer happens. All the best. Gary Hope this is or help.

You might look at the tec section and serch for SUs and adjusting SUs . Good info there . I still think the three screws you will find to be a good change. Ask around about the SM needles also. Gary

One more thing , when you just use the little filter . You are venting the blow by into the engine bay . If you have ANY air leaks in the car you will smell the fumes. This is another reason this was vented into the air cleaner.

This is a little basic , but , wouldent a small ammont of JBWeld hold if the parts were cleaned well first. I have used this stuff to repair a prop on a ski boat after hitting a rock and it held for the trip. Worth a try.

The only real problem with oiling the cylinders is you can foul the plugs on restart. The danger is if too much liquid is in the cylinder it wont compress and if the other ones fire you could bend a rod or other wise damage the engine . The small ammount you are using is no problem. You wont harm the bores either. Oiling the cylinders once is enough and turning the engine is not necessary for only a winter storage.

Could it be that some times the engine is cold and on a cold start . and another time it is warmed up and the idle is as set.

Do you have any RX-7. in oz? If so see if you can find a early '80 and pull the electric pump. Here from a bone yard they are around $15.00 and will work really well. Then just block off the port in the head. They pump 4psi.

I have been using all sorts of air tools and also just finished painting the Z and what I am using is a De Vilbiss 5 horse 30 gal. and have not one complaint of running out of air. This is my son in laws unit as mine is smaller and wont do the job. I would buy a verticle model though , takes up much less room . I find that the die grinders and 1/2 '' impact wrenches use the most air. . My 2 cts Gary

YOU BET ! FOR THAT ONE I WILL INSTALL AN AMP ! That one you liked huh Carl.

when you say '' it wont even turn over '' that means , the engine will not revolve when you try to start the car. I think you ment it wont even start. This is completely different. I am only commenting on this beause you are new. By the way welcome. Gary

If you had that much slack in the chain you would hear a hell of a lot of noise with it slaping all over the place . However it would only be for a moment.

Great stuff but IT STINKS TO HIGH HEAVEN.

This exactly what should be done after a long term storage . Plus put a little oil in each cylinder before the storage period. I really doubt that a readable pressure can be seen spinning it on the starter only . I wont run a starter longer than 15 sec. at a time. But that just me. Gary

I just like the sound of the engine and dont really need anything else. In fact I dont have a radio in the Z. In my truck I listen to country mostly.

Just for the record. I was commeting on a 2 month storage question. This is NOT a long term storage in my view. Adding stablizer to the fuel I know wont hurt anything but for this short of a time , unnecessary. Sure you can keep the car in a heated and moisture controlled invirement covered and sealed from all light and only drive it when the weather is 75deg and clear. What ever floats your boat.

Sounds like the thrermostat stuck closed and was not allowing any flow of water thus keeping the colder water around the temp senser to the gage. For all of us , it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the temp gage as your engine warms up as in this case if not cought in time the over heating can be vary damaging. This can happen at any time to any of our cars and trucks. As to the lag time when starting , sounds like the key switch may have a contact problem . Either corrosion or wear . I doubt vary much weather it made any difference weather the car was being driven or parked for the heating problem you had. Now for '' storing '' the car for a couple of months . I would just disconnect the battery , thats all. A vary good thing to do in any event if the car is not going to be driven for a few months is to change the oil and filter and drive the car for a minum of 45min to completely warm it up and dry everything out and charge the batt. Fill the gas tank and then park the car . Disconnect the batt. That is it. Depending where the car is to be parked , concider mice or rats , they love to build nests and chew up things. While I have my inboard boat and travel trailer put up for the winter , I pull the batteries and charge them once a month. Full gas tanks will collect little moisture, when empty or nearly so they can sweat and the water will rust the tank. 2 months is not long, 6 or longer is a different matter. Gary